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| Hello, that is one in every of our (virtually) day by day tastings. Santé! |
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October 27, 2024
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A couple of prime cognacs to arrange for November
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In any case, cognac pairs effectively with fallen leaves and the final mushrooms of the season, doesn’t it? … So why not begin with some from the Borderies, the smallest of the crus?
Pied-bleu mushroom, Lepista nuda, previously Rhodopaxillus nudus. Excellent mushroom that grows in winter (Sultiver les Champignons).
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Fanny Fougerat ‘XO Iris Poivré 10 ans’ (44.6%, OB, Borderies, 888 bottles, 2024) 
There was a earlier model at a extra modest 40% vol. which was nonetheless wonderful (WF 86), and right here we now have a brand new bottling at a extra… whiskyesque energy. Color: pale gold. Nostril: there’s a sure rigidity right here, with some touches of polish, curry, patchouli, and an uncommon however very interesting trace of juniper {that a} malt lover would respect. A little bit of thuja wooden, inexperienced apples, notes of jasmine and violets, and solely later do you discover ripe peach, orange blossom, and sultanas. Mouth: we fairly benefit from the relative greenness, that peppery, herbaceous, spicy, and floral aspect. Poppy seeds, cinnamon, violet sweets, after which some fir honey. The curry notes stay current. End: a wide range of peppers take over, alongside liquorice, pistachio, and repair tree berry eau-de-vie. Feedback: pistachio and repair tree berries, that at all times works! A variety of presence on this younger model.
SGP:561 – 87 factors. |
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Cognac Park 5 yo ‘Mizunara’ (43.5%, OB, Tessendier, Borderies, +/-2024) 
Right here’s a type of Cognacs completed in mizunara, as Courvoisier can also be now doing. It’s definitely not conventional, however after the preliminary gentle shock, one realises it’s vital to maintain an open thoughts. To be sincere, I’ve tried it earlier than and located it quite pleasing. Color: gold. Nostril: it definitely doesn’t have the depth of the Fougerat, however this mild, woody aspect—sandalwood, incense, cherry blossom, and Earl Gray tea—works fairly effectively. Only a tiny trace of fir buds. Mouth: it’s quite gentle and recent, however it feels a lot older than 5 years, little doubt the magic of that mizunara. A beautiful trio of liquorice, mint, and raisins. End: good size, much more liquorice, however the general profile stays the identical. Feedback: not a fan of the beautiful hybrid idea, however I fairly just like the end result (so maybe I used to be improper, as soon as once more).
SGP:651 – 84 factors. |
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Tiffon ‘Très Vieille Réserve Fins Bois’ (40%, OB, +/-2024) 
There’s additionally a Très Vieille Réserve Grande Champagne. This Fins Bois is a mix of very previous Cognacs, over 70 years of age, so it strikes me as a bit odd that they’ve diminished it to the naked minimal of 40% vol. Color: amber. Nostril: all about delicacy, with previous papers, beeswax, pollen, and a faint coastal contact (sea air, umbrella pines), adopted by some splendid honeys, notably heather honey. There’s one thing treasured about it; you virtually wish to nostril it in a big balloon glass aka fishbowl glass like our grandfathers used to do, however we’ll stick with our trusty tulip glasses. Mouth: peach and apricot liqueur, touches of fudge, extra of that fantastic heather honey (actually, there’s an previous Highland Park really feel right here and there), and a really gentle pepper. Cautious now, at 40%, it slips down like Franz Klammer on the slopes of Kitzbühel. End: not so brief, with mild earthy notes, prunes, and pipe tobacco. Feedback: inevitably a bit irritating for a malt lover, however that is fairly a unprecedented spirit. Tips on how to give it an affordable rating?
SGP:651 – 89 factors. |
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Please one other fins bois, s’il-vous-plaît, however at a a lot greater energy…
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Mauxion ‘70’s Decade’ (61.2%, Via the Grapevine, LMDW, 42 bottles, 2024)
A micro-bottling composed of strictly all of the vintages from the Nineteen Seventies. The bottling energy is sort of exceptional; one imagines some demijohns have been concerned. Color: darkish gold. Nostril: peach liqueur, maple syrup, beeswax, and wooden varnish. At 60%, it’s already exhibiting superbly! With water: the varnish lingers, whereas bay leaves, cherry stems, and mandarins be a part of the social gathering. Mouth (neat): we’re virtually veering in direction of previous bourbon territory, with a contact of Calvados as effectively. Peach, grape seeds, and glue maintain sway with confidence. With water: service tree berries return, alongside fruit skins, and even a touch of banana and pineapple. It’s virtually like ‘any’ totally rounded brown spirit of excessive stage. End: lengthy, now virtually youthful. A little bit of liquorice and caramel, paying homage to a traditional French candy referred to as ‘Batna’ from Kréma. Feedback: this one too is simply superior.
SGP:561 – 89 factors. |
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François Voyer ‘Lot N°81’ (52.2%, Spirit Co-Op, Grande Champagne, cask #BA-81/1) 
The home of François Voyer appears to be making a well-deserved splash amongst whisky fanatics, thanks to some notably sharp impartial bottlers (this one hailing from China!). Color: gold. Nostril: it’s fairly elegant, virtually discreet but in addition very complicated, beginning with delicate herbs and flowers (mint, borage, wisteria—although wisteria isn’t precisely delicate…) adopted by dried fruits, figs, dates, apricots, and a wide range of honeys. Actually very elegant. With water: admirable notes of hay and the skins of peach and mango. Mouth (neat): very good fruitiness, not so discreet in spite of everything. Winery peaches reign supreme, resting on a mattress of honeys, roses, and muscat. Properly, kind of. With water: no actual change, besides maybe a touch of persimmon making an look. Excellent certainly. End: lengthy, gentle, honeyed. Liquorice within the aftertaste, as is commonly the case. Feedback: have they planted a little bit of Gewürztraminer in Grande Champagne? Simply kidding. A wonderful previous Grande Champagne with a powerful recent fruitiness.
SGP:751 – 90 factors. |
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François Voyer ‘Lot No°71’ (56.6%, Aesthetic Amber Alchemy, Edward Zeng & Viktor, Grande Champagne, cask #BA-71/1)
Color: darkish amber. Nostril: ah sure, we’re again with that lacquered profile, leaning in direction of polished woods (cherry, thuja) and an array of dried and stewed fruits. Loads of figs, thoughts you, with a delicate contact of almonds, cherries, and a touch of kirsch… oh, and peach jam alongside blood orange marmalade. With water: molasses, caramel, and agave syrup—the whole lot harmonising completely, as if it have been all choreographed. Mouth (neat): oh, completely. Glue, pepper, peaches, varnish, pears, darkish tobaccos, very deep honeys, cinnamon, jasmine… all of it bounces round like a mountain stream. Magnificent countryside Cognac—or one thing alongside these strains… With water: totally traditional, totally sensible, however do watch out to not add an excessive amount of water. End: exact, virtually easy now, with a lightweight earthiness earlier than shifting into menthol and resinous notes. Completely adore it. Feedback: that is the sort of previous Cognac that reminds you it’s not some industrial concoction whipped up in a lab. I’m certain you get what I imply.
SGP:661 – 91 factors. |
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Vallein Tercinier ‘Lot 74’ (50.9%, OB, Wealth Options for Concord Whisky & The Antelope Macau, Fins bois, 2024)
Color: full gold. Nostril: fairly amusingly, you’ll be able to actually sense the extra rustic character of sure ‘bois’ right here, with whiffs of rubber boots, previous apples, freshly minimize grass, mosses and ferns, previous woods within the forest, and mushrooms… however there are additionally peaches, apples, honey and all that. With water: the previous apples and musty cellar vibes grow to be much more pronounced. Mouth (neat): previous calvados, pepper, rubber, previous apples, lemons, oak honeydew… With water: not a lot change on the palate both. End: medium size, with hay, mosses, mushrooms, and nonetheless these previous apples. Some figs add a contact of sweetness within the aftertaste. Feedback: I discover this model completely charming, with a bit nostalgic twist that reminds one of many well-known The Connells’ ballad ’74 – ’75. Only a bit…
SGP:451 – 90 factors. |
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A final one for the street…
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Jean-Luc Pasquet 50 ‘Lot 70’ (52.1%, Maltbarn, Grande Champagne, 84 bottles, 2024)
Over 50 years in well-behaved oak, and maintain on tight—it’s 2% of the value requested by a number of Speyside distilleries for a similar age, and for what is perhaps lesser spirits. That’s sufficient to make a brick weep. Color: full gold. Nostril: actually, this might cross for a terrific previous Speyside of comparable age. I imply it. Honey, very ripe melon and mango, white chocolate, butterscotch sauce, roasted nuts, peach and apricot jam, a really gentle smoky be aware, toasted bread, and dare I say it, shades of Nineteen Fifties Macallan. With water: very good, with the faintest metallic touches. Mouth (neat): splendid fruitiness, honeys, roasted hazelnuts, tiny touches of molasses, a little bit of sherry (although after all, there’s none), marrons glacés, and a touch of mocha. With water: hints of camphor, sultanas, and a contact of eucalyptus. End: lengthy but mild. Oranges, mint, a drop of olive oil, and a superbly liquorice-laced aftertaste. Feedback: and naturally, assured with out paxarette or… French brandy. Properly, there clearly is a few of that (not paxarette thoughts you).
SGP:651 – 92 factors. |
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Zind Humbrecht 1998-2002-2003/2024 (57%, Newbie Spirit, eau-de-vie de vin, Pinot Noir Heimbourg)
Technically, it is a high quality, which means an eau-de-vie de vin very similar to Cognac. The wine used is Pinot Noir, as in Burgundy, although the terroir is extremely near WF HQ—barely a hare’s leap away (I can see it from my desk). Color: deep gold. Nostril: it opens with a beautiful mixture of glue, varnish, and acetone, which we at all times respect when well-balanced, adopted by moss, ferns, grape stems, wealthy soil, and saffron, with hints of quince, apricot, and celery. There’s completely nothing ‘winey’ about it. With water: water brings out a pleasant wave of baked items, notably amaretti and different almond biscuits with a contact of bitter almonds. Mouth (neat): highly effective and far more expressive on the palate, full of spices giving it a distinctly oriental vibe. Suppose turmeric, paprika, saffron once more, candied lemons, these bitter almonds, and at last black cherries—such a Pinot Noir marker. The wooden is effectively in examine. With water: the feel thickens and it bounces round your mouth like a superball. Spices, candied fruits, and even a faint trace of salinity. Then once more, the ocean was nonetheless right here, in spite of everything, solely about thirty million years in the past. End: lengthy, candied, spicy, and peppery. You might virtually think about having fun with this eau-de-vie with some strong Indian delicacies. The bitter almond be aware makes a comeback within the aftertaste. Feedback: I’m undecided whether or not it’s oak or beech—the Domaine makes use of each for his or her eaux-de-vie—however the result’s fairly thunderous (replace: it’s oak). Naturally, we like it.
SGP: 672 – 90 factors. |
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Alright, I feel we’ll attempt to add extra aged wine eaux-de-vie and marcs matured in wooden to our cognac or armagnac tastings over the subsequent few months.
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