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Residence Hundreds of tastings, all of the music, all of the rambligs and all of the enjoyable (hopefully!)
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Hello, that is certainly one of our (virtually) every day tastings. Santé! |
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October 5, 2024
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Angus’s Nook From our correspondent and expert taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
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Glen Mhor 1979/2004 (43%, Gordon & MacPhail) Color: gold. Nostril: hohoho, porridge with a midgie’s teaspoon of honey run by way of it. Additionally sheep wool, contemporary laundry, putty, wooden glue, plasticine and a few humorous mixture of outdated camphor and rancid tea. Extremely unlikely however not essentially ‘unhealthy’. Mouth: okay, right here I battle. Very flat, numerous clay, some skimmed milk, stale beer, outdated bread. Being sincere, it’s not so good now. End: brief, teaish, some cardboard and fleeting impressions of rice wine. Feedback: the one method is up! However critically, an excellent benchmark for a way humorous and unlikely these 70s and 80s Glen Mhor could possibly be. SGP: 441 – 77 factors.
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Glen Mhor 21 yo 1976/1997 (43%, Hart Bros) Color: pale gold. Nostril: very comparable in some respects with these humorous low-lying mineral qualities, clay, putty, barely cardboardy and porridge vibes, however right here there’s additionally some good inexperienced apple notes, flower nectars and vase water. General, somewhat extra ‘classical’, so far as Scotch whisky goes. Mouth: okay, textbook grit, gravel, chalk, aspirin, concrete. Like ingesting a tower block. Additionally reasonably a robust plasticine and even vinyl facet. Flirts with cleaning soap at instances too. End: medium, sappy, sharp, barely acidic and tangy. Will get virtually aggressively peppery after some time. Very humorous! Feedback: completely a bottling that demonstrates what made Glen Mhor such a brutalistic and difficult whisky. A whisky virtually tailor made for whisky geeks to pour blind for his or her fellow fanatics on the outset of a dramming session. Yet one more level for the apples! SGP: 251 – 78 factors.
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Glen Mhor 8 yo (57%, Gordon & MacPhail ‘Distillery labels’, Eighties) Extra energy, fewer years… Color: gold. Nostril: that is nonetheless very brutalistic and reasonably austere, however it comes with a cereal spine and sense of dusty waxiness that I discover fairly interesting. The porridge can also be again, this time with a sprinkle of salt. Then it actually begins to develop with lamp oil, animal fat, rye bread, stout, hen broth, lanolin and coal scuttle. Additionally extra of those humorous ‘Mhor-esque’ mineral touches that make you consider gravel and plasticine, however right here they’re extra managed and refined. With water: ever so barely tamer, with some refined honey, wooden spices, calmly smoked teas, newspaper ink and mashed potato. Mouth: that is fairly good, there’s clearly some sherry at play, however it appears to solely contribute to and amplify this brutality and austerity. It’s very lean, mineral and sharp in profile. Medicines, vapour rubs, tar, ham, pasta water, salt baked greens and bouillon powder. With water: at its greatest I’d say, lean, bone dry, stuffed with brittle waxes, peppery heat, dusty outdated dried herbs, camphor and a rising tang of farmyard. End: actually fairly lengthy, nonetheless reasonably fantastically peppery, stuffed with camphor, dry waxes, lamp oil once more, toolbox cloths and issues like white mushroom, petrichor impressions and moist, mossy bark. Feedback: hip flask whisky for dour teuchter farmers that personal greater than 5 tractors (solely two working). Significantly, I’d say that is the nice facet of Glen Mhor, however it’s nonetheless a complete beast of a dram. Nothing exists as we speak with this sort of profile in my expertise. SGP: 372 – 86 factors.
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Glen Mhor 30 yo 1982/2012 (54.1%, Cadenhead ‘Closed Distilleries’, bourbon, 198 bottles) Color: gold. Nostril: I take pleasure in this much more. Thick, syrupy waxes, cooking oils, bone marrow on brown bread, minimize grass and crushed flower stems that make me consider chlorophyll. Additionally, vase water, tiger balm and soot. A glimmer of mead within the background too. With water: vase water, oat milk, plain crackers and… a kiss of silage! Mouth: aaaaand, we’re again! Plasticine, camphor, barely stale however salty butter, extra bone marrow, suet, bouillon, crushed parsley, mashed parsnip and yeasty sourdough. Citric acidity, low mendacity waxes, extra cooking oils and a few paraffin. With water: sharp inexperienced apple, extra fruit acids, will get tighter, sharper and usually extra nervous. Previous olive oil, lemon balm, chalk and aspirin. Can Glen Mhor remedy its personal complications? Feedback: I consider Glen Mhor might possess the ability to kindle masochism, as a result of I reasonably take pleasure in this one. Now, technically talking, it’s nonetheless all over, however the enjoyable issue may be very excessive. SGP: 362 – 81 factors.
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Glen Mhor 30 yo 1975/2005 (51.2%, Glenkeir Treasures, 270 bottles) This bottling collection actually takes me again to being at Uni in Glasgow from 2003-2007 (Movie & TV research, in case you had been asking). Color: vibrant straw. Nostril: farmyard cider, wee inflections of silage, smoked teas and smoked beers, coal scuttle and a slowly rising waxy facet. Additionally extra of those crushed flower stem and vase water vibes. With water: banana bread, olive oil, barely ‘off’ waxes, wild garlic and additional grassy and beery ‘stuff’. Mouth: very dry, sappy, peppery and with a pointy medicinal streak that makes me surprise if this wasn’t from an ex-peater cask? Very robust and again on austerity as much as 11. A great deal of limestone, concrete, graphite with funky notes of pickled tarragon and mashed turnip! With water: disjointed and reasonably all over, some low mendacity emotions of peat, some drugs, some bitter natural notes, yoghurt, aniseed, beer as soon as once more and rancid malt. End: medium, arid, gritty, austere and with some mashed veg and cereals. Feedback: a difficult one in that there are components I actually fairly take pleasure in, however the entire is absolutely fairly all over and discombobulating. Like 5 whiskies stitched collectively by a one-armed lunatic. SGP: 263 – 77 factors.
This bottling collection actually takes me again to being at Uni in Glasgow from 2003-2007 (Movie & TV research, in case you had been asking). Color: vibrant straw. Nostril: farmyard cider, wee inflections of silage, smoked teas and smoked beers, coal scuttle and a slowly rising waxy facet. Additionally extra of those crushed flower stem and vase water vibes. With water: banana bread, olive oil, barely ‘off’ waxes, wild garlic and additional grassy and beery ‘stuff’. Mouth: very dry, sappy, peppery and with a pointy medicinal streak that makes me surprise if this wasn’t from an ex-peater cask? Very robust and again on austerity as much as 11. A great deal of limestone, concrete, graphite with funky notes of pickled tarragon and mashed turnip! With water: disjointed and reasonably all over, some low mendacity emotions of peat, some drugs, some bitter natural notes, yoghurt, aniseed, beer as soon as once more and rancid malt. End: medium, arid, gritty, austere and with some mashed veg and cereals. Feedback: a difficult one in that there are components I actually fairly take pleasure in, however the entire is absolutely fairly all over and discombobulating. Like 5 whiskies stitched collectively by a one-armed lunatic. SGP: 263 – 77 factors.
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Let’s attempt to present a unique facet of Glen Mhor with this final one…
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Glen Mhor 30 yo 1967/1997 (60.1%, Gordon & MacPhail for thirtieth Anniversary of Barmetro, sherry, 199 bottles) A well-known bottling! Color: mahogany. Nostril: one other universe! An unctuous and highly effective sherry, very leathery, mineral and barely animalistic with furs, outdated pinot noir and essentially the most lovely cured meats. There are additionally great fruity particulars akin to spiced marmalades, some very outdated Cointreau, figs in syrup and marzipan. Fairly beautiful! With water: it’s humorous, you even get a way of that Glen Mhor concrete and austerity beneath all these great wooden saps, fir resins, ointments and valuable hardwoods. Big whisky! Mouth: dominating and intensely highly effective however nonetheless managed and with massively spectacular gamey and umami notes. Drenched in Maggi, pepper sauce, Serrano ham, anchovy paste and forest mushrooms. Additionally gathers extra sticky darkish fruit traits, because it did on the nostril, the extra it develops. With water: goes actually in the direction of camphor, shoe polish, booze-filled darkish candies, bitter marmalade with coriander seeds and winter mulling spices. The facility by no means wanes. End: very lengthy! Bitterly natural, with hints of salted liquorice, tar extracts, wintergreen, sultanas and clove. Feedback: the unstoppable pressure of an incredible old skool sherry cask meets the immovable object that was Glen Mhor distillate. The consequence is an excellent however extraordinarily highly effective and monolithic whisky. You possibly can eat sixteen bowls of porridge, arm your self with twelve magnums of Highland Spring, put on a bandolier of pipettes and this wee beastie would nonetheless defeat you in tasting battle on the finish of the day! SGP: 562 – 93 factors.
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It’s definitely true that there are older Glen Mhors, from the Sixties and earlier manufacturing eras, that may be actually spellbinding. They have an inclination to take a seat rather more inside that typical, outdated type, ‘Highland’ profile of immensely fats, charismatic, distillate pushed whiskies. I’m actually fascinated by these outdated, younger official bottlings below the Charles MacKinlay labels (WF94 for one such instance). Fairly what occurred from across the late Sixties onwards at Glen Mhor, I simply couldn’t inform you, however it appears the Seventies and Eighties actually specialised on this hyper-austere and fairly ‘whacky’ profile of distillate. It’s an amazing instance of how not all old-style whiskies had been essentially higher, or extra technically spectacular, than fashionable examples. It’s true that the majority whiskies made in Scotland as we speak are technically higher and simpler to drink than the Glen Mhors we tasted as we speak, however I’d say that not so many are as ‘off the wall’ and entertaining. Whiskies like Glen Mhor contributed to a way more numerous, diverse and fewer homogenised whisky panorama of their day. It might not seem like it from the scores, however I actually loved as we speak’s wee session.
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Heartfelt because of Enrico, Phil T and Jason!
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