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| Hello, that is certainly one of our (virtually) each day tastings. Santé! |
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December 2, 2024
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Impartial Highland Park Galore
It’s been fairly a while since we’ve had a correct, pleasant session targeted on Highland Park. Admittedly, there are far fewer alternatives today, because the overwhelming majority of impartial bottlings now seem below labels resembling Whitlaw (a commerce identify) or Secret Orkney and different enigmatic aliases. In instances like these, it’s exhausting not to wonder if they could truly be Scapa as a substitute—simply as many so-called Secret Campbeltown releases at the moment are extra prone to be Glen Scotia than Springbank or its related manufacturers. Proper then, let’s dive in, selecting at random this time…
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‘Little one’ by Viktor Ekpuk,
acrylic on canvas, 2022 (LMDW) |
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Highland Park 10 yo 2013/2024 (56.2%, Cane & Grain, Personal Reserve, bourbon barrel, cask #4287, 248 bottles) 
Color: Pale white wine. Nostril: that is pure newmake spirit, as if it’s been aged in chrome steel moderately than a barrel. Buckets of beer—hectolitres, actually—alongside doughy bread, a contact of earth and ashes, and simply the faintest trace of vanilla. Very amusing. With water: a refined observe of paraffin oil emerges, even perhaps a whisper of fusel oil. Mouth (neat): as soon as once more, it’s very very like a barley eau-de-vie. There’s kirsch, maybe a nod to Williams pear spirit, and but once more, that ashy contact. It’s explosively youthful. With water: water works wonders, bringing out vibrant lemon, crisp inexperienced apple, and a faintly saline edge. End: lengthy and extremely youthful, with a peculiar mixture of peppered espresso with salty nuances proper on the finish. I do know. Feedback: completely one to choose up for those who fancy displaying your visitors what malt whisky tastes like virtually straight off the nonetheless. Nice enjoyable and, most significantly, rarer than you would possibly suppose.
SGP:652 – 81 factors. |
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Highland Park 16 yo 1974 (57%, The Prestonfield, oak cask, cask #7137, 300 bottles, 75cl, +/-1990) 
Oops, we’re leaping from one factor to a different (we are saying from the rooster to the donkey in French), however didn’t we agree on a ‘random’ method? Anyway, “oak cask,” now that’s one thing we love. Let’s not neglect that The Prestonfield was one of many very first labels from Signatory Classic, they usually stored utilizing it for some time. Their Bowmore and Clynelish bottlings are legendary, although I don’t consider I’ve ever tried this Highland Park earlier than. Color: gold. Nostril: an unimaginable mixture of waxes and honeys, very a lot in line with the fashion of the period. Freshly sawn pinewood, honey, beeswax, contemporary mastic, freshly blended oil paint, and a really outdated white wine that has aged as gracefully as Helen Mirren (or whichever favorite basic actress you like). With water: a little bit of umami arrives, together with meaty notes, however all with class—like a fantastic bouillon. Mouth (neat): large quantities of fir honey, then pine resin and vegetal essences. With water: bitter citrus takes cost, with daring Seville oranges pushing ahead. End: lengthy and magnificently bitter, like an elixir of Chartreuse. Feedback: a mode that feels completely old style and completely marvellous. Nonetheless, 1974 wasn’t that way back, was it?
SGP:572 – 92 factors. |
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Highland Park 16 yo 2007/2024 (56.1%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Alternative, LMDW, refill bourbon barrel, cask #15603520, 229 bottles) 
Color: Straw. Nostril: I used to be anticipating a peatier fashion, however as a substitute, it’s all about brioche with candied fruits. And I’m sorry, however I’ve to say panettone but once more. In spite of everything, it’s the season, and I’d crawl 100 metres in mud simply to seize a small one. With water: doughy bread notes emerge, together with a contact of chalkiness. Mouth (neat): what a flawless distillate! An entire spectrum of lemons—all kinds possible—adopted by honey, particularly, after all, heather honey. With water: much more excellent than excellent, with a wealthy, virtually oily texture. End: lengthy, peppery, however with yuzu taking the lead. Feedback: not a peaty batch of Highland Park, however the high quality is awfully excessive. Greatest loved with panettone (that’s sufficient, S.!).
SGP:651 – 89 factors. |
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Highland Park 6 yo 2017/2023 (60%, Whisky Dudes, cask #52, tawny Port end, 161 bottles) 
Color: mild reddish amber (or onion peel). Nostril: the wine from expensive Portugal takes the lead proper from the beginning, with that fantastically oxidised tawny character shining by. Cherries in kirsch, old style jam, strawberry jelly, after which a mild peatiness with a contact of ash be part of the celebration, creating a pleasant sensation of crimson fruit jam infused with whisky. With water: hints of outdated wine casks in a humid cellar, full with mud and cobwebs. Mouth (neat): firmly within the realm of a wine-and-whisky cocktail, with daring pepper and mocha within the background. With water: oddly sufficient, it really works splendidly. Jams, pepper, clove, Xmas cake… End: comparable, with overripe black cherries and oranges coming by, although black pepper has the ultimate phrase. Feedback: nothing to fault right here—it’s exceptionally nicely finished, although the Port may be very ahead. On this distinctly European fashion (and why not?), it’s top-notch, but nonetheless not my favorite fashion.
SGP:651 – 85 factors. |
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Highland Park 20 yo 2003/2024 (56.7%, LMDW, Artist #14, sherry butt, cask #4148, 435 bottles)
Certainly I like the art work on the label, so I’ll take the freedom of proposing this new definition of whisky: barley, yeast, water, time, and artwork. I’ve not talked about wooden on function. Color: full gold. Nostril: extraordinarily uncommon, beginning with varnish and even acetone, adopted by bitter almond and turpentine. It virtually seems like there’s rye in there. Then come figs and walnut wine, although including water is a should. With water: nonetheless very singular, with extra wooden varnish, inexperienced walnuts, and a few barely overripe apples. Mouth (neat): the cask’s affect is very large, with a great deal of pepper, juniper, pine sap, varnish, and people bitter almonds once more. It’s moderately uncommon. With water: the cask’s influence turns into much more evident—pine, resins, walnuts, ink, mead, bitter almonds, amaretti biscuits… End: lengthy, and the almonds stay dominant. Assume Italian almond liqueurs (sure, the Italians once more, sacrebleu!). Feedback: a very singular Highland Park, difficult to attain. I believe many will completely find it irresistible, whereas others should be scratching their heads.
SGP:462 – 87 factors. |
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Highland Park 1994/2024 (48.1%, Malts of Scotland, Uncommon Casks, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS 24012, 235 bottles)
Let me say it once more: there are true gems on this sequence. Color: Amber gold. Nostril: a basic old-metal observe emerges (suppose outdated pennies) earlier than rapidly shifting to meaty parts like Parma ham, fermenting fruits resembling prunes, and a mixture of damp earth and spent espresso grounds, with a contact of burnt pinewood. This one feels fairly advanced to this point. Mouth: and right here it’s—all the things unfolds on the palate. Splendid darkish figs and Corinthian raisins, fir honey (a dozen kilos—we love that), mint honey (ever tried it?), adopted by Jaffa truffles, pistachio gianduja (sufficient to tempt a saint), and a really refined smokiness with earthy undertones, even a touch of glue or varnish. An entire further dimension, really. End: merely very good. Extra darkish chocolate, orange marmalade, Jaffa truffles, and even a drop of smoky pepper liqueur—if such a factor existed. One should bow with respect. Feedback: it’s all concerning the palate with this 30-year-old magnificence, give or take.
SGP:662 – 91 factors. |
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Highland Park 20 yo 2003/2024 (54.4%, Acla Choice, Whitlaw, Ski Women, hogshead, cask #749)
An amusing label, probably referencing the Swiss Alps moderately than Glenshee or Nevis Vary—although sure, snowboarding in Scotland has been a factor too. Color: Pale white wine. Nostril: absolute purity of favor, showcasing the grandeur of a fantastic outdated hogshead. Furnishings polish, lemon zest, contemporary barley, a contact of ash, a few apples, and even a tiny whelk—et voilà. With water: comparable, although maybe with a bit extra apple. Mouth (neat): that calmly waxy and earthy Highland Park fruitiness, however right here with a fizzy edge, virtually like an outdated champagne. I’ve no concept the place that comes from, but it surely’s spectacular. With water: nonetheless fizzy however now barely richer, with a faint contact of smoke, extra lemon, and hints of verbena and wormwood. End: lengthy, nonetheless form of fizzy, now harking back to outdated cider, with pepper and ashes lingering. Feedback: I’m completely smitten with this uncommon fizzy character.
SGP:551 – 87 factors. |
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We’ll have secret HPs subsequent.
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