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Residence Hundreds of tastings, all of the music, all of the rambligs and all of the enjoyable (hopefully!)
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Hello, that is certainly one of our (nearly) each day tastings. Santé! |
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October 16, 2024
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You do not see them a lot at festivals anymore, however unbiased bottlers are protecting the flame alive for whisky fans. Within the meantime, we’ll simply have just a little aperitif that we nonetheless had available, a small NAS with a comparatively average alcohol content material… Oh, and pleased anniversary, Macallan!
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Macallan ‘Version No.5’ (48.5%, OB, 260,000 bottles, 2019)
A collection that handed considerably below the radar over at WF, regardless of the staggering variety of bottles. It’s true that I discovered No.4 moderately lacklustre (WF 79), whereas Angus appeared to get pleasure from No.6 moderately a bit extra (WF 85). However nothing to jot down residence about, actually—simply a part of the story with many NAS whiskies of the time, and NAS tends to imply “odd story.” Right here, it’s all a couple of new Pantone color, which strikes me as fairly, nicely, ecclesiastical (the color, not the story). Now, let’s see if the spirit itself is divine… Color: gold. Nostril: caramel and barely burnt nuts and almonds, with a contact of char and rubber coming by way of, adopted by new leather-based and hardwood shavings (walnut, cherry, that type of factor). Additionally, some inexperienced walnuts, shoe polish, allspice, and a little bit of orange peel. Not dangerous in any respect. Mouth: very a lot in step with the nostril, with a moderately bitter and peppery sherried aspect, plus some acidic, bitter espresso (which we like), then blended spices and uncooked cinnamon. The inexperienced walnuts stay upfront, and we do fairly like that bitterness. End: lengthy, turning into nuttier however nonetheless spicy. Ginger and turmeric, with bitter oranges and a contact of Cynar within the aftertaste. Feedback: actually not dangerous in any respect, and it loves a splash of water, regardless that that bitterness would persist. Very trendy, with that spicy edge.
SGP: 361 – 84 factors. |
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Macallan 19 yo 2005/2024 ‘Speymalt’ (56.5%, Gordon & MacPhail for LMDW Foundations, 1st fill sherry hogshead, cask #22606305, 343 bottles)
We’ve had some really pretty Speymalts earlier than! Color: gold. Nostril: unsurprisingly extra highly effective, with an earthier profile. There’s loads of tobacco, soot, paraffin, wax, and a contact of liquorice and camphor, plus a touch of coconut. However in any other case, not too dissimilar simply but. With water: now it’s very completely different, with inexperienced tea, menthol cigarettes, and thuja wooden creeping in. Mouth (neat): moderately wealthy, but nonetheless fairly contemporary, doubtless resulting from these notes of pine sap, lime, alfalfa, fern, and eucalyptus lozenges… Actually an uncommon Macallan. With water: there we go, we’ve cracked it. Lemon, mint, eucalyptus, fir honey, and tobacco… It’s pretty, simply very uncommon. End: lengthy, with a return of liquorice wooden and fir wooden. There’s an Amontillado and minty high quality lingering within the aftertaste. Feedback: Amontillado and mint, that’s it. This have to be spectacular in a highball, although it may be a little bit of a sacrilege, wouldn’t it?
SGP: 461 – 89 factors. |
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Macallan 27 yo 1997/2024 ‘Speymalt’ (59.7%, Gordon & MacPhail for LMDW Foundations, refill sherry hogshead, cask #4356, 140 bottles)
G&M have at all times had the knack for sustaining these impressively excessive ABVs, and I doubt it is resulting from cling movie, central heating within the warehouses, or some strict humidity management (in Scotland, no much less!). Have to be one thing else… Any concepts? Color: full gold. Nostril: neglect it, that is good—easy and exact, with walnuts, mint, and radishes. No room for flowery descriptions at present (flowery descriptions, S.?). With water: oh, now we’ve obtained rhubarb tarte and much more radishes. Mouth (neat): a beast that takes management of your palate, tongue, lips, gums, and doubtless different issues too (no, not that). Huge pepper, walnuts, turmeric, Seville oranges… Water feels ab-so-lute-ly important. With water: it spreads throughout your palate with about twenty occasions extra flavour—fruits, peels, tars, peppers, zesty honeys, walnuts, citrus… Really, it’s a tribute to the thrill of including water throughout a tasting. You’re proper, particularly at practically 60% ABV. End: very lengthy, peppery, and honeyed. Feedback: very respectable with out water, magical with it.
SGP: 561 – 91 factors (with water, that’s). |
UPDATE Relating to very excessive ABV ranges after a few years of maturation, and regardless of the potential of a highly regarded and dry location in a warehouse (even in Scotland!), our pal Wouter suggests that giant unbiased bottlers who order new fillings immediately from distilleries can, in some circumstances, acquire new-make spirit that’s both undiluted or diminished to a lot greater strengths than the normal 63.5% ABV. For instance, 70% ABV. On this case, even when alcohol loss is critical through the years, the bottling power can stay notably excessive if no or very delicate dilution is utilized earlier than bottling. Is smart, doesn’t it? Thanks, Wouter!
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Advertising Malt 15 yo 2008/2024 (57.1%, Whisky-Sponge, Decadent Drinks, #88)
We’re not totally positive this Advertising Malt is Macallan, regardless of the clear visible nods to these previous G&M bottlings. Actually, we’re torn between Macallan, Ardbeg, and Dalmore… However in fact, ‘advertising and marketing’ couldn’t presumably be a unclean phrase, might it? It’s Macallan. Color: deep gold. Nostril: chocolate, tobacco, bitter orange, walnut liqueur, then morels and moss. Even a touch of black truffle, maybe, however with none sulphury edge. With water: the chocolate and low actually take centre stage, each in full-on roast mode. Mouth (neat): fairly a little bit of varnish, previous walnuts, pine needles, and Jaeger*****r… It’s obtained lots to say, as they are saying. With water: leather-based, tobacco, and previous ham emerge. Pretty ham fats, with that refined nutty high quality. Perhaps not one of the best dram for vegans, to be truthful. End: lengthy, extra earthy, but in addition a contact lighter on the identical time. Feedback: an old-school malt that reminds us of the previous 10 yo 100 proof from round 1990/1995. Some dram, that one—most likely not precisely ‘sharp’ 10 years previous although.
SGP: 561 – 90 factors. |
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Macallan ‘Over 30 yo’ 1991/2024 (55.2%, LMDW, Artist #14, 2nd fill bourbon barrel, cask #14622, 89 bottles)
Again within the day, individuals would pounce on ex-bourbon Macallans like fleas on an previous tomcat, as they had been uncommon, with the distillery largely targeted on sherry casks—which, in fact, constructed its popularity. So, this one’s a bit completely different… Color: gold. Nostril: oh sure, peanuts, sunflower seeds, bark, contemporary mastic, linseed oil, and quince paste… love that! With water: a stroll by way of the woods—moss, mushrooms, sap, previous stumps, historic lichen, then ink and damp, previous paper. Mouth (neat): a lot cleaner, very natural and lemony, fairly spectacular, and really uncommon. Dill, grapefruit, sage, basil… With water: excellent, bringing again mint, chervil, verbena, anise, absinthe, and chalk… It nearly looks like absinthe from the Eighties. End: lengthy, elegant, poetic, mental. Feedback: it is a true journey; Netflix might make 10 seasons primarily based on this distinctive little whisky alone. Distinctive in a number of senses of the phrase.
SGP: 562 – 92 factors. |
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Blended Malt Whisky 27 yo 1993/2021 (53.2%, C. Dully Choice, sherry hogshead, cask #13, 317 bottles)
This one hails from ex-Edrington inventory. We’ve by no means actually adopted these releases, which might include something from Macallan and Highland Park to Tamdhu and Glenrothes. It might be incredible information if this seems to be… HP. Color: amber gold. Nostril: large doses of butterscotch, praline, cornflakes, Golden Grahams, maple syrup, cigarettes, crème caramel, adopted by a bouquet of yellow flowers and a great deal of honey… With water: a contact of ink and tar, together with a faint metallic word, like an previous dumpy black bottle. You recognize what I imply. Mouth (neat): my, that is good! A real basic, a bit spicier right here, a contact rustic, however you may really feel the potential able to explode when you add water. With water: increase! Milk chocolate, dried figs, roasted hazelnuts, Nutella, and a few previous sherry within the ‘cream’ model. End: lengthy, extra austere, dry, with tobacco and previous walnuts. Additional-dark chocolate (80% or extra) lingers within the aftertaste. Feedback: I don’t assume it is a single malt, however the marriage is so good that it’s clearly not a easy blended malt thrown collectively proper earlier than bottling both. I additionally suspect there’s fairly some Macallan in right here. Extra importantly, I feel it’s completely great and multi-dimensional.
SGP: 562 – 91 factors. |
Nicely, actually, if a session like this does not display the near-superiority of the independents (and of the brokers who feed a few of them), I don’t know what its function is. I additionally assume the brand new paradigm of single malt whisky (manufacturers down, costs down, actual high quality up) solely strengthens the phenomenon. The one factor we don’t want are independents bottling any previous garbage, nevertheless it’s been a really, very very long time since I’ve come throughout any like that. Model conceitedness – or unjustified premiumization – being down, independents should be a part of the longer term.
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