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| Hello, that is one in all our (nearly) each day tastings. Santé! |
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December 22, 2024
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A phrase of warning
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are executed from the viewpoint of a malt whisky fanatic who, what’s extra, is aboslutely not an skilled in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or some other spirits. Thanks – and peace! |
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A number of extra wonderful rums
for Christmas
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It’s winter. Throughout the huge, frozen Alsatian landscapes, the place the pristine whiteness of snow blends with the dancing shadows of frost-covered vineyards, the wind rises in a wild symphony. It howls, slips via the naked vines, whips the snowy ridges, carrying with it an historic echo: the distant howling of wolves. Nicely, simply kidding—the climate’s truly fairly nice throughout this festive season. However that’s no excuse to not heat ourselves up with a number of summery rums chosen roughly randomly. With apéritif, naturally…
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Montebello 3 yo ‘Rhum Vieux Agricole’ (42%, OB, Guadeloupe, 2022) 
The bottle proudly shows its Guadeloupe Geographical Indication (IG). That is a kind of French distilleries we don’t come throughout fairly often, however then we’re however humble whisky geeks, are we not. Color: gold. Nostril: that is somewhat singular, with a caramelised sugar facet, muscovado, and above all, it’s closely marked by jasmine and wisteria. Notes of barely earthy honey and candy woodruff comply with. It definitely has character. Mouth: the nostril carries via to the palate, notably with jasmine tea and recent cane juice, then sweet sugar and lightweight aniseed touches. The profile is recent and somewhat uncommon. End: of medium size, leaning extra in direction of bitter orange with a touch of lavender and tar. At all times a contact of anise. Feedback: I actually get pleasure from this uncommon profile.
SGP:552 – 84 factors. |
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Black Tot ‘Grasp Blender’s Reserve 2024’ (54.5%, Elixir Distillers, blended rum) 
A really British mix, that includes Jamaican, Barbadian, Guyanese, and… Caroni! The 2023 version was somewhat wonderful, the 2022 as properly, and the 2021 was fairly pleasant. Color: gold. Nostril: it opens with cane juice, nearly like an agricole, earlier than transferring in direction of the oily and tarry notes typical of those islands, although softened and extra restrained than in your traditional Jamaican or Trinidadian examples (although these are by no means actually ‘traditional,’ are they). Barbados appears so as to add the sweetness and kindness (with bananas and pineapples). Nonetheless, I’m not sure which nation contributes these pretty roasted peanut notes. With water: little change, maybe a drop of lapsang souchong tea. Mouth (neat): balances usually shift on the palate, and that’s the case right here, as liquorice, tar, and even salt take the lead this time. Extra demerara sugar, roasted bananas, and stranger honeys emerge. With water: it rounds out, whereas extra stewed citrus fruits seem. End: of medium size, considerably even softer. Cane juice returns within the aftertaste, joined by orange juice. Feedback: very well-balanced, which appears completely suited to a rum for sailors, doesn’t it.
SGP:652 – 87 factors. |
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Black Tot ‘Historic Solera’ (46.2%, Elixir Distillers, blended rum, 2024) 
That is ‘aged in a sherry solera system’. It seems there are three criaderas. Color: copper amber. Nostril: I’ll shock a number of associates, however I imagine that is precisely how brandies de Jerez ought to categorical themselves. The mix clearly delivers notes of sulphur (stone), tar, and recent rubber, but I discover it really works completely. Additionally prunes, mussels, seawater, and gasoline oil… It’s somewhat uncommon, however I like it. Mouth: it’s nearly like chewing on a brand new rubber boot, with pepper, tobacco, PX, and barely acidic espresso—which is pleasant. End: lengthy, peppery, pretty smoky, with hints of tomato leaf and cassis buds. Prunes. Feedback: totally unbelievable, but completely wonderful. Boldly executed, somewhat like it…
SGP:562 – 88 factors. |
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Appleton 15 yo ‘Black River Casks’ (43%, OB, Jamaica, +/-2024)
A pot nonetheless and column rum, aged—or extra seemingly re-racked—in ex-casks from their sister distillery, Wild Turkey in Lawrenceburg. We already love the simple Appleton ‘Signature’. Color: deep gold. Nostril: that is actually very lovely, very elegant, nearly discreet however with a somewhat evident ‘pot nonetheless’ character, orange cake, and certainly a bourbon-like facet (vanilla and mild varnish), together with pretty touches of rubber once more (bicycle inside tube), mocha, and mandarins with a touch of honey. Mouth: we feared it would really feel a bit weak, however by no means—it’s simply tender, recent, and chic. Jaffa desserts, honey, praline, and a contact of salted liquorice that highlights its Jamaican origin. It dips a bit afterwards, because of the decrease power, however let’s not exaggerate—it holds up very properly. End: barely brief, with roasted nuts and a touch of honeyed marmalade. Feedback: very good, even when I choose the ‘Signature’, which is purer and extra direct.
SGP:551 – 85 factors. |
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Neisson ‘Zetwal Sirius’ (49.2%, OB, LMDW Foundations, Martinique, 2024) 
A mix of self rums distilled in Savalle column nonetheless between 2001 and 2013. The value could be very excessive (€2K), however as soon as empty, the bottle will make a stunning vase. Simply joking, however I completely a-do-red the 2023 model of this Zetwal (WF 93). As a reminder, in Creole, Zetwal = étoile = star. Color: deep gold. Nostril: that is actually an fragrant bomb, full of recent and dried fruits, white and milk chocolate, yellow flowers, positive chardonnay (together with prime champagne from the Côte des Blancs), tender spices round caraway, and all issues almond-related (biscuits, lotions, oils, whatnot). There are numerous smaller aromas—herbs, flowers, spices, citrus—that merely want a bit time to unfold. In brief, not a rum for savages (simply kidding). Mouth: I don’t assume I would like so as to add a lot—that is merely one of many best ‘fashionable’ rums of the second. All the things we discovered on the nostril carries via to the palate, with just a bit extra room for citrus and woody spices. End: lengthy, easy, nonetheless on citrus and wooden (cedar, oak, sandalwood). A woodier aftertaste. Feedback: as our expensive grandmothers used to say, the worth is forgotten, however the high quality stays. This new Zetwal ‘Sirius’ feels only a contact woodier in comparison with final yr’s, nevertheless it’s nonetheless completely top-notch.
SGP:662 – 91 factors. |
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PS: Possibly somebody ought to have talked about the well-known Dalmore 1967 ‘Sirius’ to them—the one which led all our English-speaking associates to crack that cheeky little joke when it was launched: “Are you Sirius?” However hey, I am simply saying—on the finish of the day, the standard is exceptionally excessive.
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Rhum J.M 8 yo 2016/2024 (56.7%, OB, Martinique, LMDW Foundations, American oak, cask #150472)
It should be mentioned, La Maison du Whisky has launched a formidable assortment of rums this autumn. J.M has pursued a really lively cask coverage for a while now, with outcomes that appear somewhat convincing regardless of an inclination to show fairly a little bit of pencil shavings. The label specifies ‘single cask’, however relaxation assured, it’s certainly a ‘fût distinctive’, ha. Color: deep gold. Nostril: once more, it should be mentioned, the closely charred American oak and agricole rum work properly collectively, nearly doubling the variety of ripe mangoes, equally ripe bananas, and all these unique fruits we so love. Add manuka honey, pine and cedar wooden, together with liquorice wooden. With water: it softens additional, with maple syrup and a stunning earthy, mentholated facet. Mouth (neat): wealthy, spicy, and really oaky, although not in a foul means. Daring ginger and cinnamon, then Russian-style black tea. Bananas and citrus stay quietly within the background, whereas pine wooden takes centre stage. With water: as is commonly the case, water steps in to revive order, placing the flavours again of their locations. The woody facet, which could have appeared extreme, now feels higher built-in. End: lengthy, softer. A little bit of camphor, liquorice… and nonetheless fairly a little bit of cedar wooden. Feedback: very a lot within the fashionable model. I discover this superb.
SGP:561 – 86 factors. |
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WIRD 2 yo 2022/2024 ‘Excessive Ester’ (59%, Planteray, Barbados, Whisky Stay 2024, 300 bottles)
The West Indies Rum Distillery, by far the biggest distillery in Barbados, has belonged to Cognac Ferrand since 2017. This rum is double-distilled in a pot nonetheless (a duplicate of an previous John Dore). I’m not precisely positive what ester stage we’re coping with right here, however let’s method it with out preconceptions. Color: pale gold. Nostril: undoubtedly high-ester in model, with simply the correct quantity of rubber boots, coal tar, cider vinegar, olives, and antiseptic. Within the background, the anticipated overripe bananas and crushed black pepper. With water: it barely calms down, nonetheless holding onto peppery rubber notes. Mouth (neat): very highly effective, with a extremely peppery model that units it aside from Jamaican high-esters, then leaning extra in direction of a rooty profile (gentian, wild carrot) whereas passing via very ripe unique fruits (bordering on ammonia—we love that). With water: it ‘scrapes’ a bit now, which we additionally get pleasure from. Roots and pepper plus lemon peel. End: lengthy, with a fino-like edge. Basalt, recent walnuts, brine, varnish, and orange cake. Feedback: its two years of age have by no means been a problem. An excellent various to the Jamaicans and the grand-arômes from France.
SGP:562 – 86 factors. |
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Diamond 20 yo 2003/2024 (51.6% The Roots, Guyana, bourbon cask, 174 bottles)
Ex-French Savalle column (in copper), which might counsel an ‘Uitvlugt’ origin. Color: copper amber. Nostril: that is nearly solely about olives! And God is aware of we love olives. Magnificent black tapenade (with anchovies, after all). With water: lovage and prunes are available in to finish the image. An amusing mixture. Mouth (neat): very uncommon, barely astringent, loaded with peppered chocolate this time, with some paint-like notes excessive. With water: the water dissolves the whole lot and brings out a lot gentler stewed fruits. Apple compote with liquorice, a pinch of salt, and a drop of tequila. End: pretty lengthy, with a touch of turpentine. That too dissolves the paint. Mocha and really darkish tea. Feedback: bonus factors for the originality of the profile.
SGP:462 – 87 factors. |
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Hampden ‘Nice Home Distillery Version 2024’ (57%, OB, Jamaica)
Earlier editions had been nothing in need of excellent, extremely emblematic of the Hampden model, transcending marques, ages, and vintages. In concept, there’s no cause why 2024 ought to be any completely different, is there? So, let’s get straight to it… Color: straw. Nostril: somewhat light however full of all its traditional attributes—fermented fruits, acetone, varnish, olives, seawater, tar, and carbon. With water: small touches of white radish and molasses be part of the combo. Mouth (neat): salted liquorice, sharper apple juice, lemon juice, varnish, and brine. With water: related, with the addition of a bit cane sugar and pepper. A touch of glutamate and clove. End: lengthy, salty, peppery, maritime, and tarry. Feedback: the proper Christmas reward for individuals who love rum however haven’t but found the Jamaican ‘high-ester’ model. Oh expensive, it appears I’ve simply made a purchase order advice… I’m sorry. This version feels a contact softer than the others, I imagine.
SGP:463 – 89 factors. |
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New Yarmouth 30 yo 1994/2024 (67.6%, FRC, Jamaica, 199 bottles)
Matured in Jamaica for the primary 24 years, I suppose this qualifies as ‘tropical ageing’. Bear in mind FRC = Flensburg Rum Firm, Flensburg being a German metropolis that’s ‘nearly in Denmark’. Will they ever forgive me for writing that? Color: darkish amber. Nostril: lovage and pipe tobacco, then thyme honey, maple syrup, and previous Armagnac. Hints of tar. There’s a surprisingly compact facet right here, however let’s not neglect—67.6% ABV—an additional testomony to tropical ageing. With water: cherry and fir resin, fig tree sap. Cautious, fig tree sap is poisonous on contact. Mouth (neat): cough syrup at cask power. It stings a bit, I admit. Concentrated lemon, recent tarmac, and excessive pepper. Fast… With water: it stays very concentrated, thick, drier, spicier, and woodier too, however nonetheless inside greater than acceptable limits for me. End: very lengthy, dry, nearly austere. Bitter chocolate, pepper, and salted liquorice. Honey and orange zest convey a contact of sweetness within the aftertaste. Feedback: I like it, nevertheless it’s precisely the other of a ‘excellent Christmas reward for individuals who get pleasure from rum however don’t but know the Jamaican high-ester model.’ Sorry, ite Missa est, that is most likely extra a ‘connoisseur’s rum’, no matter which means.
SGP:472 – 90 factors. |
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 Test the index of all rums we have tasted to date
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