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Hello, that is one in every of our (nearly) day by day tastings. Santé! |
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November 25, 2024
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A Few Tomintouls
Tomintoul was often known as “the light dram,” nevertheless it should be mentioned that these days, there have been some somewhat potent ones. And some which might be fairly closely influenced by wine – however that’s a development affecting many distilleries today. Certainly, we’re laying it on a bit thick…
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Tomintoul 10 yo (40%, OB, +/-2023)
We final sampled this amiable 10-year-old again in 2018, and it carried out somewhat decently (WF 78). Color: straw. Nostril: a delicate fruity profile, leaning closely on apples and pears at first, then segueing right into a extra floral character with a contact of candy barley. It feels as if it’s turn into a tad easier, but one way or the other extra fulfilling, balanced, and, properly… sort. That pretty ex-bourbon softness shines via. It does the job, and albeit, the world may use a bit extra kindness today. Mouth: mild on the palate, providing notes of cornflakes alongside apple, a whisper of liquorice, and a faint trace of lurking lavender. End: brief, with a gentle honeyed contact and a faintly bitter edge in direction of the tip—however isn’t that the destiny of many younger, entry-level Speysiders? Feedback: maybe a slight enchancment for the reason that final outing. There’s even a faint resemblance to Glenmorangie 10 (not too long ago changed by a 12).
SGP:441 – 79 factors. |
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Tomintoul 12 yo 2011/2023 (40%, OB, oloroso sherry cask end, 14,400 bottles)
The modest ABV suggests restrained ambitions right here. Color: gold. Nostril: a contact of an previous toolbox at first, adopted by the anticipated walnuts and a touch of Barbour grease. Then, very similar to within the 10-year-old, these acquainted apples and pears make a reappearance. It’s a beautiful nostril, well-constructed and alluring. Mouth: a pleasing opening with citrus becoming a member of the aromas already famous, however the low energy causes it to lose momentum, introducing extra bitter and natural notes. Suppose English breakfast tea—sans the cloud of milk—and a sprinkling of cocoa powder. One can’t assist however really feel this is able to sing higher at 43%, although that chorus does develop a bit tiresome, does it not. End: pretty brief, with tea and citrus peels, maybe Earl Gray. Fortunately, it’s much less bitter than feared, with a pleasant trace of marmalade within the aftertaste lifting it properly. Feedback: completely fulfilling.
SGP:341 – 80 factors. |
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Tomintoul ‘Pinot Noir Cask End’ (40%, OB, +/-2023)
Holy Suzy, a Pinot Noir end and NAS—brace yourselves! Color: white wine. Nostril: the palest Pinot Noir whisky I’ve ever encountered. Maybe they used Pinot Noir grapes with minimal maceration, pressed shortly with nearly no pores and skin contact, producing one thing extra akin to a white wine, very similar to a Champagne blanc de noirs. Fortunately, there’s no hint of stems, blackcurrants, cherries, or raspberries right here. As an alternative, we’re greeted with vanilla, ripe plums, raisin pastries, and juicy mirabelles. Fairly nice, actually. Mouth: uh-oh, right here comes the Pinot Noir affect. Grape seeds, skins, stems, inexperienced tea, and ginger make themselves recognized. End: a lot the identical—inexperienced pepper and a contact of tannic bitterness. Feedback: the palate feels worlds other than the somewhat charming nostril.
SGP:351 – 75 factors. |
Let’s transfer on to independents and bear in mind that they’ve a bonus because of their a lot increased bottling energy – usually.
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Tomintoul 13 yo 2010/2024 (56.1%, Dràm Mor, first fill PX hogshead end, cask #900142, 218 bottles)
Color: Gold. Nostril: a finely managed ending, as is usually (if not at all times) the case with Dràm Mor. Pecan pie with a contact of earthiness and tobacco, alongside a touch of plums which may not have absolutely ripened. Slightly charming, actually. With water: and right here come the sultanas, loud and clear. Mouth (neat): a lot gentler on the palate, nearly syrupy, paying homage to a high-putts Tokaji. Nothing to do with golf, after all. Apricot and orange jam sprinkled with a fragile pinch of ras-el-hanout spice. With water: wonderful, with a beautiful addition of pepper to this distinctly Moroccan-inspired combine. End: lengthy and clean, mercifully free from the bitterness that so typically lingers in PX-boosted malts. They should have some secret trick. Feedback: a somewhat splendid success—right here’s a younger Tomintoul that actually speaks.
SGP:641 – 86 factors. |
The identical components, the identical manoeuvre, the identical battle…
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Tomintoul 13 yo 2010/2024 (56.4%, Alistair Walker Rare Flyers, for Taiwan, PX hogshead, cask #804809, 340 bottles)
Color: darkish amber. Nostril: ah, right here we go—this one’s decidedly chocolatey, leaning in direction of Mars bars, with an abundance of raisins and a beautiful contact of pipe tobacco. There’s a whisper of menthol and a faint streak of turpentine within the background, which retains issues attention-grabbing. It then turns charmingly Scottish, with creamy butterscotch and a correct slice of millionaire’s shortbread. A basic profile, freed from missteps. With water: little change, and that’s hardly a difficulty right here—that is completely composed for a younger Speysider with a PX end. There’s even a candy little dunnage-like notice that’s fairly endearing. Mouth (neat): a more in-depth sibling to the opposite 2010, it’s spicy and jammy, with an ample dollop of demerara sugar and maple syrup drizzled over plump Corinthian raisins. Once more, not a false notice in sight. With water: spot-on for the model, bringing out chocolate and freshly floor espresso. End: lengthy and a contact drier than the opposite 2010, however each bit its equal. Feedback: splitting hairs can be required to say one was higher than the opposite—each are very good examples.
SGP:651 – 86 factors. |
One final one, that may make it 3 OB and three IB. Neat and tidy.
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Tomintoul 17 yo 2006/2023 (50%, Hunter Laing, Outdated Malt Cask twenty fifth Anniversary, refill butt, 222 bottles)
To have a good time 25 years of this iconic collection, the present house owners have introduced out a variety of malts dressed within the authentic packaging—what we would name a ‘duplicate’ bottle. I can’t assist however suppose that whisky fans or our successors right here at WF (will we now have any?) in 30 or 40 years may discover these considerably complicated to catalogue. However sufficient musings; let’s style this Tomintoul, with extra Speysiders from this collection (Glen Grant, Benrinnes, and so on.) to observe within the coming weeks. Color: gold. Nostril: the glory of refill casks, introduced into sharp focus against this with the PX finishes we’ve simply sampled. Barley sacks, contemporary croissants, farmhouse cider, a small glass of Meursault, a couple of drops of manzanilla, walnut wine, and contemporary hay… Merely good. Fairly the shock, I have to say. With water: waxy notes and a contact of robustness. Nonetheless light but structured. Mouth (neat): walnut and orange wine, delicate ale, artisanal cider, ripe apples, fir honey, a touch of pine sap, and a drop of lemon juice… Once more, simply good. With water: nonetheless good. End: lengthy and nearly refreshing, with apple and citrus juice, and a contact of dry, elegant sherry within the aftertaste. Feedback: it feels as if this cask was chosen with nice care—not that this wouldn’t often be the case, nevertheless it’s particularly evident right here. Improbable and even a bit shocking. T.o.m.i.n.t.o.u.l.!
SGP:551 – 90 factors. |
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