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| Hello, that is one among our (virtually) every day tastings. Santé! |
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November 10, 2024
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A phrase of warning
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are finished from the perspective of a malt whisky fanatic who, what’s extra, is aboslutely not an skilled in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or every other spirits. Thanks – and peace! |
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The panorama round Château Whiskyfun has modified: the leaves have fallen from the vines, the few fields lie fallow, and a peaceable silence hangs over the small city, interrupted solely by the distant cries of some migratory birds and the barking of a canine ready for its proprietor outdoors the bakery door. And right here we’re, with a number of rums on the desk (what a garbage introduction, S.!).
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At Poisson on Marie-Galante.
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Père Labat ‘Le Rhum Soleil’ (55%, OB, Marie-Galante, agricole, +/-2023) 
By Distillerie Poisson. The label calls it ‘rhum brun’, but its look is extra akin to a pale straw. Aged – or extra exactly, gently oxygenated – for six months in a big oak vat. Color: white wine. Nostril: a pleasant burst of inexperienced and black olives that one can’t assist however relish, laced with diesel fumes and powerful adhesive, alongside ultra-ripe bananas and the full of life scent of recent sugarcane juice. An outstanding distillate with merely a contact of air, blissfully free from any intrusive woodiness. With water: minimal change, save for a delicate shift in the direction of a brinier profile with an added sweetness and a contact extra cane juice. Mouth (neat): daring and bracing, with notes of anise becoming a member of lemon and olives. An exciting sharpness certainly. With water: earthy, barely tarred cane emerges, accompanied by lemon and grapefruit zest. End: lengthy and enduring, dominated by a triumphant return of olives, hints of seawater, and a follow-up of lemon peel. Feedback: Père Labat is persistently glorious, and this expression shines notably properly in its pure state. Or in uncountable numbers of Ti’ Punches.
SGP:462 – 87 factors. |
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Since we’re speaking about amber or straw tones…
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Neisson ‘Profil Equilibre Carole Aurore’ (49%, OB, Martinique, LMDW Foundations, 2024)
An intriguing mix of three distinct rums aged between 12 and 24 months in new American oak casks. Neisson, recognized for preserving the purity of its distillate, faces the take a look at of this ‘wooden expertise’ experiment. Color: pale gold. Nostril: decidedly softer, extra refined (though Martinique and Guadeloupe have been something however civilised recently), with hints of melon sorbet, banana, and candy liquorice, adopted by delicate notes of courgette flower, honeysuckle, and yuzu. Recent turmeric and a contact of verbena emerge earlier than the recent cane steps in assertively. Mouth: well-balanced certainly, showcasing lemon, a pleasant salinity, liquorice, and a whisper of fruit-tree sawdust or maybe sandalwood? The woody notes harmonise seamlessly with the salted liquorice. End: lengthy and saline, with a manzanilla-like character that we so admire. Feedback: a wonderful younger Neisson, expertly crafted as anticipated, although maybe considerably overshadowed by the pristine purity of the Père Labat.
SGP:561 – 85 factors. |
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Islay Rum ‘Barrel Aged’ (46%, OB, UK, 2024)
We’ve tasted a number of rums aged in Islay whisky casks earlier than (a little bit of a Frankenstein idea, when you ask me, even when it’s well-executed and somewhat pleasant). This one hails from the esteemed Classic Malt Whisky Firm, a good bunch, and is crafted on the outdated lemonade works reverse Port Ellen Distillery. Fairly the invigorating setting, little question. With Islay not precisely famend for sugarcane fields, one presumes imported molasses or cane ‘honey’ should be used. It brings to thoughts ‘Ninefold,’ an honest Scottish rum we scored at WF 79. Color: straw/pale gold. Nostril: properly, it’s completely charming! You’d virtually suspect a number of nocturnal litres of Port Ellen have been siphoned off (if solely Port Ellen had restarted earlier, one may significantly surprise). Spruce wooden, tarmac, petrol, inexperienced olives, baker’s yeast, charcoal smoke, seawater, and a few oysters… it’s pleasant, straddling English and French types with a transparent Islay twist. Mouth: ah sure, right here we discover peat ash intertwined with tar, seawater, and people iconic olives, dotted with a number of lemon zest shavings. Probably the work of coastal casks lending their magic to the maturation. End: lengthy, smoky, ashy. Feedback: Jamaica has typically been dubbed ‘the Islay of rum,’ however by no means has Islay been referred to as ‘the Jamaica of whisky’—there’s a primary time for all the things. All in all, we discover it really pleasant and never as ‘transitional’ as one may assume; a go to to the distillery is definitely so as.
SGP:563 – 85 factors. |
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Tierra Madre ‘Island Signature’ (40%, Odevie, Guatemala, +/-2024) 
Regardless of its lofty getting older within the Guatemalan highlands, which could problem its ‘island rum’ designation, does that actually matter? When Guatemala is talked about, names like Botran and Zacapa spring to thoughts—Darsa, in different phrases. Let’s see if this one follows the sugary path. Color: gold. Nostril: sure, there’s grapefruit and pineapple liqueur, with hibiscus and ylang-ylang notes, presenting as somewhat inviting and recent. So, so far as the nostril goes, test! Mouth: it’s a contact candy, mild, and barely herbaceous, that includes cane and cane syrup, a touch of candied sugar, and whispers of baked apple with cinnamon. Nice sufficient, although decidedly mild. End: brief, with a touch of bitterness and a contact of liquorice wooden. Feedback: far much less cloying than the everyday Guatemalan rums we’re acquainted with (and never ones usually endorsed by the World Dentist Organisation).
SGP:551 – 78 factors. |
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Grays Very Particular Orange Product 4 yo (50%, Vagabond Spirit, Mauritius, 2024) 
An intriguing creation certainly. It is a 51-month-old rhum traditionnel from Mauritius, given a last flourish with a 2-month end in Cognac casks (frequent sufficient) and ex-orange liqueur casks from Prunier (not often seen). Lowered meticulously, ‘drop by drop,’ from 64% to 50%, in step with the creed of true artisans. Color: full gold. Nostril: the world is split into two camps (and never simply Democrats and Republicans)—those that adore grand orange liqueurs of all types, and those that’ve by no means tried them. This affable rum bridges that divide properly. Notes of orange, orange blossom, acacia honey, with hints of chalk and earth. With water: much more orange blossom, recent panettone, orange cream, and orange cupcakes emerge. Mouth (neat): extra advanced on the palate, with notes paying homage to marc and berry eau-de-vie, all layered with honey and orange marmalade. It’s potent. With water: a delicate medicinal contact that’s somewhat intriguing. General, it really works seamlessly. End: medium size, light, that includes peach yoghurt, seemingly an affect from the Cognac. A quinine-like word lingers within the aftertaste. Feedback: approaching the realm of spiced rum however much more intricate than a lot of the few I’ve tasted. I had my doubts, nevertheless it’s genuinely excellent.
SGP:741 – 83 factors. |
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T.D.L. 14 yo 2009/2024 (63%, The Roots for Dram4ALS, Trinidad, bourbon cask, cask #4, 201 bottles) 
This particular bottling helps a noble trigger, with proceeds aiding the struggle towards Amyotrophic Lateral Sclerosis in honour of Alain. Color: amber. Nostril: a mix that oscillates between the exuberant fruitiness of some TDLs and the extra industrial, petrol-like qualities of sure Caronis, if that paints an image. Whiffs of hair lotion and hairspray be a part of ripe mango, banana, and an abundance of liquorice. Exhausting to delve deeper at this excessive ABV, nonetheless. With water: salted liquorice fudge (visually paying homage to coal), recent rubber, shoe polish, and the anticipated olives seem. This Trinidadian rum leans into Jamaican territory. Mouth (neat): a heady mixture of petrol, salt, overripe mango, pineapple eau-de-vie, pepper, and polish. And, notably, a major ethanol punch. With water: an unique fruit medley meets seawater and shoe polish—unexpectedly pleasant. End: very lengthy and really saline. Feedback: fairly the formidable beast; when you purchase a bottle, guarantee your pipette is at hand (and know you’re exceptionally elegant for supporting Dram4ALS).
SGP:662 – 90 factors. |
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Hampden 8 yo 2016/2024 ‘LROK’ (65%, Relaxation & Be Grateful for Wu Dram Clan and Kirsch Import, cask #4, 2024)
Color: gold. Nostril: I’ll be temporary. Brake mud (assume Parisian metro), pickle brine, inexperienced olives, preserved lemon, Atlantic sea spray (why not?), and borderline overripe mango. With water: simply unmistakably Hampden. A bit like Ardbeg, the place naming the distillery says all of it. New rubber. A buddy as soon as quipped about “a latex S&M swimsuit,” although we haven’t spoken to him in ages—fortunately. True story. Nonetheless, you get the drift, I hope. Mouth (neat): chic salted lemon infused with petrol and ash. Fairly the powerhouse, however you probably did discover the energy, proper? With water: someplace between high-quality fino sherry, praline, and salted lemon main straight to agave spirit and even sotol, for selection’s sake. Be aware to self: strive a number of sotols one Sunday, house allowing. End: very lengthy, with gherkins, olives, and salmiak. An surprising contact of vanilla within the aftertaste. Feedback: an impressive younger Hampden, robust to beat in its league.
SGP:463 – 90 factors. |
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HD Jamaica 2013/2024 (60.3%, The Whisky Jury for Take care of Craft Spirits and Whisky-Age, refill barrel, cask #434985, 270 bottles)
Only a reminder: right here, ‘HD’ doesn’t imply Harley-Davidson. Color: pale gold. Nostril: oh, right here we go—ash galore (cigar, resinous wooden, charcoal), seamlessly intertwined with lemon, tar, brine, and petrol. Plus hints of slate and basalt. That’s it, nevertheless it’s greater than sufficient. I need to confess (for the umpteenth time), I like this profile. With water: that exhaust pipe notes of an outdated automotive burning a little bit of oil, acquainted from sure Hampden releases. Add carbon paper, outdated books, a touch of yellow curry, and mango chutney… there’s exceptional depth as you dig in. Mouth (neat): virtually binary, dominated by salted lemon. Fantastic, however realizing it’ll shine with water… With water: certainly, traditional, flawless, peppery and saline, with simply the correct amount of rubber, tar, glue, and lemon. End: similar story, it lingers for ages. Sudden icy mint touches on the back-palate. Feedback: much more intensely saline than the already stellar 2016. Proof that age really issues, even for these powerhouse rums.
SGP:473 – 91 factors. |
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 Test the index of all rums we have tasted to this point
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