The panade recipe in The Zuni Cafe Cookbook got here to my consideration when a pal baked a stupendous double-version of it in an over-sized AGA dutch oven and served it at a cocktail party years in the past. It was the show-stopping centerpiece of a meal flanked by a stupendous winter inexperienced + chicory salad and gem-shaded glasses of wine. The mix of effervescent cubes of brothy bread and caramelized onions silkily merging with molten threads of cheese is knee-buckling. It’s the right instance of a brief checklist of the only elements coming collectively into one thing rather more than then sum of their components.
I’ve baked variations of this panade within the years since, and it by no means disappoints. It’s endlessly adaptable, that means that you could add seasonal elements to fit your fancy. For instance, in my case, I do a vegetarian model by switching up the broth, and I like my onions on the caramelized facet of the spectrum. I’ll add no matter sautéed greens or roasted greens I’ve round. Judy additionally listed a spread of concepts and variations within the cookbook, so in case you have it (and it’s best to!) make sure to have a look at these for year-round inspiration. Her authentic had chard. I exploit plenty of scallions in mine. Briefly, it’s a type of IYKYK recipes. Molly Wizenberg knew what was up means again in 2005 when she wrote concerning the Judy panade recipe right here.
I’m going to dive in and reply numerous questions right here which may pop up. The ingredient checklist for this panade couldn’t be less complicated, however the satan is within the particulars and navigating private preferences.
What Type of Bread for this Panade?
The brief reply is an efficient, chewy artisan sourdough loaf. That mentioned, I may even argue that a variety of that is private desire. Should you bake sourdough at house, by all means, use that. Both of these selection will possible lead to a properly structured panade with good distinction between a few of the parts. The bread selection is such a giant deal on this recipe, each will affect your finish outcome immensely. I realized the arduous means once I used a extra industrial sourdough loaf to make the panade one evening – a lot finer crumb, much less/no chewiness, and I’m guessing it was 100% all-purpose flour. The ensuing panade broke down too far, into an unstructured hunch. You need the bread to place up a battle and maintain a little bit of pressure. Not go to mush altogether. The very best model I’ve made was with a loaf of day-old selfmade sourdough made with wild rice in it. 
Crust or no Crust?
There are arguments for each. The panade right here retained the crust on the bread cubes. However I’ve completed crustless variations earlier than. Should you determine you like a brilliant oozy, silky panade, go crustless. Should you like your panade to have extra construction, preserve your crust. Or go 50/50!
What’s the Finest Broth for Panade?
We have a tendency to make use of no matter good-tasting broth now we have round or within the freezer (defrost). I really like an herby broth for this scallion and chive model, however should you’re in a pinch seize a bouillon dice or two and go from there. Judy makes use of a rooster broth in her recipe (which doesn’t work for vegetarians), however I’ve had nice outcomes with mushroom broth, and corn broth together with roasted cherry tomatoes and goat cheese within the panade. I’ve even used spicy bean broth.
Can I exploit a Totally different Cheeses on this Panade?
You may! I name for Gruyere, however point out within the headnote that one in every of my favourite variations ended up being a mix of Gruyere, Parmesan, and Pecorino cheeses. I favor barely assertive cheeses for the panade, with not less than a portion being a cheese that oozes when melted. For instance, I wouldn’t attain for a mozzarella – too gentle.
Can I Make this Forward of Time?
I typically make the caramelized onions forward of time. After which every other fillings that I’d be capable of pre-roast.
Soupy versus Dry-ish Panades
Once more, that is private desire. After you bake panade a couple of times you’ll begin to get a way of what model you favor. You may go the soup-is route by including extra broth. Or lean into extra of a stuffing vibe with much less broth. The recipe under goals to hit the mark the place the panade is transitioning from a stuffing-like texture, into silkier magic, not-yet-in-soup territory.
This recipe is a warming, hearty, winter hotter. It seems so rustic, however the silkiness down within the depths is what’s extremely shocking. It’s the last word consolation dish that I hope you take pleasure in as a lot as I’ve over time. Because of Jamie & Chanda & Bonni for our SF panade dinners, we miss them (and also you) a lot!
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