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| Hello, that is one in all our (nearly) each day tastings. Santé! |
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November 27, 2024
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A brand new little whisky world tour |
| It’s turn into a little bit of a cliché to say that there are increasingly more whiskies from the ‘remainder of the world’, coming from real whisky distilleries but additionally, extra generally, from distillers who now make whisky along with their common manufacturing (gin, eaux-de-vie, cognac, slivovitz, vodka, rum, shochu—you identify it). |
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To not point out the distilleries that don’t really distil something themselves. It is advisable to go to their web sites and verify in the event you see any stills (and never simply barrels), other than that little 75-litre Portuguese one arrange within the entrance, unconnected to something and gleaming like a brand new penny. Sure, that does exist.
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Domaine des Hautes-Glaces 2016/2024 ‘Epistémé’ (52.3%, OB, France, single observe #B16D24+orange triangle, 216 bottles) 
The final tasting of #B16D24+purple sq. left fairly an impression (WF 90). This natural whisky is matured in vin jaune casks—no mere ending right here— vin jaune being sort of akin to fino sherry, although that comparability is admittedly free and would possibly warrant an apology to our Jura mates. Color: pale gold. Nostril: contemporary bread, crushed mustard seeds, inexperienced walnuts, damp earth, bergamots, newly sprouted cress seeds, sourdough, and hints of dried apricots. It’s like a mountain dweller’s fruit basket. With water: smooth tarry notes and gentle curry peep via. Mouth (neat): gentler than anticipated, however the rush of peppery cress, mustard, and raisin bread is pleasant. With water: cardamom, cooked radish, and beetroot be a part of the fray. End: lengthy, with a stronger peppery kick. I need to element the sorts of pepper extra exactly, as there’s such range! Feedback: I adored the sooner 44% model, and whereas this isn’t essentially ‘higher’, it stands equal in high quality. In any case, it’s distinctive (and we’re within the mountains).
SGP:552 – 90 factors. |
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B&L (46%, Bottles & Legends, Blended Malt Belgian Whisky, Batch 1, new oak & sherry, 125 bottles) 
That includes a captivating little cherry-red 356 on the label, this marks the primary absolutely Belgian blended malt—congratulations! Color: white wine. Nostril: juniper and fennel swirl about, joined by a contact of gentian and a touch of Williams pear. A whiff of pine sap brings a contemporary and considerably spirited character, making for an uncommon but charming profile. Mouth: vivid with lemon and anise, underpinned by juniper, then a fragile contact of crème de cassis from Dijon and a few raspberries. Fortunately, it avoids that ubiquitous ‘low-cost purple’ profile discovered in lots of others nowadays. A real success, I’d say. End: moderately lengthy, staying true to the notes of gentian, blackcurrant, and juniper, with a touch of lemon and returning coriander seeds including a contemporary elevate. Feedback: as some may need anticipated, I consider this whisky, barely chilled, would pair beautifully with Belgian shrimp croquettes. I problem anybody to show in any other case.
SGP:561 – 85 factors. |
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Cormeil ‘Small Batch #1’ (42.7%, Distillerie H. Leblanc, France, completed in calvados cask, 2024) 
Produced by Normandy’s famous calvados makers, Busnel. The author Henri Monnier as soon as remarked, “How foresighted nature is! It makes apples develop in Normandy, understanding that the natives of this area drink nothing however cider.” He would possibly effectively have included calvados in that remark. Color: gentle gold. Nostril: fairly nice, paying homage to many different up to date French whiskies—properly crafted, rounded, with a delicate wooden affect. There’s vanilla and apples, and for as soon as, the apples are authentically current, with a contact of cinnamon as effectively. Mouth: fulfilling, showcasing apple juice, barley syrup, a touch of rhubarb, and barely inexperienced tannins smoothed out by a drizzle of honey. It’s evidently very younger. End: medium in size, contemporary and smooth, evoking recollections of that apple ice wine made in Canada. With local weather change, one wonders if Normandy may ever produce such a factor. Feedback: youthful and approachable with no actual flaws.
SGP:431 – 80 factors. |
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Excessive Coast ‘Mountains 02 – Borgberget’ (51%, OB, Sweden, Moscatel casks, 2024) 
This sequence spotlights Sweden’s iconic mountains, right here showcasing ‘Borgberget’. An unpeated expression, it stands out with its intriguing Moscatel cask end—a nod to the Swedes’ far-reaching historic journeys. Enjoyable reality: the city of Colmar right here in Alsace as soon as fell beneath Swedish management, captured by Gustaf Horn and his forces in 1632. Color: gold. Nostril: the Moscatel affect stays restrained, presenting a whisky that leans dry with a contact of oak. There are hints of scones, pancakes, maple syrup, and barely under-ripe bananas. With water: it blossoms with added depth, revealing a pleasant burst of juicy, ripe apples whereas the Moscatel stays agreeably understated—fortunately so. Mouth (neat): a livelier palate, richer and extra liqueur-like with notes of muscat and guava, complemented by celery and pink pepper. With water: even higher, unfolding sultanas and people charming ripe apples. End: of medium size, that includes raisins and dried apricots. Feedback: preliminary warning gave strategy to reduction, as water proved an ideal enhancer. For a Moscatel-finished dram, it’s moderately charming.
SGP:641 – 83 factors. |
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Bimber ‘Darwin the Naturalist’ (58.3%, OB, England, Shoulders of Giants, bourbon, cask #376, 259 bottles, 2024) 
A pleasant nod to Darwin, reminding us of humanity’s shared ancestry with primates—a reality underscored by the worldwide information nowadays. Maybe there’s a Bimber for David Hume too (although, being Scottish, he may need objected). Color: gold. Nostril: it’s nearly embarrassing how effortlessly these ex-bourbon Bimbers ship, bursting with ripe papaya, mango, peach liqueur, and the flakiest contemporary croissants. You’ll wish to dive proper in. With water: refined vegetal oils emerge, with the faintest trace of shoe polish. Mouth (neat): banana and kiwi liqueurs make an entrance, adopted by assertive notes of Timut and pink peppercorns—marvellously vivid. I’m fairly taken with it. With water: it’s simply extra of the identical, in all the correct methods. End: lengthy, by no means straying into ‘fruit bomb’ extra. Echoes of peach pores and skin, apple, and melon play via. Feedback: as Darwin wittily noticed, ‘An American monkey, after getting drunk on brandy, would by no means contact it once more, and thus is way wiser than most males.’
SGP:751 – 89 factors. |
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Daiking ‘The Reserva Bourbon Cask’ (53%, OB, China, 1st fill bourbon cask, +/-2024)
We beforehand tried the lower-strength releases and located them to be fairly profitable, crafted in a sophisticated, worldwide fashion, and, importantly, free from flaws. Notably, this expression is non-chill-filtered and free from caramel colouring. Color: gold. Nostril: initially, it exhibits a barely fermentative character with smooth beer notes, cake batter, boiled greens like aubergine and courgette, and hints of each earthiness and butter caramel. With water: buttery shortbread and delicate biscuits emerge. Mouth (neat): pleasantly filled with citrus liqueurs, a contact of ginger, inexperienced wooden spices, and dried fruits—suppose lychees and rambutans. It comes collectively very properly. With water: apricots, apples, barley syrup, and papayas be a part of the combo. End: not notably lengthy however well-balanced, with a lovely fruitiness and a faint contact of eucalyptus. Feedback: when tasting a whisky like this, it’s essential to put aside cultural biases—keep away from serious about Temu, Want, or AliExpress. Keep in mind, China additionally produces a number of the best teas on the planet. All in all, I discover this Daiking very effectively executed.
SGP:551 – 84 factors. |
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Cotswolds 2015/2024 (51%, OB, England, 1st fill bourbon, cask #451, 265 bottles)
Let’s be upfront—I tasted this English gem on the Whisky Present in London, and it floored me. However who is aware of? In that full of life environment, surrounded by good firm and heat dialog, maybe I acquired swept up within the second. Time for a sober reassessment. Color: gold. Nostril: impeccably exact, with aromas of dough, croissant pastry, a contact of seaside sand and chalk, resulting in restrained notes of pears and bananas, all topped by a flourish of butterscotch. With water: pears, bananas, papayas, crème anglaise, and wildflower honey. Nothing extra wanted. Mouth (neat): magnificent, this time bursting with a vibrant fruitiness anchored by stern notes of espresso and caramel. A frenzy of winery peaches dances within the background. With water: merely good, accented by hints of camphor and mint. End: not huge however delightfully fruity, sufficient to make the R&D workforce at Haribo resentful. Feedback: effectively, I wasn’t mistaken in any case (self-congratulation is dreadful, isn’t it, S.?).
SGP:751 – 90 factors. |
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To conclude, we had been wanting to do this intriguing little quantity for just a few weeks. We’re so accustomed to the chic single cask variations at round 60% ABV…
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Hellyers Highway ‘Aurora Australis’ (40%, OB, Tasmania/Australia, +/-2024)
A narrative tied to a Roman goddess—one may solely marvel on the thought of the Romans setting foot in Tasmania (a little bit of historic humour there). Color: white wine. Nostril: unexpectedly ultra-fermentative with waxy tallow, roasted artichoke, pickled mushrooms, rainwater, bison grass, ale, and a whiff of mentholated tobacco. An intriguing bouquet that works surprisingly effectively, although one should query the choice to bottle it at 40%; by the point it reaches Europe, it’s possible shed a level or two (only a cheeky thought). Mouth: quirky and delightfully so. Strongly fermentative, smoked with an indeterminate pure component, peppery, woody, and bitter, however all wrapped with a pleasing contact of bitter orange and deeply darkish chocolate. The emphasis on its idiosyncrasies on this base expression is commendable, particularly with that meaty sweetness rising because it opens—honey and chilli-glazed beef jerky, maybe. End: pretty lengthy, fairly bitter, and smoky, showcasing smoked paprika and cocoa powder. Feedback: a ‘free whisky’ very like ‘free jazz’—bravo for resisting the lure of the everyday PX or mizunara end. A real, moral whisky, unapologetically non-mainstream.
SGP:572 – 85 factors. |
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