Woodford Reserve is now on its twentieth version of the Woodford Reserve’s Grasp’s Assortment. (The collection obtained began in 2007, however some current years have seen double releases.) Whereas Woodford is not any stranger to wine casks, for this milestone, grasp distiller Elizabeth McCall has turned to one thing totally different: A end in Madeira casks, which may make for a polarizing whiskey. (Technically, that is composed of three totally different whiskeys — bourbon, rye, and wheat whiskey — every completed individually in Madeira casks, then blended with unfinished wheat whiskey earlier than bottling.)
I’m going to say proper now that I’m certainly polarized by it.
I knew to not count on the trademark sweetness of Woodford’s iconic bourbon proper off the bat, however the nostril of the whiskey is one thing else, providing a musky, ashy character that’s encumbered closely with notes of incense and Turkish rug store. Jap spices emerge from the glass, together with coriander and even some saffron. There’s fruit in there, nevertheless it’s very darkish, pruny, and well-oxidized — quite a bit like Madeira itself.
The palate makes for probably the most unique Woodford expression I’ve ever tried, for higher or for worse. The oxidized wine character slaps you upside the face, rapidly merging with the underlying graininess to create a gamy, peppery high quality that leans closely on natural notes — quite a bit like an enormous rye. The fortified wine simply doesn’t come throughout as an incredible complement right here, making for a somewhat cacophonous expertise that feels scattered, immature, and simply plain bizarre, and the load of the lumberyard is omnipresent. With a pungent end of inexperienced tobacco leaf, grassy rye grain, and sharp citrus peel parts, that is an intensely savory whiskey that arguably drinks extra like a bizarre craft whiskey than something comprised of a significant distiller.
Whereas I all the time applaud Woodford for pushing boundaries and taking dangers, this one simply didn’t pan out the best way I hoped.
90.4 proof.
C+ / $170 (700ml) / woodfordreserve.com
Woodford Reserve Grasp’s Assortment Madeira Cask End
$170
