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Dwelling
Hundreds of tastings,
all of the music,
all of the rambligs
and all of the enjoyable
(hopefully!)
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| Hello, that is one among our (nearly) day by day tastings. Santé! |
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January 1, 2025
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A small line-up of Clynelish, vertically organized, to have fun the New Yr
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With out ‘Secret Highlands’ which may—or won’t—be Clynelish. We merely could not begin the 12 months with out a few Clynelish, you see, and with out asking ourselves a query that is elementary for us however most likely of little curiosity to the remainder of the world: “Does Brora’s relaunch forged a little bit of a shadow over Clynelish?” Contemplate yourselves warned.
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Somewhat glimpse of paradise—Italy, round 2004 (WF Archive) |
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Clynelish 10 yo 2011/2021 (60.2%, Timeless & Tasty, Whiskies & Extra, barrel, cask #800313, 234 bottles) 
A bottling from Hong Kong. Color: straw. Nostril: it opens with crushed slate and apple compote earlier than shifting in the direction of grist and husks, evoking a way of wandering by means of the distillery itself. With water: damp chalk, bandages, camphor, embrocations and plasticine—the hallmark has arrived. Mouth (neat): these vintages lean closely in the direction of fruit, however right here it’s extra about sharp apple and lemon with barely uncommon medicinal notes. Nonetheless, at this power, it’s a contact early to attract agency conclusions. With water: pure Clynelish, simply evenly mentholated and mildly aniseed. End: lengthy, with citrus firmly taking cost. Feedback: 1. purchase by the case, 2. lay down for 30 years. Deep affection for this profile.
SGP:562 – 88 factors. |
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Clynelish 13 yo 2010/2024 (56.6%, The Single Malts of Scotland Reserve Casks, Elixir Distillers for LMDW, bourbon barrel, cask #800188, 207 bottles)
Color: white wine. Nostril: it opens with recent cement and damp chalk, adopted by a touch of the seaside not removed from the distillery and ending with inexperienced apples and a kind of fruity earthiness. Little or no wax at this stage. With water: austere, leaning in the direction of minimize grass and much more cement, although the apples have ripened. Mouth (neat): very Clynelish this time, beginning with paraffin, then rising salinity and touches of varnish and mustard, more and more evoking the West Coast—Ben N. type—which is actually no unhealthy factor. With water: basic Clynelish! A contact of beer, candle wax, mandarin, inexperienced pepper and a notably oily texture. End: lengthy and oily, with these beautiful mandarins and a touch of jasmine tea. Feedback: a real dialog in your glass. Fascinating and wonderful. Ultimately, it turns into very near the 2011, which can shock nobody.
SGP:562 – 88 factors. |
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Let’s soar ahead greater than 15 years, however we’re again round Hong Kong…
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Clynelish 27 yo 1997/2024 (47.2%, The Antelope Macau, fifth Anniversary, refill hogshead) 
Very superb vintages once they’re not too influenced by sherry—let’s see what these Aristocats on the label have to supply. Color: deep gold. Nostril: few issues can rival the candied citrons present in these Clynelish. Neither the nuts (sherry, naturally), nor the beeswax, nor the recent fougasse. One bows in reverence… Mouth: what stability! An ideal instance of a sherry (I believe it’s refill sherry) that provides complexity with out overshadowing the distillate within the slightest. And what a distillate! Orange zest, pollen, little violet-flavoured sweets, hints of earth, loads of wax in fact, a tiny drop of superb Sauternes, and ever-present citrus, particularly easy squeezed orange. I’m completely smitten with this one. End: lengthy and extra earthy, with touches of truffles and morels, together with these marvellous oranges peeled in honey and olive oil that all the time win common approval. Black pepper lingers within the aftertaste. Feedback: the age is ideal. Hope we’ll preserve discovering these below the Distillery’s banner.
SGP:651 – 90 factors. |
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Clynelish 30 yo 1993/2023 (42.1%, Halcyon Spirit, casks #11082 + 11104, 154 bottles)
An intriguing vatting, maybe carried out to ‘enhance’ a cask that had dropped a bit of too low in ABV. It’s all the time fascinating and sometimes elegant when it comes to outcomes. Didn’t Springbank typically do that again within the day? Color: pale gold. Nostril: it’s outstanding—although maybe not stunning—how a lot this leans in the direction of the early Seventies type, with these ripe outdated apples and, above all, the whole lot that comes from a beehive, beginning with beeswax but in addition pollen, pinewood, honey and propolis. Within the background, there’s recent paint and putty. Watch your fingers (S.!) Mouth: the oak is barely extra current, with black tea and crushed pepper, however the wax and outdated apples quickly reclaim management, accompanied by a contact of turpentine and menthol. The propolis is much more pronounced than on the nostril. End: medium size, leaning extra in the direction of pine needles and, once more, propolis. A touch of juniper. Feedback: it’s magnificent and at no level do you would like for extra watts. It quite calls to thoughts a really outdated pianist who nonetheless masters Chopin in addition to ever—if not higher.
SGP:651 – 91 factors. |
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We’re ending with this gem, one of many uncommon 98/100 on WF, however from a unique bottle than those we’ve already tasted. Any excuse to revisit these items, actually… (It was truly a Fb put up that gave me the thought, I swear!)
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Clynelish 24 yo (49.4%, Cadenhead, Sestante, +/-1989)
We’ve by no means been capable of verify whether or not this bottle was distilled in 1965 or 1966 (so pre-Brora Brora in any case). That issues as a result of it was in 1965 that Clynelish ceased utilizing its personal ground malting. Nonetheless, there’s no proof that the 1965 Cadenhead’s had been nonetheless ‘ground malted’, and we don’t know exactly which month in 1965 the distillery switched to sourced malt (most likely from Ord). I ought to add that M. Mainardi of Sestante doesn’t appear to recall this explicit bottle, but when that is ‘pretend’ Previous Clynelish, then the forgers had been absolute geniuses—bravo and thanks to them! Color: amber. Nostril: good heavens! We begin off in a luxurious shoe store, with luxurious leathers and polishes, then transfer to a storage specialising in classic vehicles (uncommon outdated instruments, engine oils, petrol, tyres), adopted by an artist’s workshop (linseed oil, paint, canvases, turpentine, varnish) and end up at a fruit service provider’s stall brimming with every kind of citrus. Mouth: we linger on the fruit service provider’s, then wander over to the tea vendor, and eventually step into an outdated church the place the pews have simply been waxed and the candles changed (these aromas translate superbly onto the palate). Past that, we’ll let your creativeness take over. End: an totally elegant finale, smoky, immensely complicated and astonishingly lengthy, with refined coffees and broths on the very finish. Truffle broth, Bocuse-style. Feedback: amusingly, I’ve simply realised we tasted this Previous Clynelish earlier than—from one other bottle—whereas celebrating New Yr 2015. In fact, we gained’t revise our closing rating regardless of the ten-year hole.
SGP:563 – 98 factors. |
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Clynelish is significant for our survival. Dinosaurs did not have Clynelish and look what occurred to them! (Could not we cease the foolish jokes in 2025, S.?) Talking of jokes, right here’s what a whisky skilled—whom we gained’t title out of Christian charity—wrote about Clynelish again within the Nineteen Nineties:
“Sadly, nonetheless, it’s not the Clynelish Distillery. It held this distinction
till 1968 however was outmoded by a box-shaped monstrosity which the outdated Scottish Malt Distillers firm thought of a worthy alternative. The whisky produced there may be, admittedly, fairly superb and extremely prized by plenty of blenders. However it isn’t a patch on the unique distillery’s make, which was fruitier and barely peatier, maybe as a result of its water got here from a unique supply.”
Candy Vishnu!
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Certainly, siince everybody appears to be after lists nowadays, this is a PDF file (within the outdated Malt-Maniacs type) that includes all of the spirits we have rated 92 factors or above in 2024:
LIST OF TOP SCORES WF 2024
Naturally, we could not resist including just a few scattered statistics and feedback beneath:
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The Scores:
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| 133 tastings acquired a rating of 92 factors or increased from Serge or Angus between 1 January and 31 December 2024, out of roughly 1,800 evaluations written through the 12 months. |
- 99 factors: 0 scores
- 98 factors: 0 scores
- 97 factors: 0 scores
- 96 factors: 1 rating
- 95 factors: 6 scores
- 94 factors: 12 scores
- 93 factors: 45 scores
- 92 factors: 69 scores
- Much less: approx 1,700 scores
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| Our Two Tasters: |
- Serge: 98 scores of 92 factors or increased
- Angus: 35 scores of 92 factors or increased
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| 4 Classes: |
- Whisky: 92 scores of 92 factors or increased
- Cognac: 15 scores of 92 factors or increased
- Rum: 12 scores of 92 factors or increased
- Armagnac: 4 scores of 92 factors or increased
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| Current Bottles vs. Previous Bottles: |
- Current Bottlings (bottled <10 years in the past): 73 scores of 92 factors or increased
- Older Bottlings (bottled >10 years in the past): 60 scores of 92 factors or increased
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| The High Whisky Distilleries: |
- Port Ellen: 15 scores of 92 factors or increased
- Ardbeg: 7 scores of 92 factors or increased
- Brora: 6 scores of 92 factors or increased
- Bunnahabhain: 5 scores of 92 factors or increased
- Caol Ila: 5 scores of 92 factors or increased
- Glen Grant: 5 scores of 92 factors or increased
- Highland Park: 5 scores of 92 factors or increased
- Lagavulin: 5 scores of 92 factors or increased
- Springbank: 5 scores of 92 factors or increased
- Ben Nevis: 4 scores of 92 factors or increased
- Bowmore: 4 scores of 92 factors or increased
- Benromach: 3 scores of 92 factors or increased
- Macallan: 3 scores of 92 factors or increased
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Reasonably important feedback:
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This record will depend on what comes our means or what we actively hunt down
It isn’t a exact reflection of the market or the general high quality of spirits, regardless that we make some extent, particularly with whiskies and even rums, of tasting a little bit of the whole lot. That stated, it’s nonetheless the highest distilleries that have a tendency to seem on this record. |
Costly Whiskies Dominate the High of the Checklist
The upper finish of the whisky record is usually occupied by whiskies which can be at the moment very costly—typically even outrageously so. No less than we are able to say that these bottles are genuinely uncommon, and we settle for that rarity typically instructions a excessive value. Relaxation assured, nonetheless, that very costly whiskies whose rarity is merely a façade, whereas their high quality stays common or simply barely above, won’t ever make it into this record. Let’s see what the upcoming pattern of “de-premiumisation” will deliver. |
Wonderful Whiskies Scoring 88–91 Factors
Understand that many whiskies scoring 88–91 factors, which are sometimes fabulous and way more reasonably priced—typically round €50—will not be, de facto, included on this record. |
Older Bottlings Proceed to Impress
After 22 years of Whiskyfun, we’re nonetheless coming throughout older bottlings that we’ve by no means tasted earlier than and that completely blow us away. We couldn’t be happier about that! |
Notable Tendencies Amongst Distilleries
Many large names solely seem on this record because of older bottlings (e.g., Ardbeg, Macallan, Bowmore, Laphroaig, Glen Grant). We hope to see this stability shift sooner or later. Some distilleries keep their rankings by means of a mixture of latest and older releases, akin to Highland Park, Bunnahabhain, Lagavulin, and Springbank—kudos to them! |
Rising Stars
New “blue chip” distilleries are rising, like Benromach and Ben Nevis, which appear to have made important progress up to now few a long time. |
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Closed Distilleries Maintain Their Standing
Prestigious closed distilleries proceed to carry their floor, and we eagerly await the return of youthful whiskies from the brand new or renewed Rosebank, Brora, and Port Ellen.
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The Absence of Clynelish
Clynelish is notably absent, largely as a result of lack of latest releases below the unique distillery’s title—an unlucky state of affairs. It is usually true that we had already tasted nearly the entire older bottlings earlier than 2024. |
New Distilleries Present Promise
New Scottish and Irish distilleries aren’t fairly at this degree but, however that’s to be anticipated. We’ll probably see them make their mark inside the subsequent ten years (e.g., Ardnahoe, Ardnamurchan, Isle of Harris, and others). |
Whiskies from Newer Areas
Whiskies from newer whisky-producing international locations are getting nearer to inclusion. Hellyers Street is already on the record, and we anticipate others will comply with within the coming years—akin to Millstone, Smögen, Cotswolds, hopefully Waterford, in addition to some smaller American, Nordic, French, and German distilleries. I am positive I am lacking different international locations. |
Japanese Whiskies
Japan is well-represented with Yoichi and Chichibu. We’re anticipating others, like Shizuoka, to affix quickly. Different large names, akin to Yamazaki and Miyagikyo, stay very shut. |
Excellent Rums
A number of rums have impressed us, notably Enmores and a few TDL from Trinidad. Different distilleries are producing huge numbers of various elegant rums (scoring 89–91) which can be prone to make it onto this record quickly—names like Hampden, Bielle, and others. Different productions stay fairly poor although, particularly some ‘new manufacturers’. |
Distinctive Cognacs and Armagnacs
There’s a good variety of cognacs and armagnacs featured, however this isn’t totally consultant since we are likely to obtain or retrieve solely the easiest examples—and even then, not all of them. In contrast to with whiskies and rums, we hardly ever style the extra on a regular basis choices in these classes. Life is brief and treasured. |
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Except for that, and extra typically:
We gained’t harp on about it, however using alien casks—and the “Doritos technique”—is turning into much more widespread, as most second-hand wine casks are actually fairly cheap. It’s value noting that some distilleries now focus nearly solely on finishings—whether or not in crimson wine casks, mizunara, STR casks, or absolutely anything else you may consider. More and more, and in contrast to what occurs in different classes akin to cognac, whisky producers are clearly prioritising age statements first utilizing ‘any lazy casks’ after which simply flavouring their distillates earlier than releasing them. Sadly, we’re beginning to see this pattern seem in rum as effectively… I need to admit we’re getting uninterested in receiving press releases asserting a so-called world-changing innovation—a brand new expression completed in mizunara! Wow! |
The waves of latest distilleries proceed—however the tide retains going out
I consider that high quality would be the key throughout these instances of low tide. The numbers had been alarming in 2024, however we gained’t repeat or analyse them as everybody else has already carried out, typically in a quite sardonic means—we’ve seen a whole lot of schadenfreude. You possibly can rely on us to help, inside our modest means, those that select to give attention to high quality. That stated, some youthful producers who spotlight their moral, native and environmentally pleasant approaches (as all of them appear to do, to be honest) might want to align their actions with their claims. |
By the best way
There are some new, extremely “branded” names, like SirDavis or Eminente, which aren’t as unhealthy in tasting as whisky geeks had feared. This marks a change from simply three years in the past, when many believed that solely branding, packaging, and low-cost storytelling mattered. Who is aware of—Beyoncé’s whisky won’t transform only a buy-once bottle in spite of everything (S., you’ve outdone your self as soon as once more!) I even suppose we’ll find yourself tasting SirDavis in 2025—simply think about that! |
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| Okay, good… |
| A number of phrases concerning the market, from my very modest viewpoint (I simply couldn’t resist). I wrote 99% of this fairly just a few weeks in the past and had by no means revealed it—maybe I ought to have caught with that call in spite of everything. Learn provided that you could, |
| Certainly social media, boards, blogs, vlogs, and podcasts are brimming with discussions concerning the state of the whisky market, and spirits usually, particularly for the reason that Scotch Whisky Affiliation launched its newest figures (exports for the primary half of 2024: -18% in worth, -10% in quantity in comparison with the primary half of 2023, which additionally signifies value pressures). It is even worse in case you take the primary 9 months under consideration – in reality, we don’t wish to know. . |
| The state of affairs varies throughout totally different markets, and commentators supply a variety of causes, together with: post-Covid results, inflationary spirals resulting in a slowdown, a shift in the direction of frugality, the fragility of previously rising markets, traits in the direction of modesty, world anxiousness, extreme premiumisation, declining alcohol consumption amongst youthful folks, the rise of different substances which supposedly ‘make you drop some pounds quite than acquire it’ – or so I’ve even heard, well being considerations, a requirement for transparency on environmental impression, rejection of greenwashing, the weariness of sure ideas and market positions, over-industrialisation, short-termism, growing mixing/ending with different wines and spirits (bastardisation of the product), native markets favouring regional choices, a extremely fragmented provide, unrestrained branding however globally an identical model visions, homogenisation of kinds resulting in the lack of what used to make manufacturers and distilleries distinctive, rising energy of the secondary market, the fetishisation of outdated bottles by lovers (buffered market), lack of qualitative markers (an age assertion can’t get replaced by a fake crystal decanter), proliferation of product references, and the pure lengthy and medium-term cycles inherent to the class, to call however just a few. Sufficient already! |
| Was this predictable, did we see it coming? We will all the time say sure, in fact, and declare that individuals had been speaking a couple of “bubble burst” for years, however hindsight makes everybody a genius. Now it’s true that we had already talked about all this right here on 1st January 2024—how we want we had been improper! In any case, it appears to me that, over the long run and in broad strokes, the phases of all this might be outlined as follows. Keep in mind, that is actually only a tough, fast, and extremely private tackle the so-called “ages” that the business itself has highlighted (particularly the Age of Innocence, in fact): |
| Our 5 Ages of malt whisky: |
- Age of Ignorance till 1985 (vacationer curiosity, cultural attraction, informal consumption).
- Age of Proof till 1995 (single malts are nice!).
- Age of Innocence till 2010 (you should buy something you need for not a lot cash! Thanks, Web).
- Age of Vanity till 2023 (together with Covid). Please observe that Angus would not fairly agree with this time period (smile). Premiumisation, organised shortage, overbranding. The rising tide lifts all boats.
- Age of Abundance till 2???. Multiplication and diversification of provide, overcapacity, new loch, reorganisation, additional lack of model loyalty, cheaper costs, higher high quality, newcomers shaking up and even overtaking the established gamers, again to core values.
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| Keys, I believe: schooling, affordable transparency, authenticity, confirmed high quality, product over branding, new belief. |
| Let’s hope this isn’t simply wishful considering. |
| We have been too lengthy once more. |
| Blissful New Yr, hugs and peace! |
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