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| Hello, that is certainly one of our (virtually) every day tastings. Santé! |
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September 24, 2024
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A small field stuffed with high-quality Irish whiskies
We’ll begin with a Jameson, as a result of final time, the essential Jameson appeared as empty as an outdated coconut to us, and since it is solely truthful to offer it one other likelihood (although Jameson most likely has completely nothing to do with WF).
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New Boann Distillery (Boann) |
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Jameson ‘Caskmates IPA Version’ (40%, OB, Irish mix, completed in craft beer barrels, +/-2024) 
One would count on a number of aromas in right here, no? Presumably, the casks had been ready with IPA (from Franciscan Nicely in Cork), reasonably than used for precise ageing of the beer. Not too positive… Color: gold. Nostril: not precisely explosive, however certainly, there are significantly extra aromas than in the usual Jameson. Some hay, just a little contact of freshly reduce grass, then tangerines (the IPA affect, maybe?), apples, and a faint trace of potpourri and chamomile. Nonetheless, it stays pretty gentle. Mouth: gentle once more, however not disagreeable. As soon as extra, just a little tangerine, together with natural teas, rosehip, and presumably a contact of citrusy hops (Citra and the like), with a smidgen of ginger. End: brief, gentle, however clear. A touch of lemon liqueur. Feedback: that is clearly a step above the reasonably skeletal common Jameson (WF 60). Cheers to beer!
SGP: 431 – 76 factors. |
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We’re staying at Middleton.
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Inexperienced Spot ‘Completed in Château Léoville Barton’ (46%, OB, Irish single pot nonetheless, 2023) 
‘Celebrating a shared Irish heritage,’ it proudly states, and certainly, the ‘Barton’ of Barton & Guestier hailed from Eire in… 1725. The label additionally mentions that this expression ‘was completed in casks beforehand stuffed with wine from the famed Château Léoville Barton,’ which, in fact, may imply a variety of issues, however let’s press on. Color: gold. Nostril: initially, we’re in comparable territory to Jameson IPA, although this one’s a contact extra sturdy. There’s little in the way in which of aromas that will evoke the illustrious Second Progress of Saint-Julien, although that is no unhealthy factor, as we’re handled to pretty notes of ripe apples, plums, quince, and yellow melon. There’s additionally that attribute trace of copper cash, one thing usually present in these Irish whiskeys. Just a few freshly bloomed peonies too, which is reasonably charming. Mouth: very good, firmer than anticipated, with a real Irish character. There’s just a little clafoutis and Linzertorte in there, adopted by a return of hay, a little bit of cinnamon (in a cake-like manner), and a few greenish bay leaf. End: of medium size, with orange zest, a contact extra bay leaf, and even a touch of inexperienced pepper—may that be the Cabernet affect? Then, a little bit of marzipan and orange cake to spherical issues off. Feedback: I actually do like this one, and it’s not overly wine-influenced, which is a reduction. That mentioned, I believe I desire the common Inexperienced Spot at 40% (WF 85) by a small margin.
SGP: 551 – 84 factors. |
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Let’s keep just a little longer at Midleton…
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Redbreast 27 yo ‘Batch 5’ (54.6%, OB, Irish single pot nonetheless, 2024) 
The newest launch, ‘graced’ with a contact of Ruby Port, however I’ve little question that received’t detract from the splendour you’d count on from a 27-year-old Redbreast. Color: gold with a touch of apricot. Nostril: a beneficiant waft of outdated copper proper from the beginning, as if you happen to had been nosing an vintage nonetheless (and never one polished to a shine). Then comes peony and oleander – clearly exhibiting its kinship with Inexperienced Spot – together with, in fact, the famed mango, pink grapefruit, honey, and ripe cherries. Actually pleasant on the nostril. With water: only a whisper of coconut, posh face cream, and prickly pear… Mouth (neat): an absolute stunner, paying homage to historical single malts from a really outdated distillery a lot additional north. A large basket of tropical fruits drenched in honey, with a drizzle of caramel to complete. That’s about it. With water: winery peaches seem, however do go straightforward on the water, it’s not the strongest swimmer. End: not the longest, however very, very fruity, nonetheless on mango and winery peaches, and splendidly freed from any tough edges. Feedback: An impressive Redbreast, not as ‘crimson’ as you may suppose regardless of the Ruby.
SGP:641 – 90 factors. |
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Boann ‘Madeira Cask’ (47%, OB, Irish single pot nonetheless, 2024)
A brand-new distillery, and their first whisky, which I consider was launched on the Whisky Present in London. It’s nonetheless reasonably curious how each new whisky appears to get the wine remedy today, but when it helps the vintners, so be it. Moreover, Madeira, like sherry, isn’t fairly the identical as wine, is it? It’s fortified wine, in any case. The distillery sits on the east coast, neatly between Dundalk to the north and Dublin to the south. Color: straw. Nostril: pretty brioche and panettone notes, so suppose raisins and orange blossom, with a handful of yellow flowers, mirabelle plums, and a contact of pear. A little bit of grist within the background, hinting at its youth. It’s charming, pure, and well-balanced. Maybe a few walnuts, doubtless from Madeira. I imply from the Madeira cask, in fact. Mouth: I prefer it lots – orange juice, cassata, Christstollen, apple juice, with a splash of spiced honey (caraway, star anise), and that’s that. End: medium size, balanced, with a touch of candy bread, barley, and a really delicate rye and pepper observe within the background. Feedback: undoubtedly not a type of new whiskies thrown collectively with out care, ‘with a trowel’ as we are saying in French, if you happen to catch my drift. Actually a hit.
SGP:551 – 84 factors. |
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Waterford ‘Heritage Goldthorpe’ (50%, OB, Irish single malt, 6,500 bottles, 2024)
Nicely, we’re shifting from single farms/estates to single varietals, which is reasonably intriguing. Goldthorpe is a uncommon centennial selection, reintroduced by Waterford in collaboration with the Irish Ministry of Agriculture, apparently ranging from only a single small packet of seeds. There’s a pleasant Jurassic Park vibe to the entire thing, although presumably with far much less hazard concerned. Let’s see if the fracas of time might be felt within the glass… Color: white wine. Nostril: laborious to pin down, ought to’ve sampled the brand new make first. It comes throughout as pretty oily, with a beautiful citric profile, hints of chives, dill, lemon-mint, then some inexperienced melon and even a contact of Petit Manseng. With water: extra melon and lemon, a little bit of damp earth. Mouth (neat): begins off each citric and oily, then shortly ramps up right into a daring, natural character with an virtually mezcal-like high quality, although with out the smoke. It scrapes the palate a bit, however in probably the most nice manner! With water: it softens, as one would count on. End: lengthy, more and more lemony—completely pleasant. Feedback: it feels a bit unusual to sip on such a historic – and splendid – whisky as if it had been simply some other dram. Certainly, this deserves no less than a lecture, if not a complete seminar, delivered by some wild-haired, veteran college professors. Nonetheless, we completely find it irresistible—it’s cutting-edge… Historical past.
SGP:561 – 90 factors. |
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Individuals usually ask me what they need to accumulate. Nicely, this is an concept: whiskies distilled from historical grain varieties, corresponding to Bere, Chevalier, Golden Promise, Hunter, and even Goldthorpe barley! After which, in fact, there’s biodynamic whisky…
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Waterford ‘Biodynamic Cuvée Luna’ (50%, OB, Irish single malt, 2024)
An intriguing mix from three farms practising biodynamics. We had a mushy spot for the primary launch again in 2021, Luna 1.1 (WF90). I do know some biodynamic winemakers in Alsace who swear you may see the wine shifting within the barrels with the phases of the moon. However let’s style this new Luna with out consulting any anthroposophical calendar to test if it’s the perfect second… Color: white wine. Nostril: completely pristine, like a barely cooled fruit-studded brioche, paired with a fragile contact of sentimental spices. I discover this exact simplicity fairly beautiful. With water: a touch of Williams pear emerges. Mouth (neat): fairly completely different from the nostril, a lot fruitier, with a light-weight caramelised edge and even a little bit of smoke (closely toasted wooden). Excellent. With water: a maritime contact seems, a little bit of vanilla, and maybe a small glass of manzanilla (nuts, mustard, curry). End: carries on in the identical vein, with only a trace of apples within the aftertaste. Feedback: no level, nor even potential, to say whether or not this Luna or the Heritage is superior. I suppose the subsequent step is to develop Goldthorpe barley biodynamically.
SGP:551 – 90 factors. |
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I might additionally wish to strive a Dingle. We have now fairly a number of which can be completed in alien casks, in order that will likely be for later. Happily, we even have an ex-bourbon one for Kirsch Import.
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Dingle 2015/2024 (59.2%, OB, for Kirsch Import, Irish single malt, bourbon, 264 bottles) 
Color: white wine. Nostril: it opens with a particular triple-IPA vibe, bursting with citrus, fennel, elderflower, and a curious observe of younger Swiss cheese (Fribourg, maybe). There’s additionally a slight whiff of fitness center socks, or maybe that post-rugby third-half environment that we’ll have to work by way of. Let’s see the way it evolves. With water: no change, actually, possibly even heading a bit in direction of Parmesan territory. Mouth (neat): highly effective, earthy, and brimming with lemony zest, borderline uncooked tequila straight from the nonetheless. It is not like some other malt, really distinctive. If I had been Angus, I’d quote Disraeli right here, however alas, I’m not. With water: ah, now we’re speaking! Brilliant lemons, rhubarb, celeriac, and maybe a contact of agave, with a cheeky nibble of Gruyère making an look. End: nonetheless a bit mad, however for the seasoned taster, it’s an actual charmer. Or so I consider. Elderflower pops again within the aftertaste (St Germain, Hugo, that form of factor). Feedback: finest loved alongside a hearty fondue, be it Savoyard or Swiss. Or why not simply pour it straight into your caquelon? Actually, this one defies scoring, so do take all of this with a pinch of salt.
SGP:672 – 85 factors. |
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In all probability the precise reverse…
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Bushmills 20 yo 2002/2023 (54%, The Whisky Blues, Irish single malt, cask #11344, 212 bottles) 
The label seems to function Irish distillers doing a little pub crawling on a Friday night, although it’d simply as properly depict some Asian birds, maybe dancing cranes? Color: white wine. Nostril: an astonishingly pure and easy Bushmills. Bark, bananas, and apples. That’s it, and but, it’s the whole lot. With water: a contact of Irish meadow honey emerges. Mouth (neat): certainly, it begins out as a crisp, crystalline whisky, however quickly explodes into that unmistakably fruity profile. Papayas, mangos, bananas, blackberries, guavas, buttered pears, adopted by a handful of liquorice allsorts. You’ll discover I haven’t but talked about ardour fruit or citrus. For now. With water: properly, nonetheless no ardour fruit, but it surely turns into a contact rounder, virtually heading in direction of agricole rum. End: lengthy and leaning much more into that agricole rum profile. Nicely, I by no means! Honey and vanilla linger on the aftertaste. Feedback: joking apart, that is beautiful, even when it’s a bit ‘wham-bam’, as Bushmills might be.
SGP:740 – 89 factors. |
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The Lime Tree 20 yo 2003/2024 (52%, The Whisky Cask Firm, Tree of Life, bourbon, 205 bottles)
Again to Switzerland with this launch from TWCC, which we’re optimistic about primarily based solely on previous experiences with the model (what?). Let’s see if there’s any motive this wouldn’t be Bushmills. Color: white wine. Nostril: I concern it’s practically an identical to the earlier dram, although a contact earthier, with new notes of peanut butter and sesame oil. With water: immense. Fruits, peanuts, and a contact of putty. There’s your abstract. Mouth (neat): this time the citrus takes the lead and refuses to let go. Grapefruits, lime, yuzu, all drizzled with honey. Splendid. With water: peaches—stewed, in syrup, in liqueur, and eau-de-vie (be careful for that prussic acid). End: very fruity, honeyed, easy-going, and contemporary. Feedback: cautious, this Swiss magnificence is liable to some critical evaporation. You already know what I imply, don’t you?
SGP:751 – 91 factors. |
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I believe one of the tough issues for an inattentive taster to do is to differentiate, in a blind tasting, between a Bushmills and a Cooley of the identical age and from the identical cask.
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Cooley 23 yo 2001/2024 (55.2%, Liquid Treasures for The Antelope Macau, refill barrel, cask #144972, 265 bottles)
Color: pale gold. Nostril: properly, sure, it’s so very shut! Maybe a contact oilier and extra malty than a Bushmills, however actually, there are fewer variations right here than between a Mercedes-Benz from 20 years in the past and a Lexus from 15. With water: it diverges a bit extra, changing into tauter, livelier, virtually sharp on the nostril. Fairly pleasant, certainly. Mouth (neat): comparable impressions – the Cooley is a contact zippier, extra sturdy, with a bit extra lemony zing, although naturally the cask performs its half. With water: it slices proper by way of you. Concentrated lemon juice meets agave syrup. End: now fantastically taut, herbaceous – you would practically take pleasure in it with oysters. Feedback: nonsense I’ve been telling you, actually. Each whiskeys are magnificent, however in the long run, they’re reasonably completely different.
SGP:561 – 89 factors. |
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After all, we’re beginning to exaggerate, however “exaggeration” is certainly one of my favorite phrases within the British vocabulary. Come on, let’s preserve going.
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Irish Diamonds 21 yo 2002/2023 ‘Small Batch No.12’ (56.4%, Alambic Classique, sherry cask, cask #23081, 252 bottles)
Nicely then, we’re right here ultimately, aren’t we? The massive query—Cooley or Bushmills? Color: pale gold. Nostril: it’s gentler, honeyed, and whereas it ought to hail from Northern Eire, there’s no assure, naturally. Notes of banana jam, maple syrup, and splendidly ripe papaya and guava, adopted by one thing extra grounded—damaged roots, branches, a contact of orgeat and pistachio syrup… fact be instructed, we’re a bit misplaced in one of the simplest ways. With water: is that cane juice? Actually? And a contact of rolling tobacco too? Mouth (neat): wealthy and fruity, although there’s a caramelised edge with walnut cake and a little bit of kougelhopf—ah, that’s the sherry talking. With water: walnut liqueur, autumn leaves, extra tobacco… sherry once more. End: sherry all the way in which. Beautiful size with a bittersweet orange observe, ending on chocolate. Feedback: a correct self-sabotage state of affairs—how on earth can one inform Cooley from Bushmills at this age, particularly with all that sherry affect? That mentioned, it’s glorious.
SGP:661 – 87 factors. |
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Teeling 13 yo 2008/2022 (57.8%, OB for Ardour for Whisky, single malt Irish whiskey, PX end, cask #29639, 276 bottles)
I can’t fairly keep in mind if this classic hails from Cooley or Teeling—totally shameful, maybe I ought to simply begin a gin weblog as a substitute. Color: amber. Nostril: sherry takes the lead right here, with thick notes of chocolate, Ovaltine, walnut liqueur, devilled sauce, and pipe tobacco. It’s a bit jarring after the beautiful bourbon-inflected whiskies we’ve been having fun with right this moment. With water: glue and polish seem, and it turns bone dry, which is reasonably uncommon for PX, sometimes considered ‘dulce’. Mouth (neat): someplace between a younger Armagnac, walnut wine, a classic Maury, and double-distilled bitter orange liqueur. It virtually assaults the gums, and I’m barely exaggerating. With water: caramel, toffee, Japanese on the spot noodles, and a few fairly mad molasses. End: very lengthy, very thick, and actually fairly excessive. Feedback: totally a love-it-or-hate-it dram. Sherry within the excessive—finest fitted to whisky athletes or these with wild imaginations. Could possibly be unlawful in some international locations.
SGP:672 – 85 factors. |
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I believe, all in all, we’ve just about skilled the most effective of Eire right this moment. We’re not going to calculate it, however I’m positive the typical rating is large.
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 Test the index of all Irish we have tasted to this point
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