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| Hello, that is one in all our (nearly) day by day tastings. Santé! |
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October 13, 2024
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Extra rums de la muerte and Nick Lowe
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The large festivals of the season, just like the Whisky Present in London or Whisky Reside Paris, are at all times an excellent alternative to meet up with many buddies and obtain suggestions on WF (not simply concerning the yellow background, which appears to be an increasing number of common as a result of, as they are saying, ‘colors are life’, ha). There’s a whole lot of discuss ‘rating inflation’, a subject that at all times issues me as a result of I attempt to preserve a constant scoring strategy over time. It is true that there are extra scores of 90+, however that is completely as a result of ever-increasing proportion of wonderful “malternatives” that cross the brink of Château WF, and never the whiskies themselves. You see, although we solely style these malternatives in the future every week, I seen that in August alone, 55% of the spirits that reached that rating had been whiskies, whereas 45% had been malternatives. You may say that we additionally keep away from the garbage on this latter class, and God is aware of there’s loads of that. Right here, let me offer you somewhat instance for example my level…
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Bacardi ‘Carta Blanca’ (37.5%, OB, white rum, Puerto Rico, +/-2024) 
Nicely, would you consider it, that is the primary time we’re tasting this little quantity on objective. I think about it is largely destined for cocktails. Color: white. Nostril: sugar syrup, a touch of cologne, and a contact of hay. It’s as gentle as a chick’s feather. Mouth: completely inoffensive, with a style that is largely impartial alcohol and the faintest trace of lemon. A smidgen of brown sugar, when you actually search for it. End: just about non-existent. Feedback: the perfect factor about it’s that since there’s nearly nothing there, there can’t actually be any flaws both. Let’s not neglect that this tipple and its cousins helped its house owners construct a spirits empire that now contains gems like Aberfeldy, Craigellachie, Aultmore, Macduff, Brackla, Teeling, and naturally Dewar’s. Oh, and the marvellous Worthy Park. Couldn’t they sneak 10% of Worthy Park into Bacardi? Or maybe do a Bacardi ‘Jamaican Tribute’? I’d add that these humble spirits additionally assist us hold our scoring scale properly tuned, wandering down its decrease reaches once in a while. We ‘may’ have extra Bacardi immediately… Or not.
SGP:210 – 30 factors. |
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Sodade ‘Canne Rouge’ (42.7%, OB, Cabo Verde, white grogue, +/-2023) 
Crafted from pure natural ‘pink cane’ juice and distilled in pot stills following an prolonged 12-day fermentation utilizing indigenous yeasts. In different phrases, it’s a correct box-ticker. We have totally loved earlier Sodades, and this one carries on the custom. Color: white. Nostril: superbly honeyed, nearly like mead, with a fermentary edge. There are notes of leaven, Parma ham, a contact of oranges, and potting soil, rounded off with a touch of small olives. Mouth: barely candy however with a pleasant ‘soiled’ character, fairly wild and yeasty, staying true to the cane itself. Suppose croissant dough blended with previous figs, adopted by a contact of tapenade and a touch of moist plaster. End: medium in size, leaning in direction of the earthy aspect. There’s a whisper of rotting oranges and a contact of salt within the aftertaste, balanced by some lingering sweetness. Feedback: I need to admit, I most popular their ‘Cana Rocca Ouro Blanco’ and ‘Botanic Joao’ (each scoring WF 88), however that is nonetheless an excellent drop, albeit extra of a curiosity that strays a bit from conventional rum. A tad on the candy aspect.
SGP:541 – 81 factors. |
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9 Leaves 2023/2024 ‘Final Drops’ (62%, OB, Japan, LMDW, black sugar, 950 bottles, 2024) 
The story of 9 Leaves started in 2013 and, sadly, got here to an in depth in 2023. It seems that La Maison has managed to get their palms on a good portion of the remaining shares, together with these somewhat evocative ‘final drops’. I’ve usually discovered 9 Leaves to be a bit peculiar, however then once more, I’m removed from being a rum skilled. Very enticing label, by the best way. Color: white. Nostril: like a glass of Riesling spiked with a little bit of espresso and holly eau-de-vie. Actually. With water: an added layer of cherry and raspberry juice, light honey, and dried flowers. Mouth (neat): it does somewhat slice you in two at this energy. ‘Correctly brutal,’ with a style profile that leans in direction of coffee-schnapps, or maybe extra precisely, schnapps-coffee. With water: rather more civilised, revealing smooth lemon with honey and a touch of delicate horseradish, whereas the background stays pleasantly fermentary. End: somewhat lengthy, with notes of sugarcane, a type of grapefruit and flower liqueur, and a touch of candy bread within the aftertaste. Feedback: fairly a cerebral profile, missing the explosive immediacy of the perfect rums, but much better than I remembered. I do know some buddies will adore it.
SGP:451 – 78 factors. |
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Come on, three whites, that is sufficient.
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TDL/FS 2006/2024 (58.8%, Zero 9 Spirits, Cyberpunk Rh12, mix Trinidad+Barbados, 200 bottles) 
It is somewhat daring to mix TDL and Foursquare 50/50, isn’t it? I imply, how might one anticipate to outshine the person elements in a case like this? Or maybe it is all only for a little bit of enjoyable? If that is so, then we applaud the initiative. Color: gold. Nostril: this seems like a wedding of purpose, but we did not anticipate any discord right here. Mango and honey, peony and pink pepper, with ripe pineapple and strawberry, all seamlessly certain collectively by beeswax. With water: a contact of barely salted brioche, kougelhopf, and sugarcane emerges. Mouth (neat): splendidly full of life, with each rums distinctly recognizable, but taking turns to raise one another up. A seaside citrus word however be careful for the energy! With water: it does appear as if the Foursquare has taken the lead, with TDL graciously stepping apart. We’re now nearer to spices, sugarcane, and molasses somewhat than the everyday baskets of tropical fruits usually present in TDL. End: lengthy, fairly vibrant, citrusy, and honeyed. A touch of basil and recent coriander, with a contact of liquorice wooden lingering within the aftertaste. Feedback: nicely, they’ve definitely landed on their toes with this one.
SGP:651 – 88 factors. |
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Cuban Rum 45 yo 1978/2024 (49.7%, Chapter 7, Spirit Library, Quantity 1, Cuba, 339 bottles) 
We’re not completely positive what that is, however previous experiences with these previous secret Cubans have at all times been fairly profitable in my ebook. Color: amber. Nostril: completely charming roasted hazelnuts, pecan pie, candied sugar, caramel, espresso toffee, and maple syrup of the ‘particular’ grade. A tiny trace of miso sneaks in, and naturally, a contact of Cuban tobacco. I completely love this nostril, even when it isn’t overwhelmingly complicated (and does that basically matter, S.?). Mouth: that is the epitome of the model, with a saline edge, even barely medicinal, that includes bitter orange, varied honeys (together with some native melipona honey!), and people roasted pecans and maple syrup as soon as once more. I discover it improbably scrumptious, particularly with that delicate salinity that performs together with your lips so unexpectedly. End: medium in size however magnificent, with a contact of cedarwood and white pepper, adopted by that impossible to resist combo of maple syrup and caramel. A extra peppery aftertaste returns on the finish. Feedback: what’s outstanding right here is that you just by no means fairly sense the relative lack of texture that may be present in Cuban rums. I am unable to assist however consider Santiago de Cuba. Santiago, te quiero mucho. BTW Santiago was the place the unique Bacardi was situated, however the model had already constructed different distilleries in Puerto Rico and Mexico as early because the Nineteen Thirties.
SGP:641 – 92 factors. |
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Hoy Como Ayer 1956/2024 (53.7%, La Maison & Velier, Cuba, cask #2315302, 285 bottles)
Again in 1956, Cuba was nonetheless below Batista’s rule, who wouldn’t be overthrown till 1959. This might imply, for example, that it’s real Cuban Bacardi because the distilleries weren’t nationalized till october of 1960, although that’s pure hypothesis. Apparently, December 1956 was additionally when Fidel and Che Guevara landed on the island. It is astonishing to come back throughout a rum like this—the place has it been hiding all these years? Color: glowing espresso. Nostril: there’s a robust stylistic resemblance to the 1978, particularly with all these roasted nutty notes, however right here we additionally discover tremendous woods and, fairly frankly, impeccably preserved previous Cuban cigars, together with darkish chocolate, juniper, hints of turpentine, and a curious contact of untamed strawberry and raspberry liqueurs (only a drop or two). Lastly, a touch of top-quality soy sauce form of rounds issues off. Very spectacular, that is removed from only a dusty previous rum stored ‘for present’. With water: it tightens up barely, displaying notes of previous furnishings, burnt wooden, and really darkish tea, but it stays splendid. Mouth (neat): I used to be anxious, however I used to be unsuitable. The woods do take centre stage (spruce, thuja, oak, cherry), however prunes, blackberries, and crème de menthe stability issues out somewhat masterfully. A contact of chocolate with a touch of mint (and perhaps tobacco?) completes the image. With water: a tiny trace of gunpowder (naturally) and black pepper, adopted by roasted cacao beans and an amusingly aged oloroso-like word. End: medium in size, dry, with menthol, espresso, darkish chocolate, and tea. A contact of bitter orange and skinny mints lingers. Feedback: más especial!
SGP:562 – 91 factors
(real factors, organoleptically talking!). |
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We’ll get better from this Cuban whirlwind with what is probably going somewhat gem from Guyana from three or 4 years in the past, after which we’ll name it a day.
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Enmore 26 yo 1994/2020 ‘RSV’ (52.5%, Valinch & Mallet, Guyana, cask #71, 215 bottles)
This one’s already gathered a little bit of a status, hasn’t it? REV refers back to the Versailles nonetheless, a venerable single wood pot nonetheless that was relocated to Enmore in 1977. I used to be below the impression it had ended up at Uitvlugt in 1994, however let’s not get slowed down in historic nit-picking. Color: reddish amber. Nostril: outstanding notes of violet-flavoured liquorice, recent mastic, and caramel. There’s a touch of tremendous Armagnac alongside roasted salsify. Merely magical. With water: now we’ve bought prunes steeped in Armagnac, a contact of tar, engine oil, and the scent of brand-new leatherette. Mouth (neat): a elegant vinosity, nearly harking back to a tremendous white Burgundy. Then it’s an explosion of liquorice in all its varieties, with darkish chocolate stuffed with blackberry and damson plum jam. Flawless. With water: it was already good, however someway even higher now. Consider a tisane-cocktail brewed from black tea, Iberian ham, liquorice, cinnamon, prunes, and tobacco (however don’t strive that with actual tobacco—it’s poisonous!). End: very lengthy, with chocolate, liquorice, prunes, mint, and now a touch of olive and a few recent, ultra-ripe mango. Feedback: a concentrated burst of aromas at an distinctive degree. Liquorice lovers, like me, shall be in heaven (although I believe this one’s already scarce).
SGP:562 – 92 factors. |
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Passing from 30 to 92, does that give you the results you want as a correct use of the 100-scale? Hasta luego.
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Hey, wait! I simply remembered that we now have some actually previous Bacardi from the Cuban period in inventory, seemingly bottled for the US even earlier than Prohibition (17 January 1920 – 5 December 1933). Now’s the proper time to style it, with out making an attempt to check it to the somewhat modest up to date Carta Blanca.
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Bacardi ‘Superior Carta Blanca’ (46%, OB, Cuba, +/-1915)
Fascinating to see the point out ‘Santiago de Cuba – Havana – New York,’ with New York serving as the situation for a Bacardi bottling unit established in 1915 however shut down because of Prohibition in 1920. Additionally intriguing is the point out of the alcohol content material in % ABV and the excessive energy of 46% (92° US proof). Nicely, other than that, one actually would not know fairly what to anticipate right here, to be trustworthy… Color: white wine. I reckon there was some temporary ageing in wooden, maybe one thing akin to ‘reposado.’ Nostril: attention-grabbing similarities to the fashionable Carta Blanca, particularly within the notes of cane syrup and the lightness total, however there’s additionally an oiliness to this one (peanut), together with hints of lemon and a contact of mint, some shredded coconut, white nougat, after which little apples, jujubes, and serviceberries… It’s arduous to find out whether or not this added complexity comes from the unique distillate or from greater than a century spent within the bottle, on condition that the liquid stays as brilliant as a brand new penny. After about ten minutes, extra citrus notes begin to come via (clementines, oranges…). Mouth: there is a contact of OBE (slight soapiness, a touch of mud, glass/gentle style), however the remaining is strong, lemony, barely rough-edged, and even a bit full-bodied, nearly displaying a personality harking back to Lowland Scotch, bringing Bladnoch to thoughts. All of it goes down like a attraction, regardless of the sunshine OBE. End: somewhat lengthy, nonetheless lemony, however with that ever-so-slight soapy contact. Feedback: this will need to have made very good mojitos and daiquiris again in 1915. One may even think about Hemingway tasting these bottles throughout his first go to to Cuba in 1928. Ah, Hemingway once more, between Paris and Cuba, it’s arduous to flee him.
SGP:551 – 82 factors.
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(Thanks Christian and Whisky.Public sale!)
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PS: There’s a main threat if you’re tasting a whole lot of very tremendous spirits like these: the temptation to complete your glass somewhat than being content material with simply a few drops to understand the end. And truthfully, who’s going to throw away Cuban rum from 1956, proper? It is essential, subsequently, to have methods in place, like creating ‘dwelling bottles’ on your summer time cocktails (and to share with the neighbours), or sometimes re-distilling your already-tasted shares to take away all undesirable parts like fruit flies, wasps, mud, pollens, and particularly any water you might need added. In fact, what you do with every little thing you’ve re-distilled over time stays a… significant issue as not many individuals shall be excited by your own home gin or vodka. Above all, you must watch out to keep away from setting the home on hearth; if that had been to occur at Château WF, as I usually say, all that will be left is a 50-metre crater with a whole lot of shattered glass at its centre. Nicely, truly, we’re fortunate to have a form of ‘bunker’ for that. Anyway, let’s transfer on…
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 Examine the index of all rum we have tasted up to now
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