Barolo — “the wine of kings” — is generally a dense, austere affair that entails prolonged quantities of airtime, a decanter, and doubtless crossed fingers that the wine will open up in time for the principle course to reach. This 2020 from Pio Cesare will not be that wine. I don’t suppose I’ve ever seen a Barolo with such a vivid shade, and the palate of this nebbiolo-based providing tracks with that. As a substitute of brooding tar and macerated cherry notes, this wine is vivid and fruity — extra contemporary raspberry and maraschino, tempered with a light tea leaf high quality, adopted by a pinch of baking spice. There’s a contact of anise on the end together with a gently natural character that showcases rosemary, later black pepper and a slick of contemporary tar. Tannins are evident on the finish of the present, however they’re already tempered sufficient to make issues approachable at the moment. Arguably essentially the most easygoing Barolo I’ve encountered to this point — and never one thing I might have even acknowledged as Barolo had I tasted it blind. All the identical, it’s a enjoyable, versatile wine.
A- / $89 / piocesare.it
2020 Pio Cesare Barolo
$89
