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| Hello, that is certainly one of our (nearly) each day tastings. Santé! |
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December 24, 2024
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Have a beautiful Christmas Eve!
We’ve at all times cherished whisky adverts round Christmas time—right here’s one from White Horse in 1966. That specific White Horse should definitely have contained one, if not two, of the malts we’ll be tasting at present. We’ve ready a shock tasting for you tomorrow…
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WF’s Little Duos: Right this moment Lagavulin vs. Brora (plus bonus) |
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| Brora by evening, June 2024 (WF Archive) |
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It’s extremely uncommon right here to check two whiskies from totally different distilleries, however in any case, each are a part of the Diageo secure, and one won’t exist with out the opposite. Certainly, it’s well-known that the scarcity of peated whisky manufacturing on Islay at a time when demand for “smoky” blends like Johnnie Walker was on the rise led Diageo’s predecessor, the D.C.L., to hunt options on the mainland. Following experiments at a number of distilleries, they finally settled on the disused Clynelish distillery, which had been closed for 2 years.
Positive, Port Ellen had been revived in 1967, however Islay confronted a extreme drought in 1968, and Caol Ila on the time was a lot smaller than it’s at present. Curiously, after a number of trials utilizing malted barley from Ord, it was in Might 1969 that the DCL board concluded that the brand new peated distillate from Clynelish II (which might formally grow to be Brora in December of that very same yr) was now “indistinguishable from the output of Lagavulin” in addition to from their different two Islay distilleries. In hindsight, such a declare appears exaggerated after having tasted over 160 totally different expressions, however the legend of Brora was starting to take form…
It’s value noting that different distilleries additionally began producing closely peated whiskies round this time, together with Glen Garioch, which turned a part of Bowmore’s portfolio shortly after, Springbank (with Longrow), and Tobermory (producing Ledaig). Maybe it was throughout this era that most of the people began associating Scotch whisky as an entire with being “smoky.” Even at present, you continue to meet individuals who shrink back from Scotch whisky as a result of they imagine it’s all “smoky.” Loopy, isn’t it?
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Lagavulin 30 yo 1991/2021 (45.5%, OB, Casks of Distinction, First-fill PX/Oloroso seasoned European oak, cask #5399, 482 bottles) 
A Cask of Distinction bought and bottled for Asia, as lots of them are. Sometimes, a number of bottles discover their manner again to Europe, although I need to admit I’ve by no means seen something from this specific cask, even when we’ve already tasted a number of of those 1991 ‘COD’ ex-first-fill sherry casks with carefully associated numbers. As they are saying, these things is dynamite, child. What’s extra, casks with a comparatively low ABV usually present some further surprises. Color: full gold. Nostril: good heavens, such compactness and robustness. To start out, it’s like a liquid product designed to clear your sinuses, filled with camphor, eucalyptus, and comparable notes. Then it begins to unleash a barrage of aromas, every extra highly effective than the final, not essentially in a really orderly vogue, however with a way of overwhelming invasion that you are able to do nothing to cease. Seaweed, pepper, brine, shellfish, inexperienced walnuts, miso, peat smoke, resinous smoke, bitter oranges, myrtle, iodine tincture, balms, thuja wooden, tobacco, recent leather-based, tar, new rubber, saffron, coriander, recent plastic… you see, it’s fairly monstrous. Did we already point out myrtle? I believe it’s time to name within the Anti-Maltoporn Brigade. Mouth: extremely highly effective regardless of the formally reasonable energy, and as soon as once more, you’re feeling as for those who’ve been silenced (and who stated “about time,” eh?). A lot of tar, oysters, liquorice, and each black and inexperienced olives, together with anchovies in brine, bitter orange, cinchona, ashes, and easily what we name “peat.” An enormous sense of satiation—this Lagavulin nearly nourishes you—however will the end sustain at this degree, given the ABV?… End: oh sure, it does, and that is the place it feels probably the most quintessentially ‘Lagavulin.’ Peppery tar, zest, curry, and extra shellfish. Fairly a powerful size, with nearly refreshing peppermint on the very finish. Feedback: we informed you so, didn’t we? And let’s additionally say it—there’s even a bit nod to ‘Jamaica’s HMPDN’.
SGP:567 – 93 factors. |
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Brora 45 yo 1978/2023 (49.4%, OB, Casks of Distinction, cask #P5V2, 255 bottles, 2024)
A brand new Cask of Distinction offered within the legendary sq. decanter fairly than the sequence’ conventional bottle, and bottled precisely one yr in the past, on 15 December 2023. At Diageo, there usually appears to be a ‘sure time’ between bottling and the discharge of those prestigious sequence. I’ll add that, in principle, these 1978s are typically much less peaty than the early Seventies, in fact, but in addition some 1977s, that are comparatively unusual but have lately shocked us with their energy. Color: pure gold. Nostril: you can’t deny a sure kinship with Lagavulin, although let’s say that is much less ‘coastal’ and extra about waxes, putty, and turpentine. It’s additionally much less medicinal general, extra refined and chic, with important oils, a faint farmy contact usually famous up to now (assume an impeccably clear secure, with saddle leather-based), and Japanese seaweed—wakame and the like—served with recent langoustines, all laid on a mattress of clay. Briefly, on the nostril this can be a fairly delicate and chic 1978 Brora, with smoke that envelops every little thing however by no means tries to dominate. Mouth: very distinctive, markedly farther from Lagavulin on the palate, leaning extra in the direction of top-quality inexperienced teas, gentle resins, and citrus zests, adopted by a barely peppery and petrol-like character with a faint prickle. Pine bud-steamed fish, gum arabic, a contact of recent rubber, then hints of yellow chartreuse and peppery honey. To be trustworthy, it turns into more and more “Brora” because it evolves. With a drop of water simply to check: the salinity involves the forefront, with an general profile harking back to an previous Talisker, which gained’t shock many. Magnificent. End: good size, eminently Brora, extra lemony, extra peppery, and extra… medicinal. The oak is extra outstanding within the aftertaste—it might be that a number of extra years would have been barely extreme. Feedback: an previous Brora that edges into the ‘resinous period’ after 45 years within the cask. Properly, that fits it fantastically. The Lagavulin had a contemporary contact, whereas this Brora feels extra, let’s say, conventional. We predict it could be inelegant to assign them totally different scores.
SGP:465 – 93 factors. |
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Excuse me? Port Ellen? However in fact! We’ve already tasted fairly a number of pretty younger PEs this month, although I’m undecided whether or not they’ll have been printed by the point you learn this (no that’s tomorrow – S.). Irrespective of—let’s add one other, barely ‘older’ Port Ellen to this little session.
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Port Ellen 1982/2024 (58.1%, Malts of Scotland, Non-public Inventory, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS PS002, 169 bottles)
2023 and 2024 have been landmark years for Malts of Scotland and their líder máximo Thomas, with quite a few fairly breath-taking releases that, most significantly, have been markedly totally different from what most different independents sometimes supply. Whereas others usually launch batches in waves—assume Teaninich, Fettercairn, Benrinnes, Ben Nevis, Benriach, Loch Lomond, Glen Scotia, Inchgower, Glentauchers, Ledaig, or the key Laphroaigs, Ardbegs, HPs, and even the legendary Malt Mills (simply joking)— ‘MoS’ has taken a unique strategy, and this outstanding Port Ellen is an ideal instance. Except, in fact, a wave of impartial Port Ellens is on the horizon, although that appears unlikely, doesn’t it? Color: amber. Nostril: regardless of the age, that is extra brutal, extra rustic than Brora, peatier too, extra mineral, nearly chalky, and naturally tarry. There are additionally pencil shavings, extra chocolate, and occasional, undoubtedly from the sherry cask. Bitter cherry jam and tobacco are current as effectively, however in the end, it’s the coal tar that guidelines the roost at cask energy. With water: not a lot change, besides it sharpens up dramatically, which we totally get pleasure from. A putting mineral precision, fairly surprising from a sherry cask, together with hints of verbena and absinthe ‘only for enjoyable.’ General, it’s a contact extra compact than the noses of the opposite two. Mouth (neat): immensely highly effective, full of ashes and peppery lemon. What a beast! It even evokes holly eau-de-vie—sadly onerous to seek out as of late, as nobody appears to drink it anymore. Philistines! With water: tighter, nearly youthful, saltier, and nonetheless ultra-precise. Pepper and hints of pine bark (or one thing comparable). End: extraordinarily lengthy, nearly violent at this stage—that is exactly what struck us within the first Port Ellens, just like the Uncommon Malts. The aftertaste brings liquorice, resins, and salted tar. No prisoners. Feedback: let’s keep gents—there’s no query of scoring this one larger than the others.
SGP:567 – 93 factors. |
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… I need to admit to having a really, very slight choice for the Brora in the long run, attributable to its additional contact of class. Proper then, till subsequent time!
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(Danke schoen Dave, Gene, and Wei Jie)
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