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| Hello, that is one in all our (nearly) every day tastings. Santé! |
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September 22, 2024
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A phrase of warning
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are completed from the perspective of a malt whisky fanatic who, what’s extra, is aboslutely not an knowledgeable in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or some other spirits. Thanks – and peace! |
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A number of extra nice Cognacs
We had been actually happy with the cognacs we tried final week, so we determined to have extra earlier than Whisky Dwell Paris subsequent weekend. In any case, Whisky Dwell can be Cognac Dwell, Rum Dwell, Armagnac Dwell, Shochu Dwell, Pals Dwell, and thoughts you, Daiquiri Dwell. Which is one other story altogether – see you there if I’m nonetheless alive!
The “Ban de la Distillation” pageant, which marks the beginning of the distillation season, will happen on the twenty fifth and twenty sixth of October this 12 months, in and round Cognac. (Grand:Cognac)
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ABK6 ‘XO’ (40%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2023) 
I consider we have gone by means of your complete vary this 12 months, although this XO, at a somewhat modest power, had been notably absent till now. Color: gold. Nostril: beautiful, very fruity, and initially fairly contemporary, earlier than extra honey and maple syrup step in to clean issues out, giving it a extra pastry-like character. The maple syrup turns into more and more pronounced—top-quality stuff, after all. Mouth: whereas the 40% ABV is a tad irritating, it stays completely acceptable right here, as that very good maple syrup continues to dominate, with a contact of caramel and pancake sauce (molasses and corn syrup) following intently behind. Some darkish chocolate and occasional then introduce a touch of bitterness, although the fruit stays somewhat shy. End: medium size, with walnut cake and some raisins, rounded off by a beneficiant dollop of caramel within the aftertaste. Feedback: maybe not one for the malt purists in spite of everything, however it’s definitely an honest drop, no query.
SGP:630 – 81 factors. |
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Drouet ‘VSOP’ (40%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2022)
A traditional home with a 40-hectare property and a very good fame. The eaux-de-vie listed below are stated to be between 5 and 10 years previous, so we are able to count on a sure freshness. Color: gold. Nostril: fairly the other of the earlier one, with extra character and greener fruits (apple), even a touch of contemporary rubber, which is somewhat satisfying. There’s additionally a contact of orange marmalade. Regardless of the decrease power, we’re a lot nearer to the form of Cognac that may enchantment to malt drinkers, in my view. Mouth: beautiful pressure, with contemporary and stewed fruits, even some jam and liqueur (peach, apricot), and a contact of caramel however not an excessive amount of. There’s additionally a little bit of black tea, maybe Earl Gray. End: just a little quick however contemporary, with out feeling immature. It turns into extra drying because it goes on, which prices it a number of factors in my guide. Feedback: a pleasing little VSOP, with some malt-like qualities, although different sides are much less so. We’ll have to trace down some extra ‘upmarket’ releases at WL Paris.
SGP:551 – 80 factors. |
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Guillaume Duluc ‘VSOP Lot 19’ (67.6%, Genuine Spirits, single cask, Grande Champagne, 2024) 
67%? Are they making an attempt to assassinate some poor blogger? This might value them dearly. As for ‘Lot 19’, we assume it is 2019 and never 1919 (pointless remark, I do know). Color: white wine. Nostril: natural, with apple and pear skins, greengages, gooseberries, a contact of vanilla, and marzipan. Appears somewhat good, however we’re in determined want of water. With water: sensible, now the skins and seeds come by means of, which we fairly like. Proof that we’re not holding a grudge (given the ABV). Severely, there’s additionally earth, hints of the primary rain, and a little bit of kernel (I do know what you’re considering). Mouth (neat): it burns just a little, very a lot within the territory of ‘new make straight from the receiver’, with only a trace of vanilla. Apart from that, it’s pear, pear, and extra pear. Truthful sufficient. With water: it opens up instantly, turning into barely liquorice-like, with a faint contact of aniseed, and even a little bit of pink grapefruit and orange blossom honey. Magical! End: lengthy, contemporary, with a touch of salinity that pairs fantastically with the liquorice. Feedback: we’re used to tasting very previous cognacs, and we received’t complain about that, however stumbling upon younger gems like this can be a pleasure. Simply you’ll want to price range for additional water. Between 40% and 67%, I have to admit… I nonetheless desire 67%.
SGP:661 – 86 factors. |
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Non-public Bottling ‘Lot 89’ (57.4%, Malternative Belgium for Cavavin Belval, Petite Champagne, 120 bottles, 2023)
An nameless bouilleur de cru bottling for Luxembourg, by way of Malternative Belgium. Not solely are the Belgians snapping up our best cognacs—can’t blame them for that—however now the Luxembourgers are getting in on the motion too. Color: amber with purple hues. Nostril: some similarities with the younger one we simply tasted, however after all this one is far more mature, although nonetheless contemporary and fruity, with marzipan, kirsch, almond, and a light-weight contact of icing sugar and Calvados. With water: completely no change, so it can save you your water this time, except you simply wish to tame it a bit. Mouth (neat): splendidly rustic. Ripe grapes, apple juice, sloe berries, quince brandy… this one actually speaks! With water: nonetheless strong and earthy, proper up my avenue. The ‘parlour cognacs’ could be a bit boring as compared. Right here you’ve bought baked apples, roasted pears, and an entire medley of fruit eaux-de-vie, not simply kirsch. Quince certainly, for instance. End: lengthy and nonetheless delightfully rustic. Playful sugary and medicinal notes within the aftertaste, nearly Japanese in fashion. Feedback: fairly very good, and the way great that this cask wasn’t blended.
SGP:561 – 86 factors.
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Vaudon ‘Lot 75/78/80’ (54.2%, Grape of the Artwork, Fins Bois, 2024) 
Vaudon appears to be related with François Voyer and specialize in Fins Bois. We’ve already loved two or three glorious Vaudons. Color: darkish gold. Nostril: the everyday apples and pears from this area (at the very least in response to my humble expertise), together with herbs, hay, natural teas, and melon pores and skin. With water: honey and dried fruits are available so as to add a bit extra roundness. There are additionally some good touches of beeswax, wooden polish, contemporary mastic, and balsa… actually a stunning nostril. Mouth (neat): apples and pears stay entrance and centre, however now we’ve bought crème de menthe, liquorice, elegant previous wooden, cedar, and even a number of tiny mushrooms. With water: it loves water, so be at liberty so as to add a beneficiant splash. It’s like getting two bottles for the worth of 1! Honeyed apples and pears, tinned plums, nonetheless that charming previous wooden, and notes of pollen… End: a number of touches of cappuccino, resulting in a coffee-schnapps vibe. Feedback: this multi-vintage is great as effectively. And I guarantee you, it holds regular even at 25% ABV with out batting an eyelid.
SGP:651 – 88 factors. |
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Famille Cabanne ‘Lot no.79’ (62.5%, Passie voor Whisky, Bons Bois, 2024) 
Sure, the Dutch are in on it too. Thrilled to have a Bons Bois, and let’s hope we come across extra Bois Ordinaires as effectively, even only for enjoyable. Color: amber. Nostril: there’s plenty of fuss across the Cognac Crus, however it’s clear {that a} well-crafted Bons Bois by expert vignerons-distillers is much extra thrilling than some mass-produced Grandes Champagnes that’ll transfer you as a lot as the most recent Oasis observe. These wafts of sandalwood and overripe apples are merely chic. With water: top-tier praline, someplace between nougat and roasted almonds. An irresistible nostril. Mouth (neat): wealthy, nearly syrupy, like a grand Sauternes. Assume apple icewine (or ice cider?) as they make in Canada, peach liqueur, rowanberry eau-de-vie… You get the concept. With water: actually a powerful cognac. Easy and stylish, merely chic (I sound like an ‘80s brochure, I do know). End: lengthy, wealthy, nearly oily, but with totally wild magnificence. Feedback: I haven’t had time to test, however I could have tasted an excellent Bons Bois earlier than, maybe from Grosperrin, however I’m genuinely impressed right here. Didn’t see this coming, actually.
SGP:651 – 91 factors. |
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Vallein Tercinier ‘Lot n°71’ (54.1%, OB for Flickenschild, Petite Champagne, 2024)
And now the Germans… And people featherlight labels from VT—at all times giving off that “what’s contained in the bottle is what issues” vibe! In the meantime, so many spirit bottles scream the other… however one doesn’t exclude the opposite, does it? Color: amber. Nostril: cocoa, hazelnut unfold (certainly, Nutella), almond and hazelnut liqueurs, halva, nougat, sesame oil, milk chocolate… This one nearly feels a bit indulgent, however it’s practically unimaginable to withstand. With water: a touch of marmalade joins the get together, nearly like in an previous Dalmore. Mouth (neat): the place there was hazelnut and chocolate on the nostril, now we’ve bought cooked, jammy, and contemporary fruits—unique ones, too, combined with sultanas. Mangoes and sultanas, what a combo! There are even drops of Muscat wine. With water: it’s grand, it’s simple, nearly refreshing. Okay, perhaps I’m pushing it there. End: lengthy and deeply fruity, with an exquisite array of contemporary herbs and spices that evenly tickle your senses. Feedback: this time, we should admit we noticed it coming.
SGP:651 – 91 factors. |
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Tiffon ‘V.45’ (45.2%, Outdated Grasp Spirit, Petite Champagne, 2023)
And now the Australians… 60 years in a moist cellar at Tiffon’s, adopted by about 20 years in a demi-john. It’s essential to notice that this charming child was distilled simply after the battle, so it’s attainable that the ‘V’ within the title stands for ‘Victory’ somewhat than ‘Classic’. Only a little bit of hypothesis… Color: reddish amber. Nostril: splendidly traditional, with peaches poached in Sauternes, apricot tarte, and maybe a small glass of the identical Sauternes on the aspect. I’d swear there’s a contact of botrytis right here, however let’s not get too fancy. In any case, that is the proper dessert—maybe with a scoop of artisan vanilla ice cream? Mouth: completely magical freshness and fruitiness. On the earth of malt whisky, this jogs my memory of the very previous Balblairs from G&M, say, Fifties distillations. It’s dazzlingly fruity—a lot in order that there’s no have to listing all of them, they’re simply ‘contemporary fruits’. Within the background, tiny hints of nuts, bouillon, tobacco, jams, candied fruits, and cooked wines… however that’s simply the age speaking. Ouah! (French equal of ‘wow!’) End: not everlasting—its solely tiny flaw, maybe—however irresistibly fruity to the very finish. Feedback: very, very, very, very, very nice Petite Champagne. The epitome of a malternative spirit.
SGP:751 – 93 factors. |
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Dring-dring, final one, let’s make it one other Bons Bois please…
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Vallein Tercinier ‘Lot 55 Arôme Exquis’ (41.50%, Malternative Belgium, Bons Bois, 2024)
A really early rock-and-roll Cognac, transferred to demijohns in 2010, that means it needs to be round 54 years previous, give or take. Bear in mind, vintages seek advice from the harvest 12 months, they usually should distill inside a reasonably quick window—they’ll’t sit on the wines ceaselessly. Color: full gold. Nostril: get out of right here, that is ridiculously fruity, refined, almondy, waxy—you may nearly mistake it for an unpeated early Nineteen Seventies Clynelish. Plum tart dusted with grated cinnamon. An unbelievable nostril, with a blinding honeyed aspect. Mouth: as anticipated, the palate doesn’t fairly hit these ‘out of this world’ heights, and maybe that’s why they transferred it to demijohns 15 years in the past, because the power was seemingly getting a bit low. Nevertheless it’s nonetheless stunningly stunning, filled with ripe apples, wild berries, notably dried blackberries, and dried jujubes. End: that is the place it turns into extra anecdotal. Nice, with dried fruits and a touch of mint, although it’s not the half you’ll bear in mind tomorrow morning. Barely inexperienced tea within the aftertaste. Feedback: the nostril alone is price 93-94 factors for me. It’s no marvel they named it ‘arôme exquis’.
SGP:661 – 90 factors. |
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