As roving ambassador for Park Lane Champagne, and being concerned within the magical champagne commerce, I discover I want extra time to roam the nice vineyards of France. Having not visited the nice city of Epernay and the super wine area of Burgundy for a while and with workplaces, venues, sports activities, eating places and outlets closed within the UK it appeared an applicable time to take full benefit of the airbridge with France. Thus on a cold Friday morning 4 gentleman and I jumped within the motor and headed for the white cliffs of Dover.
Our vacation spot was the medieval metropolis of St Gengoux Le Nationwide (St Gengoux Le Royal in pre-revolution instances) which is nestled within the foothills of the Côte Chalonnaise because it blends into the Maconnais. We have been, relaxation assured, agreed that it could be a great alternative to cease by Epernay and evaluation the progress of this 12 months’s harvest in Champagne. And, be equally reassured that this 12 months’s harvest boasts each wonderful high quality and amount. In reality, it’s such a robust harvest that, mixed with the pandemic, it has brought about a sure raucous between the vignerons and champagne homes. Following final 12 months’s hunch in gross sales, the champagne homes predict 100 million fewer bottles to be offered within the corona 12 months of 2020. As such they’re reluctant to purchase way more – particularly since they’re rumoured to already be holding a surplus inventory in extra of 1 billion bottles of their cellars – and thus the champagne governing physique, the CIVC, have capped the yield for this 12 months at 8,000kg/hectare (down by a 3rd), so as to not saturate the market.
Anyhow, sitting on the prime of the hill subsequent to the Abbaye Saint-Pierre d’Hautvillers (the place Dom Perignon first tasted stars), we could not assist however be struck, as I’m each single time I go to the wine making areas of France, by it is sheer and huge magnificence.
Recharged and excited by what we noticed in Champagne, in addition to strengthened by a coup or two, we jumped again into the Daimler (1998 classic, now you ask) and nosed south right down to Burgundy, the large V8 sipping premium unleaded at a gradual 19.7mpg…
Now the intention of our weekend was not debauchery (though there was a lot) nor was it relaxation (of which there was little) however of studying and exploration. We sought to beat the Côte de Beaune. The Côte de Beaune is located slight south east of the centre of Burgundy and begins at Sampigny-lès-Maranges and ends at Pernand Vergelesses adjoining to the majestic Corton hill, and has alongside its banks a few of the world’s most well-known vineyards and cities: from Beaune which is likely one of the key wine centres of France (well-known for the colorful tiles that adorns lots of its buildings’ roofs); to Montrachet (well-known for Le Montrachet together with a number of different fabulous white Burgundies); from Santenay through Meursault, Volnay and Pommard (that are two communes not even 100 meters aside which produce phenomenally totally different wines), amongst many others.
When embarking on a voyage of discovery regarding wine there are quite a few elements concerned: style, terroir, atmosphere, grapes, mix, classic and ageing. What’s explicit about French wines – and particularly Burgundian wines – not like new world wines (that are named solely after their grapes) is that location is every part. Take Burgundy, for instance: whereas wines from the Côte Chalonnaise are, typically talking, lighter and fruitier, wines from the Côte de Nuits have way more of the everyday farmyard aroma that many affiliate with Burgundian wines. Much less typically talking, every city’s wine alongside every of the Côtes have differing smells and style; extra carefully nonetheless, producers in a city in a single village are prone to have differing wines from one other home in that very same village, even when they personal vines in the identical winery.
So, with the well being of our livers in thoughts, we determined to deal with the Côte de Beaune and particularly the fifth technology household home of Dubreuil-Fontaine – a very top quality wine producer located in Pernand Vergelesses. The ever aromatic Delphine greeted us with a heat gallic “bonjour” and took us on an oenological voyage of pleasure within the cool darkish tasting cellars. 
It’s uncommon when tasting a single producer’s vary that each one the wines from backside to prime impart such a scrumptious style. Dubreuil-Fontaine actually has a sensational vary of each whites and reds from totally different plots within the Côte de Beaune – however particularly concentrated within the village and on Corton hill. Beautiful wealthy creaminess with delicate oak of their whites and a fruity and wealthy depth of their reds. In fact, as nice and exhilarating as it’s to style a producer’s vary of wines, we had our unique intention (studying and exploration) on the forefront of our shortly clouding minds; and on this too, Dubrieul-Fontaine was incredible with wines from throughout the Côte de Beaune permitting us an introduction to the distinctive tastes and quirks of wines from alongside the Côte.
One of many hidden treasures of the Côte de Beaune is just not its magnificent vineyards or producers, however what lurks on the prime of the hill behind Pernand Vergelesses: the Madonna. With vineyards surrounding, a statue of the blessed Virgin Mary sits on the prime of the hill searching over the whole Côte de Beaune as if making certain that it continues producing a few of the phrase’s best wines. If ever travelling to or by way of Burgundy it’s nicely value a slight detour off the autoroute. Beneath is an image of the jaw dropping view from the Madonna, with the Côte de Beaune dissappearing into the horizon. Dubreuil Fontaine additionally produce wine from instantly under the Madonna, with the plot enchantingly generally known as Sous Fretille (literal translation that means, underneath the petticoats). Superb to think about that France has formally been a secular nation since 1905, with the state owing all the church buildings and but the iconography and presence of Christianity is ever current all through this space – little icons and pictures at random spots in vineyards, and such like. Definitely the historic significance of faith is underlined, even when ingesting wine from underneath the Madonna’s petticoats does have a beautiful naughtiness to it!
Understandably thirsty after our tasting and peckish after our pilgrimage, we descended the hill with a full boot and empty tummies. Lunch was booked in Meursault at a incredible restaurant known as Le Soufflot. This is also a diamond within the tough for wine fans not solely with two Michelin Stars for its meals (which is about menu, no selection), however largely for its’ staggering wine menu that makes Jasper Morris’ ‘Inside Burgundy’ burst into life with alternative to style what he describes. The wine checklist has been described as second solely to the George Cinq in France for Burgundy wines and we may nicely imagine it. Evidently, it was lucky that Uncle Paul got here to the rescue when l’addition was offered…
Feeling suitably replete and in want of atonement from our day’s indulgence into the world of wine, on our return journey to St Gengoux we stopped by The Hungry Bicycle owner nestled away in Auxey-Duresses to gather a jersey sportif every (sporting the nice Coq of Burgundy, after all!) as a promise of repentance for deployment when on the pedals again in Bighty. With out query, you should keep at Tom’s good institution if in want of lodging and enjoyable within the coronary heart of Burgundy – whether or not a bike owner or not!
I contemplate it an ideal fortune that I work on the tail finish of an business with such depth, historical past, complexity and luxurious, and a better fortune nonetheless that I can discover it. These sensational wines which are served in most of the best eating places within the UK from Mayfair to Morecombe have extremely humble roots in villages that nobody would ever conceive do produce such world famend deliciousness. For us, having definitely discovered an ideal deal and explored an unlimited terrain we headed house with heavy hearts however bountiful brains.
There are definitely worse methods to spend a weekend.
Pip pip.
