I’ll be frank: That is a kind of whiskeys the place we noticed the bottle and knew we needed to have it, with the Drinkhacker employees swapping images of the factor, questioning what to make of it. It’s formed like a cathedral, with a gargoyle on high of the stopper and one other etched into the glass under the WWS seal. A steel panel on the reverse (truly I don’t even know which facet is meant to be the entrance) tells you every part you have to know in regards to the product, which doesn’t actually also have a title: It’s simply “a 12-year-old Indiana Rye whiskey completed in ex-Awamori Casks.” It’s 95/5 MGP rye, non-chill-filtered, no shade added. 5000 bottles produced on this batch, #6 — although it’s onerous to think about there are 30,000 bottles of this on the market.
The twist right here, after all, is using awamori. Awamori is an historic spirit just like shochu however it could possibly solely be comprised of 100% rice which is kojified (and solely with black koji). (Shochu is usually solely partly kojified.) We’ve reviewed barely any awamori to this point, as a result of it’s just about unknown within the U.S. Ending whiskey in awamori casks? One thing we’ve by no means seen in any respect earlier than.
Properly, there’s no time like the current, so let’s dive in.
From the beginning, that is bizarre, wild stuff. Straight away an awesome essence of mushroom hits your nostril if you pour a glass, with an excessive umami character that jogged my memory of Maggi seasoning atop inexperienced greens — broccoli and inexperienced beans. Beneath that the closely grassy character of the underlying rye is palpable, although it arrives with overtones of petrol and furnishings polish.
The palate reveals not even a touch of sweetness at first, simply extra soy and mushroom notes and a strong purple pepper warmth — a selected shock at 46% abv. Once more the grassiness of the rye comes into secondary focus, although stronger right here, tempering an aggressive fungi observe with notes of dried seaweed and sesame oil. Time in glass and time to stew over the expertise does evoke a observe of purple fruit and apple cider (or apple cider vinegar), however these are a very long time coming. Maybe a chunk of citrus rind on the again finish, too.
The end stays a wild trip — cilantro, bell pepper, and inexperienced onion are all on level with the theme to this point. The pepper notes listed below are limitless and lingering, with additional notes of miso paste and soy sauce each within the combine. There’s a type of raspberry-raisin sweetness that ultimately makes its option to your tongue, however it is a very long time coming and a taste that, in the end, is drowned out by every part else.
I’ll say that I had new appreciation for this whiskey on the second day I attempted it, after I used to be higher ready for the expertise and knew what to anticipate. Nonetheless, it remained a doozy.
Will I preserve this bottle available? Sure. Will I drink it ever once more? In all probability. Will I serve it to visitors? Sure, if they’re as much as the problem. Will I principally admire the gargoyles? Undoubtedly sure.
96 proof.
B+ / $169 / worldwhiskey.com