As lots of you recognize, I used to be as soon as a cycle tour information in Europe (which was the genesis of this weblog). The corporate the place I labored for all these years, Blue Marble Journey, has formed my life in numerous methods however sadly not exists. A pair months in the past, I used to be again in France, using a type of Blue Marble routes, however not as a information; this time I used to be using solo.
In the present day is the final day of using, the final stretch of street on my trusty steed earlier than heading east, into Provence. However. As I look out the window, the sky is forbidding, the temperature is low (about 8°C or 45°F), the bottom is saturated, and it’s raining. Closely.
Um. No.
I’m not, nonetheless, upset. I had been checking the climate religiously (obsessively?) for days and I knew this was coming. I had additionally, the day earlier than, accomplished what’s definitely uncommon in my very own private world: I had surpassed 300 miles of using for every week (it was truly 301.2 miles with over 20,000 toes of climbing, however who’s counting?).
So, since I knew this dangerous climate was coming, I figured I wanted a time without work, and I had a plan.
Not less than the beginnings of a plan.
Below final evening’s gloomy skies, I sat in my slightly comfy (at the very least comparatively, for this journey) lodge room, refreshing the climate forecast each three minutes on my laptop computer (it by no means improved) and plotted my alternate day.
My vacation spot is Nîmes, a reasonably large metropolis within the Occitaine area of France (it’s proper on the border of Provence, however locals are fast to level out that town is not Provençale [this applies to both the denizens of Nîmes and the Provençals]). It’s identified for its ties to antiquity: the Roman amphitheater is maybe the best instance outdoors of Italy, La Maison Carrée dates from 2,000 B.C., and the Pont du Gard (simply outdoors town) is the very best preserved Roman tri-level aqueduct on this planet (I feel).
Right here is the scheduled bike route for the day:
Clearly, as we speak’s biking route stops in Alès (a very good 60 kilometers or so from Nîmes) the place there’s a common practice to take one’s self and one’s bike into the regional capital. In fact, when planning the journey, I had decided that I might journey all the distance since I’m male and have an lack of ability to acknowledge my very own limitations.
However the forecast all week referred to as for rain. Heavy rain. Even Biblical rain. Not less than that’s how I learn it.
So final evening, I made a plan. There was a regional bus that I may catch in Florac (the place I’m presently positioned) that will take me to the practice station in Alès the place I may then switch to a practice into the Roman metropolis.
Simple peasy.
Besides that is France.
Don’t get me incorrect: the general public transit system in France is outstanding (when not on strike) and getting across the county with no automobile (for essentially the most half) is pretty straightforward.
However.
French individuals dwell in France.
If there are two issues that common readers of this area know, it’s that I really like France and I really like the French. However. The latter may be attempting at instances.
Living proof.
I present up on the bus cease in Florac with loads of time to spare. It’s raining buckets, legitimizing my resolution to “bail-out” and take the bus/practice. The bus is there on time (because it virtually all the time is in France) and there may be one shopper already on the 20-passenger bus (it was extra of a glorified van, however I digress).
The web site of the “bus” (glorified van) firm clearly states that it takes bikes, however, nonetheless, my bike is fastidiously packed in a journey case. I wait in the back of the “bus” (glorified van) to load with mentioned bike case on the again. Right here is the dialogue that follows (roughly):
Van Driver (VD), who’s a fashionably dressed, carrying a cute skirt (by anybody’s commonplace), a number of fancy rings, a classy hat, and might be round 28 years outdated. She says (in French): “What’s that??”
Me (additionally in French–sure, that may be a flex): “A motorbike. In a bag.”
VD: “We don’t take bikes.”
Me: “Sure you do, it says so in your web site.”
VD: “Effectively, it’s a must to name the day earlier than to alert us that you’ve a motorbike.”
Me: “Yesterday was Sunday. Nobody answered the telephone.” (Everybody in France is aware of that the whole lot is closed on Sunday, notably outdoors of Paris.)
VD: “Effectively, if it’s a bike, you will want to take it out of the bag.”
Me: “Why?”
VD: “So it’s going to match.”
Me: “It’s going to extra seemingly match like this, I’m fairly certain.”
VD: “No it received’t.”
Me: “Sure it’s going to.”
[I will save about 1,000 words here by stating those last two lines were repeated about 173 times.]
VD: “Effectively, I should not have sufficient room on the bus [my emphasis], there will likely be a number of passengers as we speak.”
Me: “Effectively, this bike must be on this bus [yeah, I was trolling a bit, but she did not pick up on it], and I’m certain it’s going to match within the again seat.”
VD: “Yeah, however I’d want these seats for passengers.”
The Van Driver then abruptly walks away. I load the bike onto the van/bus after which proceed to board the bus/van. The charge for the hour journey? 2€ (about $2.15). I sit within the entrance seat. There are three individuals on the van/bus once we go away Florac. There are 5 stops alongside the way in which. One of many passengers engages the VD for an prolonged dialog. Questions on youngsters, spouses, uncles, donkeys. Clearly, the VD does this journey typically.
We acquire 4 extra passengers on the journey, however three of the unique vacationers get off earlier than Nîmes (no, this isn’t a logic drawback, I promise). So the van pulls into Nîmes with a complete of 4 passengers. On a “bus” (glorified van) that would carry twenty.
However there isn’t a room for my bike.
Gotcha.
In Nîmes, the VD hops out of the “bus” (glorified van) and sprints round to the again to assist me take away my bike. “Have an amazing day! Hopefully you should not have to journey on this climate?” Me: “Thanks! No, I’m taking the practice into Nîmes.” VD: “Bon Voyage!”
And she or he is off. As if the confrontation loading the bike in Alès by no means occurred.
Oh properly, welcome to Nîmes.
Arriving in Nîmes, the primary order of enterprise was lunch. I continued on my salad tour with a Salade Niçoise, and a carafe of rosé, as one does.
After checking into the lodge (and with the rain subsiding), I headed to the middle of city and the Roman Amphitheater.
As spectacular as the outside was, the galleries on the inside had been gorgeous (I don’t know who these individuals are, however I didn’t need to look ahead to a “clear shot”).
The higher ranges had fewer individuals (stairs had been required).
I then headed to the sector flooring.
The skies remained ominous, however whoa.
I attempted to think about myself Russel Crowe.
I then climbed all the way in which to the highest, by many extra galleries.
Passing by a few bars (buvettes) which had been closed, however had a number of choice when it got here to champagne, together with Ruinart, Bollinger, and Dom Pérignon (subsequent time!).
Yeah, fairly cool.
That’s all for this leg of the journey, again once more subsequent week with extra!
