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| Hello, that is one in every of our (nearly) every day tastings. Santé! |
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December 10, 2024
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An Abundance of Caol Ila
Caol Ila stays the primary malt when it comes to expressions tasted on WF. There are many causes for this, however one of many essential ones is that it’s all the time a pleasure to attempt Caol Ila, easy as that. Let’s check out what we now have, in no explicit order. Notice that we gained’t be together with any “secret” Caol Ilas as we speak.
That mentioned, it appears that evidently alongside the way in which, we’ll even be tasting bourbon, palo cortado, PX, rum from Barbados, Rivesaltes, amontillado, oloroso, and manzanilla. Proper.
Katrin Bremermann, ‘No.2012-2020’, enamel on waxed paper (paintings for the Caol Ila ‘Artist Collective No 7.4’)
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Caol Ila 16 yo 2007/2023 (42.4%, Minimize Your Wolf Free, Minimize Your Leftovers Free, ex-American whisky, 80 bottles) 
It appears solely 80 bottles remained within the cask, and the intriguing ABV suggests one other equally fascinating story behind this whisky. Color: straw. Nostril: completely pleasant, mild but deep, with a mode harking back to ‘Outdated Caol Ila’ from the late Nineteen Sixties or early Seventies. Assume ashes and coal, outdated paint pots, seaweed, and polished vintage furnishings, with a number of whiffs of aged crème de menthe for good measure. It is nearly like stepping right into a whisky antiquarian’s treasure trove. Mouth: resins and ashes, oysters, and seawater take centre stage, adopted by a definite charred edge and bittersweet outdated liqueurs. Vastly spectacular and little doubt a severe problem for those who had been tasting this blind. End: lengthy and extremely salty, like a malt thinned with seawater. Feedback: one thing outstanding should have occurred on this cask—maybe a story involving angels.
SGP:467 – 90 factors. |
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Caol Ila 11 yo ‘Ambrosial Feast’ (57.3%, OB, Particular Releases 2024) 
This can be a non-peated model of Caol Ila (generally known as ‘Highland Caol Ila’), now far rarer than it was some 15 years in the past. Color: gold. Nostril: barely vinegary at first, with maybe a whisper of peat, earlier than creating into notes of apple tart and honey. There’s a contact of shortbread and even a drop of beer within the background. With water: the barley shines by way of, together with a touch of mead and a contact of rubber. Mouth (neat): highly effective, with a splash of apple vinegar and a few pepper, adopted by apple cake and a bitter natural edge. With water: citrus fruits and pepper emerge, together with extra cake and a hint of ginger. End: pretty lengthy, somewhat spicy, leaning on peppery notes with a saline contact in direction of the tip. Feedback: not unhealthy in any respect, however there are dozens of different Scottish distilleries producing this model of whisky. Considerably anecdotal, actually.
SGP:551 – 82 factors. |
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Caol Ila 15 yo 2008/2024 (53.2%, The Whisky Present, Chris Bolton, 291 bottles) 
That includes TWE’s glorious Chris Bolton on the label, this bottling guarantees to ship. Color: pale gold. Nostril: traditional Caol Ila, taut and vibrant however with a agency construction, unfurling notes of mint and lemon alongside hints of shellfish and fireside smoke, with a fragile contact of mezcal. With water: a stunning mixture of cake batter and verbena emerges, with a faint backdrop of gas oil. Mouth (neat): completely glorious—no complaints right here. Lemon, pepper, seawater, oysters, and barely richer smoke than one may sometimes count on. With water: an ideal steadiness between all these parts, showcasing a uncommon mix of energy and magnificence. End: lengthy and deeply satisfying. Actually, these are whiskies which are nearly unattainable to withstand. Feedback: very good—nicely performed, Chris and gang (and the distillers within the first place, naturally).
SGP:557 – 89 factors. |
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Caol Ila 8 yo 2015/2024 (43%, Signatory Classic, LMDW, Artist Collective N°7.4, hogsheads, 6 casks, 2753 bottles) 
Caol Ila, in my expertise, is a kind of malts that may be totally good even at decrease strengths, and the oldsters at Signatory clearly know this very nicely. Color: water, nearly. Name it Islay water. Nostril: I used to be proper (sure, I’ll take that, thanks), that is very good. It instantly makes you need to seize some smoked salmon and crème fraîche to pair with this charming little Caol Ila, stuffed with smoke, lemon, ashes, and recent engine oil. Mouth: playful espresso notes add a little bit of enjoyable to the acquainted salinity and smoke. Beware, that is dangerously drinkable. If you happen to resolve to get pleasure from it over ice, maybe name your solicitor first and double-check the main points of your will. End: it holds regular, with lime and freshly lower apples bringing an much more refreshing contact. Feedback: warning, excessive danger—this bottle actually wants a warning sticker.
SGP:557 – 87 factors. |
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Caol Ila 10 yo 2011/2021 (56.4%, Ingelred, bourbon, cask #307971, 295 bottles)
– A story of Vikings, it appears, although this isn’t Highland Park; it’s unmistakably Caol Ila. In any case, Islay is brimming with Viking heritage anyway. Color: nearly white. Nostril: nicely, nicely—juniper and recent anise. If that is Viking-inspired, one may consider aquavit, no? However I need to say, this spirit is totally charming. With water: an avalanche of inexperienced apples seems. Mouth (neat): after all it’s pure, exact, surgical Caol Ila. Smoke, ashes, lemon, two whelks, and three oysters make an look. With water: a contact of espresso, tart apples, inexperienced pepper, and people ever-so-slightly rubbery ashes. End: lengthy, sharp, salty, and pinpoint correct. Feedback: it’s a bit just like the 2008 at 43%, however with (lots) extra punch.
SGP:557 – 87 factors. |
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These younger Caol Ilas are merely unstoppable. They all the time remind me of the emotion one feels the primary time they catch sight of the big stills by way of the bay window. In actual fact, it’s totally uncommon to return throughout a nasty Caol Ila—or as somebody as soon as mentioned, if it is unhealthy, then it is not Caol Ila.
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Caol Ila 11 yo 2012/2024 (59.1%, Signatory Classic, for Whisky Membership Nantais, bourbon hogshead, cask #318264, 255 bottles)
A younger Caol Ila bottled for true Breton fans (and sure, Nantes is Breton, don’t argue). Color: Pale white wine. Nostril: It is an absolute delight to dive into these younger, crystal-clear Caol Ilas, the place the distillate takes centre stage somewhat than the cask. And what a distillate it’s! Right here we now have one thing nearly akin to smoked cider apples grilled over charcoal with a stunning sprint of peat and only a faint medicinal whisper of Mercurochrome. That mentioned, do take notice—it’s nudging 60%! With water: a lot the identical, remaining splendidly elemental and pure. Mouth (neat): totally easy, and on this context, that’s a high quality in itself. Inexperienced apple, inexperienced pepper, citrus zest, and heaps of smoke and tar. With water: softens barely, bringing in ripe apples, a drizzle of honey, and a rounded nuttiness that envelopes the palate. There’s even a contact of mustard and a fino-like dryness lurking within the background. End: Lengthy, saline, and maritime to the final drop. Feedback: Proof that the phrase ‘fundamental’ is usually a badge of honour. A wonderfully centered younger Caol Ila, nonetheless enjoying within the massive leagues.
SGP: 557 – 87 factors. |
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It feels a bit like one might get pleasure from about fifteen of those and nonetheless obtain the identical excessive rating, regardless of the variations.
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Caol Ila 9 yo 2015/2024 (55.8%, James Eadie, Palo Cortado hogshead end, for the UK, cask #378486, 356 bottles)
Palo Cortado and Amontillado are simply among the many most interesting sherries for ending whisky—apart from Manzanilla, however there’s valuable little of that in ending, alas. Color: darkish gold. Nostril: a stroke of genius right here. Polished wax, used motor oil, and smoked almonds. What a surprising marriage between Caol Ila and sherry. In my e-book PX can usually spell catastrophe with peated whiskies, however Palo Cortado is simply good. With water: exhaust fumes, tarmac, and the scent of latest tyres—nearly like sure younger Port Ellens from days passed by. Mouth (neat): monstrously coherent, like chewing a cigar whereas sipping on a strong double espresso. With water: it turns into gentler, providing salted apple, oysters, crab, and even a contact of Alsatian Riesling that pairs remarkably nicely. End: dry, lengthy, more and more peppery, and totally good, with a whisper of hydrocarbons and ash trailing on the aftertaste. Feedback: if solely everybody dealt with their finishings this nicely.
SGP: 467 – 88 factors. |
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By the way in which, coming quickly on WF: round ten Port Ellens which have by no means been tasted earlier than for WF. I promise, earlier than Christmas.
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Caol Ila 22 yo 2002/2024 (52.5%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Alternative, LMDW, refill sherry, cask #14600104, 241 bottles)
Gordon & MacPhail proceed to showcase their mastery as each unbiased bottlers and seasoned whisky maturers, deciding on distinctive casks and infrequently nurturing them to brilliance. Color: pale gold. Nostril: fairly totally different from others, and it’s not simply the age. There’s far more subtlety, with notes of vegetable oils, pistachios, sunflower seeds, linseed oil, damp earth, chalk, and clay… However the hallmark Caol Ila base stays firmly intact—sea water, smoke, petrol, and even a whisper of acetone (within the tiniest doses). With water: ripe inexperienced apples make an entrance, including a pleasant brightness. Mouth (neat): an intriguing, barely sudden duality—on one aspect, salted caramels and low, on the opposite, seaweed smoke and beachside barbecue. But, all of it comes collectively gracefully, tied up with wonderful black pepper. With water: a mix of apple tart and a contact of shellfish, protecting issues playful. End: Lengthy and, as one may count on, extra mature and advanced. Feedback: gentler and rounder than others, but in addition somewhat extra advanced. The peat has softened a bit, however the whisky retains a somewhat dazzling brilliance, as one would hope.
SGP: 555 – 88 factors. |
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Caol Ila 12 yo 2010/2023 (52%, Goldfinch, Bodega collection, 1st fill PX, 395 bottles) 
In fact, the point out of 1st fill PX on a peated whisky is a bit horrifying, however nothing is ever definitive, and the worst is rarely sure (Confucius – that’s proper, S.). In any case, it’s no worse than coffee-mustard or banana-mint. Color: pale gold. Nostril: nicely, this can be a considerably discreet PX, however as usually occurs, the pairing nonetheless brings out some pretty marked rubbery notes. Assume new inside tubes and such. With water: not too unhealthy, however pointless, I might say. Mouth (neat): actually, it’s wonderful. You lose a little bit of Caol Ila’s razor-sharp edge, and the raisins really feel as misplaced as my grandmother at a Taylor Swift gig, however sure, ‘it’s wonderful’. With water: we’re evaluating this to James E.’s Palo Cortado. We shouldn’t have. End: not unhealthy… Feedback: sure, it’s not unhealthy, however since Caol Ila isn’t precisely the rarest malt whisky, the fanatic may need to flip to extra rewarding expressions, as they used to say in whisky guides from the Nineteen Sixties. I’d additionally level you in direction of the latest Aultmore 10 years from Goldfinch, a thousand occasions extra to my style.
SGP:666 – 78 factors. |
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Caol Ila 14 yo 2008/2023 (55.3%, Oxhead, hogshead, cask #322483)
A playful label within the model of a reproduction, with a point out of the Port Askaig pharmacy. We’ve by no means seen a pharmacy in Port Askaig, however maybe we didn’t look laborious sufficient. Color: white wine. Nostril: this can be a considerably extra delicate nostril, bearing similarities to that of the G&M CC 22, significantly sunflower oil and linseed oil. Seashore bonfires, sea water, and almonds (we imply the shellfish, after all) observe. I imply we name canine cockle ‘sea almond’ in France. In brief, perhaps not a CI that absolutely asserts itself straight away. With water: moist chalk emerges, alongside the scent of a brand-new scarf from the marvellous Islay Woollen Mill. , the type that itches your neck just a little however appears to be like very good once you’re again dwelling… Mouth (neat): oh, superb! Extremely-classic, peat, brine, pepper, lemon, ashes… With water: sure, easy, paraffin, lemon zest, almond milk, and loads of salt. End: comparable, a somewhat oily CI. Feedback: a really wonderful intermediate CI with a beautiful texture.
SGP:567 – 87 factors. |
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Alright, one final one; I believe we’ll keep on tomorrow…
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Caol Ila 17 yo 2006/2023 (55.1%, Cadenhead, Genuine Assortment, bourbon hogshead, 204 bottles)
I actually like Cadenhead’s new designs—earlier than, it felt just like the Nineteen Sixties; now, it’s extra just like the Nineteen Forties, ha. Bear in mind, ‘don’t protect the ashes however preserve the hearth alive,’ and so forth., and so forth., and so forth… Color: white wine. Nostril: a somewhat discreet Caol Ila, a gentleman, with tweed and with a contact of soot, then hints of melon and winery peach. You may assume it got here from an ex-cognac cask, although apparently, it’s not. There’s additionally an air of an outdated forge, metallic, and greases… With water: motor oil, sourdough, and liquorice… May it have been an ex-Longrow-ex-bourbon cask, by any probability? Mouth (neat): right here comes Caol Ila’s intrinsic energy, joined by a virtually effervescent profile—Schweppes, ginger, cinchona, sea salt, and an sudden contact of jasmine tea. All of it works very properly, even when my description sounds inconceivable. With water: not very Caol Ila, however what issues is it’s each lovely and scrumptious. End: lengthy, with these floral notes lingering—lavender, jasmine, and even rosemary. Feedback: a most shocking CI, particularly after ten others, providing a reasonably totally different perspective. Both approach, I like it regardless of its uncommon character. Properly, they are saying habits are killers.
SGP:555 – 86 factors. |
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As soon as once more, a really spectacular grouping as we speak, however as we’ve mentioned, CI presents the reliability of a brand-new Patek Philippe (simply to choose an instance at random).
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