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| Hello, that is one in every of our (nearly) every day tastings. Santé! |
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September 11, 2024
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Fettercairn in nice numbers
About twenty-five years in the past, Outdated Fettercairn aka Fettercairn was scarcely accessible, and its fame was perhaps a wee tad mediocre. No quantity of rebranding appeared able to turning issues round.
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Nonetheless, as they are saying, a rising tide lifts all boats, and the house owners took full benefit of this to convey the model again into the highlight, notably due to the spirit’s daring character and the drive of Grasp Blender (and of the Universe), Richard Patterson, aka The Nostril. A lot in order that at this time we’ve determined to try to set a world document—probably the most totally different Fettercairn whiskies reviewed in a single publish (although not essentially in a single tasting session, we’re not mad). Are you prepared?
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Fettercairn 16 yo (46.4%, OB, 2023) 
The 2022 version had been fairly wonderful, so expectations are excessive. Color: gold. Nostril: that unmistakable walnut cake and candy mustard character comes by way of superbly, joined by bitter oranges and an surprising coastal contact – oysters, of all issues! Hints of tar and rubber are current, however far lower than in older releases, and in any case, that’s a part of Fettercairn’s allure. Mouth: wealthy, honeyed, thick, and delightfully spicy, with a delightful firmness. Chestnut cream, extra nuts, a contact of earth, a lightweight salinity, and maybe as soon as once more, a cheeky oyster. It’s actually excellent, although one would possibly suspect a few of this richness comes from fairly exuberant casks. End: lengthy, turning peppery, but nonetheless salty and honeyed, with notes of honey-lemon biscuits. There’s a return of that earthy component within the aftertaste. Feedback: for me, this has turn into one of many best middle-aged official bottlings round, and there aren’t that many at this degree, in case you ask me. Softer in comparison with the 2022 batch, with a contact extra bitterness. An incredible begin.
SGP:562 – 88 factors. |
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Fettercairn 2014/2022 ‘Warehouse 2 Batch 004’ (48.8%, OB, bourbon and Hungarian oak) 
These warehouse tales don’t at all times persuade, however by no means thoughts. This one incorporates 6% Hungarian oak (wow!), which is actually cheaper European oak, however because it’s petraea, it’s not half unhealthy. Color: white wine. Nostril: barley sugar and the sweetness of bourbon, with vanilla cream, then a beautiful floral contact of geranium and jasmine. Caraway and inexperienced walnut remind us we’re nonetheless in Fettercairn territory. Mouth: no, this is excellent certainly, and I promise you can simply mistake it for Ben Nevis. It’s unbelievable that they’ve allowed the distillate (very daring, let’s admit) to shine by way of, regardless of using energetic wooden. I feel it’s brilliantly achieved – they simply want packaging that feels a bit extra 2024, although. Proper, not my enterprise. End: lengthy, with notes of walnuts, candy mustard, ripe apples, clove, and a touch of juniper. Feedback: it’s higher than Batch 1 from the identical warehouse, these warehouses are one thing else! Although it nonetheless sits barely within the shadow of the magnificent 16-year-old.
SGP:562 – 86 factors. |
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Fettercairn 2014/2023 ‘Warehouse 14 Batch 001’ (51.2%, OB, bourbon and Scottish beer)
And right here we go, Warehouse No. 14. However what number of warehouses have they got at Fettercairn? This bottle is claimed to incorporate three forms of Scottish beer – pale ale, darkish ale, and stout. Unbelievable. Color: white wine. Nostril: it’s sweeter, youthful in spirit, with notes of apple and quince jelly, barley, banana, even a little bit of papaya… May or not it’s the yeasts from these Scottish beers doing their magic? With water: it tightens up a bit, however that’s not a foul signal. A well-mannered dram, we’d say. Hints of grist and limestone linger. Mouth (neat): actually excellent, with extra lemony notes. Pink grapefruit and a contact of sage. With water: it’s actually excellent – I’m repeating myself, however it’s! Cloved orange zest and roasted pistachios. You get the thought… End: pretty lengthy, very clear for a Fettercairn, although not with no little bit of texture. A return of honeyed mustard and walnuts within the aftertaste. Feedback: there’s nothing extra satisfying than watching a distillery evolve like this. Let me remind you, twenty years in the past, my pals wouldn’t contact it, by and enormous.
SGP:552 – 87 factors. |
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This time, it won’t be as straightforward for the IBs…
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Fettercairn 10 yo 2011/2021 (47.5%, Carn Mor, bourbon barrel, 1244 bottles) 
This one must be fully pure. Color: white wine. Nostril: pears and porridge, with touches of cardboard, recent wooden, and plaster. And, most notably, a complete stein of Weissbier. A touch of bitter almond and the standard mustard lurking within the background. Mouth: ultra-typical, certainly. As soon as once more, walnuts, mustard, bitter almonds, a contact of earth… Then it shifts in direction of cider apples and lemon zest. A stunning ‘nervous’ austerity right here. End: lengthy, turning peppery. Lemon peel, pepper, then a bit extra sweetness coming by way of. Feedback: very, very near the distillate, and in that sense, fairly wild. Good bitterness.
SGP:461 – 84 factors. |
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Fettercairn 2009/2022 (50.6%, Liquid Artwork, 140 bottles)
Color: pale gold. Nostril: very a lot in the identical type as its predecessor, although this one carries a bit extra cask affect, lending it a contact extra roundness, but it surely stays austere, distinctive, with a mustardy edge and filled with inexperienced walnuts, sourdough, and a whiff of outdated newspaper. There’s additionally a touch of bitter apples within the background. With water: it turns into chalkier, earthier, in different phrases, much more Fettercairn. Mouth (neat): this time we’re edging nearer to the wonderful official bottlings, with a beautiful physique and a salty-bitter-fruity combine, some honey, and amusing notes of white asparagus, all adopted by the signature Fettercairn pepper. With water: excellent certainly, with apples, mustard, inexperienced tea, bitter almonds, and walnut wine. End: lengthy, extra mineral, although there’s a touch of olive oil. Feedback: top-notch, although it makes you marvel, which warehouse did this one come from? Simply kidding.
SGP:562 – 86 factors. |
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Fettercairn 15 yo 2007/2023 (53.5%, Cadenhead, Rum Cask Matured, 240 bottles)
It’s true that Cadenhead bottles some beautiful rums, in order that they’ve most likely received a couple of empty casks readily available to fill with malt. Color: white wine. Nostril: that is fairly surprising, we begin with much more porridge and recent morning bread dough, alongside inexperienced walnuts and the ever-present mustard, earlier than a stunning Jamaican-like twist of tar, overripe bananas, and a contact of seawater sneaks in. With water: the unique distillate takes cost once more, so again to the walnuts and co. Mouth (neat): maybe much less exact than others, however presumably extra complicated. The walnuts are actually smoked, coated in tar, and drenched in a kind of salty, honeyed molasses. With water: it’s a full of life tango, reminding me of a Martinican rum aged in an Islay cask, the reverse scenario, which additionally labored fairly nicely (surprisingly). End: lengthy, extra lemony and maritime. A little bit of pepper and tar within the aftertaste. Feedback: there’s nearly a double-Fettercairn character to this at occasions. Properly achieved.
SGP:562 – 85 factors. |
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Fettercairn 14 yo 2007/2022 (54.4%, Oxhead Whisky Firm, Singapore, amontillado hogshead, cask #201506)
Color: gold. Nostril: this one leans extra in direction of oils—rapeseed, sunflower, sesame—although the acquainted notes of cardboard, chalk, and recent ink (new e book) are additionally again. There’s even a contact of greens, cabbage, leek… which I feel may be fairly ‘Fettercairn’ as nicely. With water: the distillate’s walnuts and the amontillado’s walnuts are thick as thieves. A lot of cement and chalk too. Mouth (neat): pure Fettercairn, nearly to the purpose of seeming peaty. Loads of paprika, pepper, lemon, and as soon as once more, cardboard, mustard, black radish, mead, with a slight soapy edge. With water: apple juice emerges, with some gin-like notes that verge on soapiness (not big gin followers right here). End: lengthy, compact, and a bit eccentric. Fairly the character. The mustard and walnuts proceed to sing loudly. Feedback: one other wild one.
SGP:562 – 84 factors. |
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Fettercairn 10 yo 2011/2022 (54.6%, Finest Dram, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #800355, 220 bottles)
We fairly like these labels—you can hardly be much less flamboyant. In these AI-dominated occasions, it’s a little bit of a aid. Color: white wine. Nostril: nearly nothing at first—only a trickle of limestone water, the faintest trace of apple juice, and a contact of grapeseed oil… and that’s it. You actually couldn’t be much less exuberant, particularly for a Fettercairn. We’re into that. With water: extra physique now, with satan’s sauce, honey, and walnut cake making an look. Mouth (neat): ultra-precise. Barley, paraffin, bitter almonds, walnut oil, horseradish, and a splash of seawater. With water: good. Now we’re in Ben Nevis territory. End: identical. A stunning acidic contact, with lemon juice and Muscadet. Feedback: a younger Ben Nevis in high-precision mode. Oops, sorry, a Fettercairn.
SGP:562 – 87 factors. |
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Fettercairn 12 yo 2008/2021 (52.9%, Whisky-Fässle, barrel)
It’s true, we don’t at all times want a great deal of particulars and superlative adjectives on our malt labels. Color: pale white wine. Nostril: nicely, that is very, very near the earlier one. A valuable modesty, with a little bit of apple, rubber, chalk, and sunflower oil. With water: wax paper and a touch of Barbour grease… Mouth (neat): completely pleasant! Varied sorts of apples, a contact of lemon, a drop of mead, tar liqueur, inexperienced pepper, and the basic duo of inexperienced walnuts and mustard. The feel is pretty oily, as at all times. With water: sweeter this time, little agave candies, delicate pepper, and a little bit of mandarin. End: certainly, a bit oilier and sweeter, although nowhere close to what you’d name a candy end. Properly, you get the thought. Feedback: that is simply so good.
SGP:552 – 86 factors. |
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Fettercairn 16 yo 2006 (54.7%, Malt, Grain & Cane, Barbados rum cask, Cranes)
A 6-month end in a Foursquare barrel. If it was one in every of their ‘single blends’, that shouldn’t have prompted an excessive amount of hassle for such a Fettercairn. Color: pale gold. Nostril: sure, it’s in keeping with the remaining—barely overripe apples, walnuts, ink, tar, outdated paper, mustard… Briefly, all is nicely, madame la marquise (because the outdated French track goes). With water: white chocolate! May you get extra delightfully nostalgic? Mouth (neat): 87 factors. Wait, we’re going too quick. Walnuts, radish, mustard, inexperienced tea, sorrel, oil, lime… It’s simply good. With water: doesn’t want a lot water. A contact of bitter oranges. End: medium size, a bit rounder now. Almond milk and oranges, with the ever-present mustardy word. Feedback: we might debate for hours about whether or not or to not add water. And the worth of such commentary (certainly, S.).
SGP:552 – 87 factors. |
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Fettercairn 10 yo 2012/2023 (58.16%, Or Sileis, hogshead, cask #DL15976, 131 bottles)
The construction of this cask quantity for Taiwan factors to a Douglas Laing origin (nicely achieved, Sherlock). In any case, our pricey pals over there appear much more cat-crazy than us, which hardly appears doable. Fortunate cat? Color: white wine. Nostril: again to pure Fettercairn, filled with walnuts, plaster, mustard, and little bitter apples. Amusing hints of bottarga. With water: moist chalk, clay, slate, and recent radishes. Mouth (neat): easy but magical. Inexperienced apple, walnuts, radish, earth, turmeric, and a drop of seawater. The precision of a real Swiss watch. With water: I completely adore this one. To be clear, I beloved all of the others as nicely. End: whoops, wait, it turns barely candy. Sweet sugar and marmalade. Bear in mind, the satan’s at all times within the end. Feedback: jokes apart, one other wonderful younger Fettercairn.
SGP:652 – 86 factors. |
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Fettercairn 12 yo 2009/2021 (57%, Whisky Peter, hogshead + first fill bourbon barrel, cask #800300)
I like these ‘beginner’ labels that appear like they have been made on an Atari or a Commodore. No less than, that’s how they appear, and it’s completely charming. Color: white wine. Nostril: related, in fact. Cider apples, inexperienced walnuts, mustard, chalk, paraffin—you understand the tune. With water: ah, that younger Burgundy Chardonnay vibe, all in regards to the limestone… Unstoppable. Mouth (neat): so good! Inexperienced apples, chalk, walnuts, beeswax, liquorice, horseradish… With water: now that is enjoyable, past grapefruit I’m additionally getting pickled samphires. Or am I dreaming? End: pretty lengthy and easily good. Lemon paraffin and chalk in all their glory. Feedback: it appears all these younger Fettercairns hover between 85 and 87 factors in my little e book. Such consistency is uncommon, and naturally, an indication of very top quality. With all due modesty.
SGP:652 – 87 factors. |
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I feel we’ll cease with the youthful Fettercairns, anyway they’re all fairly unbelievable. Let’s examine if we will discover one or two older ones to wrap up this session, which ultimately wasn’t as excessive or unconventional as we initially thought.
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Fettercairn 22 yo (47%, OB, +/-2024)
We tried the 22-year-old 4 years in the past and fairly loved it, however right here we now have a latest batch, so purely for science, we’ll give it one other go. Color: gold. Nostril: very mustardy and bitter on the nostril, as soon as once more marked by inexperienced walnuts and coal mud, adopted by peppermint and orange peel. To be sincere, we fairly like this. After a minute or two, aubergine and inexperienced propolis be a part of the combo. Mouth: this is not a straightforward whisky; there’s that pronounced bitterness once more, with loads of inexperienced pepper, bitter oranges, paprika, and that very earthy character so typical of Fettercairn. Naturally peppered mushrooms, a bit like some boletes. We find it irresistible. End: it stays considerably excessive in profile, with a great deal of inexperienced and black pepper. Feedback: as they are saying, it doesn’t take many prisoners, but it surely’s fairly spectacular, maybe much more so than the sooner batches. In the event that they ever made it cask power, I reckon you’d want a firearms licence to personal a bottle. I nonetheless find it irresistible.
SGP:472 – 88 factors. |
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Fettercairn 27 yo 1995/2022 (61.3%, Whisky Sponge, refill hogshead, 174 bottles)
The power of Angus’s Whisky Sponge (and of the next ranges), past the apparent high quality of the spirits, was mendacity within the totally singular and inimitable nature of what we’d name its ‘model surroundings’ – a robust character and a fearless, unconstrained expression, which is a uncommon discover in such a conservative Scotland (sure, certainly). However sufficient of that non-public drivel, let’s style this one. Thoughts you, an outdated Fettercairn isn’t essentially higher than a younger one, simply saying. Color: shiny straw. Nostril: nicely, the youthful stress right here is changed by the sheer energy of the alcohol share. Surprisingly sufficient, the result’s extremely related – chalk, apple peels, lemon zest, yellow melon, shoe polish, sourdough, recent cement… With water: recent focaccia and apple juice. Admirable, however nonetheless feels ‘younger’. Mouth (neat): nearly oily, but filled with lemon essence and a riesling focus, if such a factor existed. Be careful for the alcohol! With water: it turns into gentler, however extra complicated, with pastry notes, roasted pistachios, nougat, lemon tarte, drops of verbena liqueur and, above all, genepy, putty, and orange marzipan. You’d nearly suppose this drop got here not from Scotland however from, say, Salzburg. End: beautiful size, very elegant. Feedback: this Fettercairn calls for your full consideration, but it surely’s nicely value it. Very good, given the classic.
SGP:652 – 89 factors. |
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One final one, and a lot for the Fettercairn world document – we’ve bitten off greater than we will chew, as soon as once more.
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Fettercairn 31 yo 1990/2022 (42%, Skene, American oak hogshead, cask #648086) 
Skene could also be a fairly discreet home, however they’ve been releasing some outstanding bottlings, with a pleasantly old-school vibe, which is more and more a advantage in lately of generally considerably ‘faux’ and, above all, conformist modernity. Color: straw. Nostril: the place have these outdated Fettercairns been hiding? Bursting with wonderful whiffs of farmhouse cider, pure Riesling, Chardonnay from Jura and Savoie, and even a contact of Petite Arvine from Valais whereas we’re at it. It’s not typically we discover ourselves this near wine, however keep in mind the rule of Leerdam cheese – the much less there’s, the extra there’s (*). Mouth: magnificent white wine. I’m barely joking. Really, I’m not joking in any respect. Pretty recent oak, with the tiniest trace of coconut and the best vanilla, adopted by limestone and a myriad of delicate flowers and herbs – borage, as an illustration. End: not overly lengthy, however merely good. Tangerines and chocolate mint proper on the finish. Feedback: the place on earth did this come from? Even the ABV is spot on. When you discover a bottle, you understand what to do.
SGP:561 – 91 factors. |
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Simply to understand how far we have come, in 2003 I tasted the brand-new Fettercairn 12 yo ‘1824’ (40%, OB). I did not write a tasting word, however I gave it a modest rating of 70/100. It is true that the actual fact 1824 was additionally the yr of Macallan, and that this was beginning to be marketed, actually made me query whether or not it was applicable to make use of it for Fettercairn. However that was 21 years in the past, and these days, we absolutely would not make such a fuss about it.
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(*) The extra cheese there’s, the extra holes there are, and the extra holes there are, the much less cheese there’s. This could possibly be rephrased as: ‘the much less wine is added to a malt, the extra that malt can showcase the qualities of a superb wine, and the extra wine there’s (finishes, and many others.), the much less that is the case. Anyway, let’s transfer on.
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