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| Hello, that is certainly one of our (nearly) each day tastings. Santé! |
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December 15, 2024
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A phrase of warning
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are carried out from the standpoint of a malt whisky fanatic who, what’s extra, is aboslutely not an knowledgeable in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or some other spirits. Thanks – and peace! |
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Rums are
again on WF
The considerably synthetic, even absurd, development of “premiumisation” that has affected many single malt whiskies in recent times has led fairly just a few aficionados to partially shift their consideration in direction of rums. True, the tide has been ebbing for a yr or two now, however rum’s buyer base has nonetheless expanded. There’s inevitably a ratchet impact—maybe small, however in my view, actual. Briefly, we’re in all probability not all going to desert rum simply because the costs of single malt whisky are tumbling once more, generally as quickly as a lorry with no brakes careering down the Andes (what?). Anyway, let’s see what we now have in retailer right now…
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The inevitable mizunara.
You can too purchase it right here. |
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The Duppy Share ‘Aged Caribbean Rum’ (40%, OB, Jamaica & Barbados, +/-2024) 
A critical aperitif, for as soon as, within the type of a beautiful bottle, a mix of younger rums from Worthy Park and Foursquare, provided at a really well-considered worth. Color: gold. Nostril: I discover you’ll be able to clearly sense each origins, with diesel oil and tar on one facet, and orange cake and sugarcane on the opposite. These two or three little olives may come from both camp. Very nice, although barely mild on the nostril, seemingly as a result of ABV, which shouldn’t intimidate anybody. Mouth: it’s good and really in keeping with the nostril. A little bit sugar (with out sweetness, if you realize what I imply) and loads of liquorice, brine, pineapple, papaya, and ultra-ripe bananas. Much more than ripe, actually. End: a bit too brief for the fanatic, although the profile stays nice. Feedback: a really good mix the place neither distillery really dominates. A bit extra punch would do it good.
SGP:542 – 80 factors. |
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J. Gow 3 yo ‘Revenge’ (43%, OB, Scotland, bourbon, +/-2024) 
Rum from Orkney, hooray! Alas, the phrase ‘impressed by pirates’ on the label is a bit alarming – as dangerous because the Vikings – however that’s not what issues. In addition to, is there a single rum on this planet that doesn’t point out pirates? They’ve been making rum at J. Gow since 2017, and naturally, given the sugarcane harvests on Orkney are what they’re, molasses should be imported. Nevertheless it’s pot nonetheless! Color: white wine. Nostril: within the Jamaican model, with simply the correct amount of ‘funk’, tar, seawater, salmiak, then a light-weight descent into softer, nearly floral aromas. A contact of heather, or are we dreaming? Mouth: delightfully saline, we’d even say insular. Pretty salted liquorice, seawater, oysters, pepper… Nonetheless that funk – one may even consider the Common White Band, that nice Scottish funk band. End: beautiful however a bit brief. Comparable aromas. Feedback: in actuality, this rum is produced on the tiny island of Lamb Holm within the Orkneys. I believe there’s loads of scope for a model at 50 or 57% ABV. In different phrases, at ‘pirate power’. However really, after the rums from Islay and Ninefold, Scottish rums are on a roll.
SGP:453 – 84 factors. |
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Isautier 13 yo 2009 ‘La Cour’ (59%, OB, La Réunion, agricole, 2024) 
An outdated distillery that was rebuilt after which renovated. We’ve already tasted some glorious ones. Color: darkish gold. Nostril: a number of orange zest and cumin, fairly an uncommon mixture that works very properly. A slight cologne-like observe, however in no way off-putting on this context—fairly the alternative. Very good earthy tones and loads of spices. With water: not a lot improvement, only a contact gentler. Very good. Mouth (neat): very highly effective, nonetheless spicy, with cumin and caraway taking the lead, alongside orange marmalade. A bit tough, however that’s the alcohol. Mustard seed. With water: the sweetness of orange liqueur, candied ginger, and delicate mustard… Recent oak is slightly noticeable, but it surely works, changing into even spicier. End: lengthy, with a return of earthy notes and a gorgeous honey that takes over. Feedback: I really feel that Isautier retains enhancing, at the very least in terms of these high-end bottlings. Very beautiful spices.
SGP:561 – 87 factors. |
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Let’s keep within the Indian Ocean…
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Penny Blue 13 yo 2011/2024 (60%, OB, Mauritius, Foundations, oloroso sherry, cask #220, 126 bottles)
It’s Berry Bros. who develop the Penny Blue model, which is all the time a slightly good signal, in fact. The sherry? We’ll see… Color: caramel. Nostril: a whole lorry filled with Mars bars, plus a contact of instantaneous espresso, barely burnt walnut cake, and toffee. It’s higher than it sounds in these notes. With water: let’s identify the model, Nescafé, together with a wee slice of Dundee orange marmalade (in fact). Mouth (neat): a reasonably mild distillate wrapped in a really highly effective shell, so a number of substance across the edges however a considerably fragile center—not essentially a flaw, thoughts you. Anyway, it’s very cask-driven (clearer now, isn’t it?). With water: it’s good, extra balanced, and oddly sufficient provides a greater texture. End: medium size, totally on pepper and marmalade. Feedback: superb, but it surely suffers a bit after the Isautier, which has way more persona.
SGP:631 – 83 factors. |
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Since we’re within the space…
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Savanna 21 mo (58.2%, Poh ! Spirits, La Réunion, 140 bottles, 2024) 
A mix of conventional and grand arôme, aged 21 months in Sauternes. In any case, Savanna resists all the things (wink). Color: pale white wine. Nostril: the alcohol comes by way of a bit, however mercurochrome, varnish, brine, and diesel rapidly take over, whereas ripe banana and mirabelles herald some fruit. There’s additionally a slight finger biscuit observe. Pretty. With water: the yeasty notes come to the forefront, to our nice delight. You may even discover a trace of peated beer. Mouth (neat): nobody can resist the grand arôme, although three litres of mirabelle and apricot eau-de-vie quickly come crashing by way of, Mad Max-style. Nevertheless it’s one of many prettiest clashes possible. Apricots and olives? Who’d have thought. With water: what’s humorous is you’ll be able to’t fairly inform the place the flavours come from—the rum or the wine—it’s a little bit of a guessing sport, however the result’s splendidly coherent. It’s glorious, actually, with some blood orange rising to the floor. End: lengthy, with small touches of rose liqueur. The worst half? It’s truly completely scrumptious. Feedback: it’s not a lot how they made this that’s fascinating, however how they got here up with the thought. And the very fact they averted the potential lure of grand arôme + heavy Sauternes.
SGP:752 – 89 factors.
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New Yarmouth 19 yo 2005/2024 (55.8%, Vagabond Spirits, Silva Assortment, Jamaica, maple wooden end)
A 4-month ending in maple wooden. Certainly a success in Quebec, however I’m not satisfied it may affect a New Yarmouth that a lot, absolutely loaded with all its attributes. Let’s see… Color: mild gold. Nostril: tabernak, that is pure Jamaican to this point—tar, carbon, acetone, rotting fruits, brine, olives, salty liquorice… With water: tarmac after a heavy tropical downpour. Mouth (neat): salty and lemony liquorice in abundance. Perhaps that lemony facet—and people touches of limoncello—comes partly from the maple wooden, although I couldn’t say for positive. With water: I’m giving up the search right here; at most, I’d say there’s maybe a faint trace of added sweetness. Does dried maple wooden include a lot ‘sugary’ sap just like the syrup? End: lengthy, and certainly comparatively delicate for a New Yarmouth. Feedback: it’s enjoyable and superb. Virtually makes you wish to hearken to Céline, although we’d slightly go together with Diane or Nanette.
SGP:752 – 87 factors. |
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Let’s keep on with one thing extra ‘regular’ should you don’t thoughts. Nicely, we’ll strive at the very least…
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Neisson ‘ESB Mizunara’ (51.2%, OB, Martinique, agricole, natural, 2024)
You’re kidding—Neisson is doing Mizunara now? Everybody says it’s ‘a uncommon Japanese oak,’ however at this price, there’ll quickly be no bushes left standing. Critically, it’s a sort of Quercus mongolica and is, in accordance with Wikipedia, ‘extensively distributed in Northeast Asia.’ In fact, bringing it to Martinique in all probability isn’t nice for the carbon footprint, however let’s not nit-pick. No less than there’s the Panama Canal. Color: straw. Nostril: properly, it’s beautiful—flippantly toasted and honeyed, with limoncello muffins and a faint contact of fir buds. Nice. With water: comparable, however now extra cedar wooden, and even a contact of charcoal. Mouth (neat): very delicate, with a slight tequila edge (from the Mizunara?) and a great deal of fir honeydew. A little bit of caraway and poppy seeds, plus some lemon. It’s actually good, although it’s beginning to really feel a bit like some spiced-up white rum. With water: identical, with added salty touches. Lemon blossom honey and seawater, although the proportions are nonetheless unclear. End: pretty lengthy, however the flavours begin to really feel a bit tiring—there’s a persistent sweetness that received’t let go. Feedback: it’s good, superb—it’s Neisson, in any case—however to me, this looks like a slightly anecdotal cuvée. Subsequent, amburana, I suppose.
SGP:641 – 80 factors. |
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HD 8 yo 2016/2024 (59.2%, The Whisky Jury, Jamaica, refill barrel, cask #101301, 269 bottles)
A ‘multimark’ HD. Now we have no motive to suppose this isn’t Hampden, although whether or not it leans extra OWH or
SGP:651 – 86 factors. |
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TDL 31 yo 1991/2023 (62.7%, Distilia, The Golden Age of Piracy, Trinidad, cask #R2455, 205 bottles) 
A tribute to ‘Black Bart,’ a well-known pirate. Pirates, once more! This one spent 15 years in Trinidad (and Tobago—we all the time neglect Tobago). Color: gold. Nostril: this isn’t a kind of fruity bombs we love a lot (aka the Bushmills from the Caribbean), however slightly a reasonably earthy and mentholated rum, not vastly expressive at this stage. At 62%, that’s fairly regular—it’s in all probability a bit locked up. With water: hints of recent tyres, however nonetheless struggling to return out. No fruit, even with water. Mouth (neat): appears superb, but it surely doesn’t actually really feel prefer it’s 31 years outdated. It additionally feels just like the cask had a robust affect on the distillate, with a really outstanding ‘resinous’ facet. It’s sort of circling round turpentine territory. With water: significantly better, nearly a resurrection, however let’s not get carried away—there are tens of millions of rums at the next degree inside Distilia and their linked/affiliated manufacturers. End: lengthy, however nonetheless with that odd candy rubber feeling. Feedback: we’ve lastly discovered a rum from Distilia/Wealth Options/Colors of Rum that we don’t completely love… About time, actually.
SGP:661 – 79 factors. |
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Caroni 25 yo 1997/2022 (64.5%, The Colors of Rum, Trinidad, cask #6, 132 bottles)
It was about time we tasted this child that can in all probability blow our heads off. Color: gold. Nostril: this can be a lighter Caroni by way of aromas, however in fact, it’s highly effective in terms of ethanol. Maybe the 2 are linked, aren’t they… With water: oh, how I really like these new plastic notes from Temu, Want, or Aliexpress. Critically, I am keen on them—I may order ineffective digital devices that don’t work in any respect simply to catch that odor if you open the parcel. However let’s not speak about phthalates and bisphenol in our tasting notes (too late, S.). Mouth (neat): fairly excellent, although quite simple at this power. Bitter oranges, varnish, and a contact of tar. With water: beautiful, slightly balanced, not likely a rubber bomb, however I get pleasure from it lots even when it’s maybe not a Caroni ‘+++’. End: lengthy. Paint, rubber, and a few price range orange liqueur. Feedback: that industrial vibe—no matter that actually means—all the time appeals to me, even when this isn’t one of many excessive Caronis. Nonetheless, it’s very, superb.
SGP:563 – 88 factors. |
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Let’s head again to Jamaica to complete off…
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Secret Jamaica 9 yo 2015/2024 (50%, Relaxation & Be Grateful for Wu Dram Clan & Kirsch Import, 2 barrels) 
Nicely, they are saying it’s secret, however they add that it’s from a distillery in Lluidas Vale, the place, as everybody is aware of, there are 137 distilleries. In fact, there’s just one: Worthy Park. Intelligent transfer to launch these semi-secret variations. We love Worthy Park. Color: mild gold. Nostril: rubber and brine upfront, then recent branches, recent almonds, hints of asparagus, new motor oil, and greenhouse vibes… It’s beautiful, very elegant. With water: pleasant, with carbon paper, thermal paper, and low-tide seawater. Mouth (neat): how good is that this! There’s even a contact of Ardbeg (severely), lemon, seaweed, shells, recent tar, and a little bit of seawater. Nonetheless to determine whether or not this water is from the Irish Sea or the Caribbean. With water: now simply good. Bitter almonds, orgeat, salted lemon (no points there), and even a touch of peat. Yep. End: lengthy, recent, salty, maritime. Feedback: let me puff up my chest a bit right here—it’s essential to nail your dilution completely to hit 90, as we simply did. With decreasing water amount and high quality actually matter, yep.
SGP:453 – 90 factors. |
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Nicely, since we’re at WP (theoretically)…
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Lluidas Vale 7 yo 2015/2024 (63.1%, The Duchess, Jamaica, cask #18, 243 bottles)
240–360g ester/HLPA right here (marque WPH), which is comparatively mild, although not too mild. Certainly, it’s WP. Let me say it once more—manufacturers that block independents from utilizing their names are taking pictures themselves within the foot, slowly fading out of relevance amongst aficionados. This has already occurred with many malt whiskies that youthful fanatics don’t even find out about (sure, there are younger malt whisky fanatics!), and it could be a disgrace if rum manufacturers adopted the identical path. Simply my humble opinion: no visibility, no picture. Color: white wine. Nostril: the purity at Lluidas Vale is all the time slightly hanging (no model names allowed, proper). Right here we’re deep into industrial harbour water, tar, recent oysters, and inexperienced olives—two olives, no extra. With water: carbon paper, wax paper, wallpaper glue… Mouth (neat): this Lluidas Vale is so good! Even at 63%. Filled with ashes, lime, liquorice wooden, extra ashes, and a contact of mint oil… With water: unbelievable purity, fruity salinity, exact aromas—olives, anchovies, asparagus, lemon… End: lengthy however fairly delicate, exact, nearly refreshing, nearly like a dry martini with Noilly Prat. The London consultants will get it. A faint trace of strawberry cream on the very finish—some peculiar molecule at play right here. Feedback: I’ve all the time been an enormous fan of Lluidas Vale—deliver on the following Lluidas Vale!
SGP:463 – 90 factors. |
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 Examine the index of all rums we have tasted to this point
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