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Meat & Malt: Beer Makes Burgers Higher


All throughout the map, whether or not it’s Wisconsin’s indulgent butter burger, Minnesota’s cheese-stuffed Juicy Lucy, or the stylish Oklahoma smashburger, you’ll discover shining examples of all-American hamburgers. However regardless of the way you stack it, the one accent a burger wants is an ice chilly beer.

With grilling season underway and Individuals consuming an estimated 50 billion hamburgers yearly, we talked with beverage administrators at high burger eating places to see what they’re enthusiastic about ingesting this summer time.

red hook cheeseburger and beer in stein

Since opening 5 years in the past, Brooklyn’s Pink Hook Tavern (RHT) has change into a go-to for its seemingly easy, but singular burger. Proprietor Billy Durney had mastered all types of meat at his Hometown Bar-B-Que down the road, however not a burger. He perfected that one at Pink Hook Tavern, taking cues from the prime beef program on the 137-year-old Peter Luger Steak Home in Williamsburg. The dry-aged funk of the RHT burger, a mix of 45-day aged strip and chuck from Pat LaFrieda Meat Purveyors, wants one thing “clear and crisp, but hefty sufficient that it refreshes with every sip,” advises Rafa García Febles, Pink Hook Tavern’s common supervisor/beverage director. The burger, which took eight months of R&D, is intentionally minimalist: two slices of American cheese and a uncooked onion positioned strategically beneath the patty to sop up among the juice. “We don’t need something heavy that can make individuals really feel heavier,” explains Febles.

And whereas wine steals plenty of the eye (they’ve greater than 500 bottles on their listing), the beer program is effectively thought out, revolving principally round breweries within the 5 boroughs. “We function in a fantastic beer metropolis, and much like the ethos of our wine listing, which is considerate small producers who’re very concerned within the course of, we spotlight that [in beer] the place we will,” says Febles.

A part of the beer listing is an ode to a different NYC landmark, McSorley’s Outdated Ale Home, the quintessential 170-year-old saloon within the East Village that famously pours a “mild” and a “darkish” beer, indistinctly referenced to by their coloration moderately than class. Pink Hook Tavern discovered a porter brewed on Lengthy Island [the dark] and a British ESB [the light], known as “A Tribute to McSorley’s Ale Home” on the menu with out mentioning particular breweries. However these aren’t essentially the beers Febles would suggest for the burger.

His strategy to beer pairing is much like wine. “Typically it’s about contrasting, and since our meals tends to be richer, I are inclined to gravitate to lighter beer,” reminiscent of Interboro’s hoppy Bushburg Pilsner from Brooklyn. Febles additionally recommends just a few different borough-based brews, reminiscent of KCBC’s Iceberg Zombie, a fruited bitter, and Sumac Gose from Again Residence Beer, an Iranian-inspired beer soured with tart Persian cherries: “excessive acid, a bit of salt, good with the meals on our menu.” Febles does have a pair extra assertive beers available, reminiscent of Different Half’s Inexperienced Metropolis IPA, which is paying homage to a lighter, juicier New England-style moderately than a piney West Coast model.

On the opposite facet of the nation, at any considered one of Shoreline Burgers’ three Seattle areas (Kirkland, Redmond, West Seattle), proprietor Aaron Shepherd sticks to the same philosophy— holding issues native. 1 / 4 pound of pasture-raised NW beef comes with a alternative of toppings, together with American cheese, crisp iceberg lettuce, pink onions, and pickles. Or, you’ll be able to choose from a menu of bestselling burgers reminiscent of The Tremendous Bacon (pepper bacon, buttermilk fried onions) or The Spicy BBQ (recent jalapeños, pepper jack cheese, fried onion, NW BBQ sauce). The entire burgers are dressed with Shoreline’s secret sauce, which Shepherd confesses is his tackle Crab Louie dressing that advanced right into a “Huge Mac” sauce of types. All of this sits between a do-it-yourself bun that’s one thing between a chewy ciabatta and candy brioche that’s “mild and fluffy, however has the power to not disintegrate with a juicy burger and all of the sauce,” says Shepherd.

coastline burgers and beers and trays

Shoreline’s beer listing is constructed on acquainted provincial and paternal bonds. “My dad cherished Rainier, calling it Vitamin R, nevertheless it’s not an area brew,” so Shepherd seemed for different easy-drinking options. Georgetown Brewing’s Manny’s Pale Ale and Roger’s Pilsner are close by, superlative barely malty substitutes. The listing errs on the lighter facet, with pFriem Household Brewers’ Pilsner and GoodLife Brewing Firm’s Candy As! Pacific Ale, but in addition introduces hoppier beers reminiscent of Fremont’s Interurban IPA and Hop Valley Brewing Co.’s Kraken Stash IPA into the combination, with the right pairing depending on the way you construct your burger. It doesn’t matter what your order is, Shepherd means that on “a sizzling day you simply need to go along with one thing good and light-weight and refreshing. For chilly, crummy Seattle days, one thing a bit of heartier. Or Manny’s. It’s for all seasons!”

In Chicago, RPM Steak’s burger and beer pairing is much less seasonal than it’s tied to its evergreen toppings, or lack thereof. RPM Steak affords up almost two dozen completely different cuts of the best beef sourced from across the globe and in addition has two vastly completely different burgers: a Dry-Aged Steakburger and a Wagyu Smash Burger.

Richard Hanauer, companion and wine director of the RPM eating places, has a two-pronged strategy to beer pairing in relation to burgers. “Initially, it’s straightforward to assume the richness [of a dry-aged steakburger] could be elevated by a brown ale—[but] you’ll be able to’t beat a crisp and chilly Pilsner,” professes Hanauer. The refined saltiness of the burger contrasts the sweetness of the beer, with the carbonation appearing “like a steak knife by the meat itself,” he says. “Let the carbonation do the chewing and the bitterness stability the richness of the meat.”

burger and fries on white plate

Hanauer pours Outlaw Beer’s Mile Hello Gentle Lager (brewed by Tivoli Brewing Firm in Denver) for its “delicate but complicated layers for such an approachable beer. Particularly for a beer categorized as mild, it drinks with nice depth,” Hanauer says, marveling at its noticeable yeastiness for such a mannequin lager. The Wagyu Smash Burger is greatest with Chicago’s personal Pipeworks Brewing Co’s Lizard King American Pale Ale, which pairs with particular flavors within the garnishes moderately than the meat. The burger is completed with a yuzu kosho (a spicy Japanese citrus/pepper paste) aioli that Haunauer says “screams for Citra hops,” honing in on the tropical contact. Hanauer additionally attests that the beer is a “textural pleasure with a fantastic physique and pronounced crispness,” priming the palate for extra by reducing by the fats with out washing away the inherent taste of the burger itself.

No matter customs, environs, or condiments, beer is there to make a burger higher.

Michael Harlan Turkell, a as soon as aspiring chef, now an award-winning meals photographer and author, has shot many distinguished cooks’ cookbooks, co-authored just a few (together with “The Beer Pantry” with Chef Adam Dulye) , and wrote considered one of his personal, “Acid Journey: Travels within the Phrase of Vinegar.” Turkell has additionally been podcasting about meals and drinks for over a decade, most just lately, the Modernist Pizza Podcast.

CraftBeer.com is absolutely devoted to small and impartial U.S. breweries. We’re revealed by the Brewers Affiliation, the not-for-profit commerce group devoted to selling and defending America’s small and impartial craft brewers. Tales and opinions shared on CraftBeer.com don’t suggest endorsement by or positions taken by the Brewers Affiliation or its members.



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