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| Hello, that is considered one of our (nearly) each day tastings. Santé! |
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December 11, 2024
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Caol Ila in Abundance, Half Two
Right here we’re once more with a second and remaining batch of Caol Ila. We’re as soon as extra anticipating very shut scores, as Caol Ila is such a constant and flawless malt. All of this, whereas retaining in thoughts the moderately unbelievable and surprising 2007 Caol Ila at solely 42.4% from Reduce Your Wolf Free (WF 90).
Advert for some Rivesaltes, Seventies. Is the impact the identical if you add it to a malt whisky?
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Caol Ila 7 yo 2017/2024 (46%, Douglas Laing, Provenance, LMDW Foundations, Barbados rum end, cask #DL18766) 
One may gently mock this little creation, questioning why a younger Caol Ila would have to be flavoured with rum on this method. However then, we keep in mind usually discovering sure similarities between some ex-pot nonetheless rums and Islay’s peated malts. So maybe it’s not such a compelled marriage in any case… Color: white wine. Nostril: it is a younger CI with a fatter nostril, barely extra rubbery, but additionally exhibiting extra diesel oil and olives, and consequently fewer purely coastal notes. Some lamp oil and a contact of tequila comply with. Mouth: oysters with olives, lemon with mezcal, and a clearly tarry facet. The salinity solely grows stronger and begins to mess around in your lips. End: I believed I would discover the rounder, softer facet of the rum, however no. Islay has kind of totally taken again management. Extremely-ripe pineapple notes linger within the aftertaste, although. Feedback: a barely tautological creation, as some would possibly say, however undeniably excellent. It appears as if the rum has toned down the immature edges of the infant CI a little bit.
SGP:566 – 85 factors. |
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Caol Ila 17 yo 2007/2024 (54.2%, Maltbarn, sherry cask, 177 bottles)
All the time these sensible labels that remind us of our not-so-distant youth (oh sure). Color: pale gold. Nostril: this one is way more acetic at first, nearly vinegary (cider vinegar), with additionally some spectacular notes of bière de garde. Then come seawater, seashore sand, oysters, apples, tar, and mercurochrome. It evolves, however not in a short time. With water: impeccable, on linseed oil and contemporary paint. Mouth (neat): fruitier but additionally extra mentholated, there’s extra of an ultra-mojito vibe on this one than within the DL completed in rum. Excellent, really, with beautiful bitterness too. With water: notes of bitter almonds and a touch of espresso espresso arrive. Very properly dry. End: lengthy, with loads of ashes this time. The aftertaste stays very salty. Feedback: a slight sharpness that I actually like rather a lot.
SGP:457 – 87 factors. |
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Caol Ila 11 yo 2013/2024 (55.4%, Woman of the Glen, Rivesaltes end, 299 bottles) 
Not notably impressed by the Rivesaltes. The Rivesaltes appellation (1100ha) is situated round Perpignan in French Catalonia, veeeery removed from Islay. There are a number of varieties of Rivesaltes wines (amber, grenat, tawny, rosé…), however our Scottish pals by no means specify which casks they use—do they even know themselves? These are fortified candy wines (VDN) the place fermentation is stopped by including impartial alcohol to retain among the pure sugar. In addition they produce dry rancios via oxidative ageing. Color: mild gold. Nostril: very fruity and candy, reminding us of some Port Charlottes we’ve loved. There’s not a lot room left for the distillate, let’s say. With water: a slight sulphury notice, however not bothersome. Boiled Jerusalem artichokes. Mouth (neat): there’s little question it’s well-made, however it’s simply very ‘trans’, giving the impression it may nearly be a VDN fortified with an Islay peater. Now there’s an thought… With water: it navigates between the 2 worlds. End: lengthy, trickier, ashy, candy, and barely bitter suddenly. Feedback: I’m certain this barely odd little dram has its aficionados. To every their very own.
SGP:765 – 78 factors. |
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Caol Ila 9 yo 2014/2024 (60.3%, The Whisky Trade, The Seasons, Autumn, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #808)
Autumn? About time, as winter begins on December twenty first. For as soon as, we’re not too late… Color: wealthy gold. Nostril: oh, apples, ashes, contemporary varnish, and equally contemporary marzipan. Mozart Kugeln. And I swear I even detect hints of contemporary mushrooms, identical to on the label. However don’t fear, not a hint of mustiness. I actually like this nostril up to now. With water: the varnish and almonds take centre stage, with a barely American vibe. In fact, it’s bourbon… Mouth (neat): pow, a punch to the chin. Extremely-clean, splendidly easy, candied lemon, ashes, smoke, an oyster, and a contact of glue. With water: the oak takes cost, however gracefully, and the candied lemon retains it firm. End: lengthy, with a number of spices, particularly nutmeg, curry, and paprika. Smoky, after all. Feedback: it’s amusing to see how a really energetic cask (or so it appears) can gently interact with a younger peated malt. Fairly a ‘creation’ (if you understand what I imply). Within the model of Dr. Invoice.
SGP:567 – 87 factors. |
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Caol Ila 9 yo 2015/2024 (54.9%, James Eadie, first fill amontillado European oak hogshead, cask #378487, 341 bottles) 
We’ve got fond reminiscences of yesterday’s ex-palo cortado. I’ve at all times discovered good amontillados and the rarer palo cortados to be comparable, although I haven’t drunk thousands and thousands of them. Clearly, I ought to have tasted this one proper after yesterday’s palo cortado—how embarrassing. Color: mild gold. Nostril: that is a lot much less marked by the sherry than yesterday’s, veering extra in the direction of manzanilla territory, with inexperienced apples, equally inexperienced walnuts, a touch of mustard seed, after which some salty touches that pair completely with this CI. It makes you surprise what comes from the whisky and what from the cask. Good continuum. With water: seawater, smoked fish, vin jaune. Mouth (neat): candy Suzy, how good is that this! Tremendous salty, with the fitting acidity, nervy like a younger colt, and full of candied citrus. The fusion of cask and distillate is unbelievable, with a powerful proximity of flavours. With water: spiced and salted candied fruits. End: lengthy, growing merely splendid bitterness. Feedback: highly effective however lighter than the palo cortado, much less oxidative, simply as sensible, maybe even a bit higher. Do they produce magnums?
SGP:467 – 89 factors. |
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Caol Ila 14 yo 2010/2024 (57%, Berry Bros. & Rudd, LMDW, oloroso sherry end, cask #311752, 265 bottles)
Color: amber. Nostril: right here we discover the dry facet of oloroso, someplace between miso soup and walnut wine, carbon mud, sautéed porcini mushrooms, after which, little by little, coastal components emerge, with shellfish and seaweed coming in waves (naturally, ha). With water: a platter of oysters with Tabasco and closely toasted rye bread. Mouth (neat): a bit brutal, medicinal, and bitter like some old-school cough treatment, although the ethanol appears to be the primary wrongdoer. With water: certainly, our citrusy pals come to carry every part up, including freshness and pleasure (don’t they?). Nonetheless, there’s a lingering sense of eucalyptus and honey cough lozenges. End: lengthy and lemony. Pickled lemons and walnuts. Feedback: lots of journey on this CI—it will need to have had a great battle early on in the course of the ending interval, however the result’s glorious, as anticipated.
SGP:466 – 87 factors. |
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Caol Ila 12 yo 2011/2023 (50%, Hunter Laing, Previous Malt Cask twenty fifth Anniversary, manzanilla butt, 750 bottles) 
These reproduction bottlings of the seminal Previous Malt Cask collection are actually fairly charming. Sony introduced out their Walkman once more too, didn’t they? As for the manzanilla cask, you possibly can think about how ex-ci-ted we’re. Color: pale gold. Nostril: beautiful, suave, with inexperienced walnuts, previous apples, citron, seawater, a contact of rubber bands, and… manzanilla. Assume La Gitana. With water: a seashore campfire, with somebody grilling sausages. Mouth (neat): some hints of spent matches at first, then a type of walnut mustard blended with seawater and ashes. Higher than it might sound. With water: that mild sulphury contact remains to be there, however it results in chalk and peaty smoke. End: lengthy, pretty sharp, with loads of ashes and… persona. The sulphury notice stays. Feedback: fairly a distinct beast ultimately. Slightly odder than I might have thought however I nonetheless actually prefer it.
SGP:356 – 83 factors. |
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Caol Ila 11 yo 2013/2024 (48.5%, Decadent Drinks, Equinox & Solstice, second fill sherry hogshead, autumn version)
As soon as once more, a launch for autumn, so we’re on schedule—even when it’s already -7°C outdoors right here at WF Alsace HQ. Color: gold. Nostril: basic, moderately light, near the OBs, with wafts of aniseed and mint, amaretti, ripe apples, and even hints of bitter cherries in alcohol. The sherry is delicate however not solely absent. Mouth: it feels stronger than simply 48.5%, fairly bitter and tough, to the purpose the place you would possibly wish to add two and a half drops of water. With water: it really works completely. A drop of pastis in seawater and lemon juice. Wonderful pressure. End: natural cordials, with extra vegetal pressure than in typical CIs. Bitter cherries return as properly. Feedback: don’t suppose an inexpensive bottling energy ought to cease you from including water.
SGP:467 – 87 factors. |
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Caol Ila 17 yo 2007/2024 (56%, Halcyon Spirits, cask #306807, 273 bottles)
Color: deep gold. Nostril: the cask appears to have been very energetic, as loads of cake and vanilla cream come to the fore at first, adopted by moist stones, cooked peas, new tyres, a number of whiffs of lilies (from a minimum of fifteen metres away), and eventually extra basic Caol Ila notes: seawater, shellfish, a contact of tar… With water: ashes extinguished with seawater dominate. No complaints right here. Mouth (neat): glorious, highly effective, compact, with pepper, candied lemon, ashes, and seaweed. With water: pepper, salt, miso soup, ashes, and tar set the tone right here. Very basic, very ‘Islay’; it feels a bit like being on the island’s southern coast. End: lengthy, closely ashy, with a touch of coal tar, and lemon bringing some zestiness to the aftertaste. A really, very faint, properly the faintest contact of sulphur proper on the finish. Feedback: a very beautiful beast.
SGP:567 – 87 factors. |
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Caol Ila 1994/2005 (43%, Jean Boyer, recoopered hogshead, 400 bottles)
A small CI we had in inventory, which I wished to convey out as a tribute to our good friend Jean Marie, former head of Jean Boyer, who left us far too quickly. We had by no means formally tasted it earlier than. Because the again label explains, these ‘recoopered’ hogsheads can show notes near new wooden, notably coconut for American oak or vanilla for European oak. Color: white wine. Nostril: lots of freshness after twenty years within the bottle, with whelks, almonds, candle wax, sunflower oil, mushy brine, and above all, very reasonable peat. It’s notably elegant, with nice gentleness – as Jean Marie was. Mouth: a lot livelier on the palate, beginning instantly on inexperienced olives, then evolving in the direction of boat gas and white pepper. And people old style kippers. The 43% ABV by no means feels ‘too low’. End: surprisingly lengthy and saline, additionally peppery. A contact of varnish, maybe from that ‘recoopered’ oak, then a return of these inexperienced olives we like a lot. Feedback: cheerio Jean Marie, what a powerful little Caol Ila.
SGP:566 – 87 factors. |
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One final one, and this time we received’t choose it at random, particularly after this avalanche of younger Caol Ilas since yesterday. In any case, we’re coming into the festive season…
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Caol Ila 31 yo 1983/2014 (48.7%, Signatory Classic, hogshead, cask #5300, 248 bottles) 
Color: mild gold. Nostril: an ode to time, each the time spent within the cask and the time within the bottle, even when it’s simply ten years. We’re handled to a moderately elegant medley of syrups and natural teas, flowers and small berries, all led by almonds and wild little black cherries. It’s an unfathomable subtlety, formed by the interaction of molecules through the years. I’m nearly sure that none of those aromas have been current when this Caol Ila was, say, ten or twelve years previous. In distinction, the smoke has vanished, swallowed by the entire or maybe transmuted. You usually discover that in older Islay whiskies. Mouth: Oh, that’s it, recreation over—that is one other dimension solely. It’s brimming with minerals and herbs, oils and fat, and flavours for which we don’t even have analogies (which supplies you a little bit of a break, fortunate you) … Excellent flavours that evoke nothing acquainted, unknown substances, molecules by no means earlier than tasted—presumably even a contact extra-terrestrial. In reality, some components would possibly remind one of many most interesting mezcals, and talking of which, we actually should do a full mezcal session on WF once more—it’s been far too lengthy. End: Excellent vegetal and vinous freshness (suppose nice white wines). Feedback: what’s the purpose of resisting?
SGP:464 – 93 factors. |
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What a lovely illustration of the work of time on a single malt whisky! These Caol Ilas age like positive wines, besides that none ever actually veer astray. In reality, I feel I’ve by no means tasted one which was really ‘out of line,’ and that’s saying one thing as we edge dangerously near 900 Caol Ilas sampled right here on little Whiskyfun.
It additionally jogs my memory of that depressing little joke value about two pennies:
“Hey Alfred, it’s been ages since I final noticed you!
– I do know, I advised my spouse I used to be like positive whisky, getting higher with age…
– And?
– She locked me within the cellar…”
I did warn you, didn’t I?
That’s sufficient Caol Ila for now, however initially of the yr, we’ll certainly be tasting our 900th CI.
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(Thanks, Jean Marie and KC!)
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