Japanese whisky’s fame has come a great distance over the arc of 25 years. As soon as an unglamorous native tipple, at the moment it’s a globally revered spirit—with provide straining to satisfy demand. Alongside this path to glory, Japanese whisky has impressed a number of the world’s nice cocktail bars, created liquid magic with its use of mizunara oak, and achieved mastery within the artwork of mixing. On the worldwide public sale market, Japan has produced a number of the most coveted collectibles ever launched. In brief, the attract is plain.
Regardless of centuries-old traditions in sake and shochu, Japan’s historical past of whisky distilling just isn’t a prolonged one. The nation’s two most well-known malt whisky distilleries are Yamazaki (owned by Suntory), which opened in 1923, and Yoichi (owned by Nikka), which started distilling in 1936. The seminal determine for whisky in Japan was Masataka Taketsuru, a scion of a sake brewing household who journeyed to Scotland from 1918-20 to review whisky making and work at Scottish distilleries. Three years after his return, he left a job at liquor maker Settsu Shuzo to hitch Yamazaki, Japan’s first-ever malt whisky distillery. At this time, Yamazaki is the cornerstone of Suntory Holdings Ltd., based by one other seminal determine in Japanese whisky, grasp blender Shinjiro Tori. Taketsuru grew to become Yamazaki’s head distiller, staying for a decade earlier than placing out on his personal to discovered what would turn out to be Nikka Whisky and construct Yoichi Distillery.
These two foundational distilleries, Yamazaki and Yoichi, are a examine in distinction. Yamazaki is positioned within the midsection of the nation, set on the backside of a lush, tree-filled hillside outdoors Kyoto, the traditional metropolis of temples and shrines. The setting was chosen exactly as a result of it was so completely different from something in Scotland. It’s set by the convergence of three rivers—Katsura, Uji, and Kizu— that present comfortable water and create a misty microclimate whose temperature swings all year long are thought-about best for getting old its whisky. Yoichi, alternatively, has a web site chosen exactly due to its similarity to Scotland, set within the chilly local weather of Japan’s northernmost island of Hokkaido, surrounded by mountains and near the ocean. (Its daring, peaty whiskies present a touch of brininess.)
Each Suntory and Nikka at the moment produce other essential distilleries as nicely. Suntory owns Hakushu, nestled in a forest close to the Southern Japanese Alps two hours west of Tokyo, in addition to Chita, a grain distillery by the ocean on the Chita Peninsula outdoors Osaka. Nikka’s most famed distillery except for Yoichi is Miyagikyo, set in a foggy glen on the juncture of two rivers—Nikkawa and Hirose—on Japan’s giant fundamental island, Honshu. The positioning was chosen as a result of it has a local weather completely completely different from that of Yoichi.
Complexity and Intricacy
All of those distilleries—and there are lots of extra—spotlight the exceptional complexity and intricacy of Japanese whisky, in addition to its intertwinement with Japan’s tradition. In contrast to the western world, which merely marks 4 seasons a 12 months, Japan observes 24 seasons, or photo voltaic phrases—a standard calendar that continues to be a part of Japanese tradition at the moment. Inside these 24 phrases, there are 72 micro seasons, all of them thought-about essential within the maturation and collection of mix parts. Suntory’s Hibiki label, for instance, is made as a mix encompassing Japan’s 24 seasons, combining malt and grain whiskies from its three Japanese distilleries: Yamazaki, Chita, and Hakushu. And in contrast to Scotland, the place firms commerce casks to accumulate completely different whiskies for his or her blends, main distilleries in Japan are designed to create all forms of whiskies in-house. Each Suntory and Nikka work with over 100 completely different kinds, differentiated by varied components comparable to peating ranges, yeast varieties, fermentation occasions, nonetheless shapes, worm tubs, cask varieties, and extra. Nikka grasp blender Hiromi Ozaki creates the Nikka From The Barrel expression with over 100 completely different constituent whiskies.
Even in Japan’s much-acclaimed use of mizunara oak there may be mystique and intricacy. Whereas Yamazaki does supply a Mizunara-labeled sequence, most distillers incorporate mizunara-aged whiskies into quite a lot of their last expressions, as a substitute of trumpeting it as a single end the way in which western distillers do. Suntory chief blender Shinji Fukuyo manages what’s virtually definitely the biggest stock of mizunara cask whiskies on the planet.
However Japanese whisky isn’t just about Suntory and Nikka, as different distinguished distillers have their very own artisanal intricacies. Fuji Gotemba Distillery, led by grasp blender Jota Tanaka and set within the foothills of Mount Fuji, is understood for its expressive grain whiskies, however the distillery produces 4 kinds in complete: grain whiskies within the scotch, Canadian, and American bourbon kinds, and a Scottish- fashion malt. Chichibu, based in 2004 by Ichiro Akuto and distilling since 2008, makes a few of Japan’s most sought-after whiskies. Utilizing flooring malting and dunnage warehousing whereas additionally coopering its personal barrels, Chichibu’s single cask malt whiskies are famend, and its Malt & Grain expression rated 90 factors by our tasting panel. The operation expanded in 2019 with a second distillery, Chichibu 2, close by. Mars Komagatake, Japan’s highest-altitude distillery at 2,625 ft within the Japanese Alps, has roots relationship again to its 1949 collaboration with considered one of Japanese whisky’s earliest pioneers, Kiichiro Iwai, whose title continues to be on the labels. Eigashima Distillery, previously often called White Oak, has roots in sake but additionally makes a well-regarded Japanese single malt.
Adventurous drinkers are additionally discovering whiskies from distilleries like Mars Tsunuki, sister distillery to Mars Komagatake. It started working in 2016 on Japan’s southernmost fundamental island of Kyushu, and is understood for its single malt and single cask whiskies. Its neighbor on Kyushu is Kanosuke Distillery, a stunningly fashionable architectural gem that appears out upon the South China Sea. Kanosuke started working in 2017, producing single malt, and collaborating on a pot nonetheless grain whisky made at close by Hioki Distillery. Additionally producing pleasure is Shizuoka, excessive up within the mountains about 100 miles south of Tokyo. Shizuoka has the mill and wash nonetheless from legendary ghost distillery Karuizawa, and makes expressions with Japanese and imported barley. Akkeshi Distillery, on the northern island of Hokkaido, began manufacturing in 2016 and is acknowledged for its Islay-inspired single malts and blends that embrace Hokkaido’s chilly local weather, combining conventional Scottish strategies with Japanese panache, like its venerable extra well-known Hokkaido neighbor, Yoichi. With these and different new distilleries, Japanese whisky is quickly gaining new range.
››› Meet the Blenders From Japan’s Most Outstanding Distillers Right here
Shortage of Provide
The elephant within the room for Japan stays the shortage of provide, an issue that has plagued Japanese whisky for greater than a decade. It’s all attributable to some miscalculating, not dissimilar to the manufacturing drawdowns in Scotland, Eire, and the U.S. throughout their lean years of the Nineteen Eighties. Very like the vodka craze within the U.S., Japan’s white spirit shochu took over the market beginning within the Nineteen Eighties, all however obliterating whisky in Japan. In 1980, gross sales of Suntory’s flagship home model Suntory Outdated, reached a zenith of 12 million circumstances (14.4 million bottles), after which whisky started a 25 12 months decline. By the mid-Nineties, Japanese whisky manufacturing had already plunged to twenty% of its former ranges—in different phrases, an 80% drop. “When issues had been actually dangerous within the Nineties, we weren’t producing in any respect,” recollects Nikka’s chief blender Hiromi Ozaki.
Then got here the worldwide whisky renaissance within the mid-to-early aughts, and Japan, like the remainder of the whisky world, has been scrambling to spice up provide ever since. But it surely’s a gradual course of: A window of 10 to fifteen years is required to make their greatest whiskies, even when some wonderful expressions are a bit youthful. Additionally take into account that there are nonetheless many home Japanese whisky manufacturers promoting nicely over one million circumstances yearly, loved by workplace employees within the izakayas (pubs) of Tokyo and different cities. The recognition of these mainstream manufacturers has returned, and although some had been eradicated amid the scarcity, their provide wants are essential to those firms’ backside traces. This want for youthful whiskies has additionally made it troublesome to put down enough shares for getting old.
Suntory has mentioned that it’ll take at the very least one other 12 months or two to convey issues again into steadiness, however provide is on the rise, helped by the truth that the corporate has raised costs sharply to dampen demand. Nikka additionally might be a couple of years away from catching up. “Since whisky began to develop, we started to extend capability at our present services to provide as a lot as we may,” says Ozaki. Manufacturing capability at Yoichi is now two and a half occasions larger than it was in 2019, with the distillery operating two shifts a day as a substitute of 1. And lately the corporate pledged an extra $38.5 million towards boosting manufacturing capability. In a hopeful signal, Nikka rolled out Yoichi 10 12 months outdated, its first age-stated whisky since 2015, although its availability was very restricted. Nonetheless, there does appear to be gentle on the finish of the tunnel, and as soon as the provision downside is resolved, there shall be loads of Japanese whisky for everybody to get pleasure from.
Japan’s Main Whisky Distilleries
1. Akkeshi
OWNER: Kenten Jitsugyo Co. Ltd.
An Islay-inspired distillery making calmly smoked whisky utilizing regionally grown uncooked supplies.
STYLE: Single malt and blends with imported whisky
VISITOR FACILITIES: Close by restaurant Akkeshi Gourmand Park is allowed to provide excursions, however solely of the rackhouse and basic campus, not the distillery.
2. Chichibu 1 & 2
OWNER: Enterprise Whisky Ltd.
STYLE: Single malt
Led by Ichiro Akuto, progenitor of a brand new wave of Japanese distilleries. Chichibu gives principally particular releases, each peated and non-peated.
VISITOR FACILITIES: Sure, by reservation
3. Chita
OWNER: Suntory
STYLE: Single grain
Situated on the shores of the Chita Peninsula close to Nagoya, Chita is devoted to creating grain whisky.
VISITOR FACILITIES: No
4. Eigashima
OWNER: Eigashima Shuzo Co. Ltd.
STYLE: Single malt
Previously often called White Oak, it makes unpeated and restricted peated releases utilizing imported malt.
VISITOR FACILITIES: Sure
5. Fuji Gotemba
OWNER: Kirin Brewing Co. Ltd.
STYLES: Single malt, single grain, and blends
This distillery makes malt and grain whiskies with a variety of flavors however is most famous for its grain whiskies.
VISITOR FACILITIES: Sure
6. Hakushu
OWNER: Suntory
STYLES: Single malt and single grain
Situated within the Japanese Alps, makes calmly peated and unpeated whiskies.
VISITOR FACILITIES: Sure, by reservation solely
7. Kanosuke
OWNER: Komasa Jyozo Co. Ltd.
STYLE: Single malt
A contemporary architectural gem set on the shores of the South China Sea.
VISITOR FACILITIES: Sure
8. Mars Komagatake
OWNER: Hombo Shuzo Co. Ltd.
STYLES: Single malt
Japan’s highest-altitude distillery, positioned within the Japanese Alps, can be among the many oldest within the nation, with roots going again to Kiichiro Iwai, an early Japanese whisky pioneer and mentor to Nikka founder Masataka Taketsuru.
VISITOR FACILITIES: Sure
9. Mars Tsunuki
OWNER: Hombo Shuzo Co. Ltd.
STYLE: Single malt
Sister distillery to Mars Komagatake, its first whisky was launched in 2020. It produces each unpeated and closely peated expressions.
VISITOR FACILITIES: Sure, by reservation
10. Miyagikyo
OWNER: Nikka Whisky
STYLES: Single malt and single grain
This distillery makes malt and grain whisky with flavors starting from elegant to peaty. Its grain expressions are among the many most extremely regarded on the planet.
VISITOR FACILITIES: Sure
11. Shizuoka
OWNER: Gaiaflow Co. Ltd.
STYLES: Single malt
Situated excessive within the mountains and within the shadow of Mount Fuji, its whiskies embody expressions made out of 100% Japanese barley.
VISITOR FACILITIES: Sure, by reservation
12. Yamazaki
OWNER: Suntory
STYLE: Single malt
Japan’s first whisky distillery, opened in 1923, produces sometimes unpeated whiskies however does supply some peated expressions. It makes a few of Japan’s most well-known and extremely collectible labels,
VISITOR FACILITIES: Sure
13. Yoichi
OWNER: Nikka Whisky
STYLE: Single malt
Japan’s second foundational whisky distillery after Yamazaki, its distant location and sometimes peated whiskies, had been impressed by founder Masataka Taketsuru’s years in Scotland.
VISITOR FACILITIES: Sure
Koji and Awamori Whisky Makers
These specialist producers are predominantly positioned in southern Japan from Kyushu Island to Okinawa. Learn all about koji and awamori right here TKTKTKTKTK LINK TO KOJI LIST
A. Fukano
B. Hakata
C. Ohishi
D. Ikinokura
E. Kumesen
F. Masahiro
G. Shinozaki
Japan and Overseas Whisky Sourcing
Japan has an extended custom of importing bulk whiskies for mixing. It’s completely authorized to herald whisky, age it, mix it, and promote it labeled as a “Product of Japan,” although it wasn’t distilled there. This loophole, coupled with the truth that a few of these manufacturers do their greatest to not speak concerning the challenge, has created some confusion within the market. To convey better readability, in 2021 the commerce group Japanese Spirits & Liqueurs Makers Affiliation established new labeling requirements for whisky. However these are voluntary pointers, and don’t go far sufficient. For one factor, they ratify that phrase “Product of Japan,” for merchandise with imported whisky. In the event you’re looking for out a purely Japanese whisky, you should examine the label fastidiously—and search for the phrases “Japanese Whisky.” Which means the product has complied with the stricter Japanese labeling requirements on provenance, as proven within the field right here. Keep in mind, nonetheless, that some foreign-component whiskies are wonderful: Ichiro’s Malt & Grain, for instance, scored 90 factors with our panel, and Nikka From the Barrel, at 94 factors, was our 2018 Whisky of the 12 months. Each producers are upfront about their provenance.
LABELING STANDARDS FOR JAPANESE WHISKY
The rules set by the Japan Spirits and Liqueurs Makers Affiliation state that something labeled “Japanese whisky” or “Japanese whiskey” should meet these requirements, which carefully resemble these for scotch whisky:
- Uncooked components are restricted to malted grains and different cereal grains, and water from Japan. Malted grains should all the time be part of the grain invoice.
- Saccharification (changing starches to sugars, as in mashing), fermentation, and distillation, to a most of 95% alcohol by quantity (ABV), should happen in Japan.
- The spirit have to be matured for at the very least three years in Japan in picket casks with a most measurement of 700 liters.
- It have to be bottled in Japan at 40% ABV or above.
- Caramel coloring is permitted.
