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| Hello, that is one in all our (virtually) day by day tastings. Santé! |
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September 20, 2024
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Properly, it’s my birthday right now. Not Whiskyfun’s, my very own. That’s ((82+26)/40,5) years, I feel, and I believed we might style two or three fairly particular Highland Parks for the event, what do you say? We’ll even be sampling loads of Secret Orkneys or Whitlaws quickly, however not right now. Let’s attempt to begin with a little bit of aptitude, with an aperitif at 43.4% vol.
The common-or-garden creator in 2002, across the early days of Whiskyfun, with some pretty current whiskies, together with, if I recall accurately, an HP from Murray McDavid. How time flies, and so forth, and so forth, and so forth…
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Highland Park 15 yo 1964/1979 (86.8 US proof, Averys for Corti Brothers, 75cl) 
A marvellous bottling from Averys of Bristol, imported by Marshal Taylor Restricted of San Francisco for the famend Corti Brothers, ‘gourmand meals and positive wine specialists in Sacramento since 1947’. We’ve sampled the 1963, 1968, and 1970 variations earlier than, however by no means this uncommon 1964. Color: white wine. Nostril: completely splendid, with pinpoint precision on fire ashes, lime, and seawater. There’s an unexpectedly contemporary, medicinal peat, adopted by a full-on assault of tangerines—assume a whole truckload. A contact of chalk rounds out this image of pure pleasure. Mouth: firmer and even fairly highly effective, waxy, smoky, then it softens a bit with notes of fragrant white wine (Rhône valley) and honey. Overripe plums and peaches emerge, alongside a curious trace of langoustines—sure, actually. The island character is deeply pronounced, although the palate is rounder than the nostril, akin to sure rums. It’s gentler than different Corti vintages, at the least so far as reminiscence serves. End: lengthy, each spherical and perfumed, with a coastal smokiness. There’s a refined trace of candy radish within the background. Feedback: extra exact on the nostril than the palate, nevertheless it’s all completely marvellous. These Highland Parks distilled within the Nineteen Sixties have been in a league of their very own, very similar to the Laphroaigs or Bowmores. I’ll have to go to Corti Brothers sometime—who is aware of, there may nonetheless be some outdated instances hidden behind stacks of empty crates in a cellar someplace. Who stated the longer term belong to those that consider in the great thing about their desires?
SGP:562 – 93 factors. |
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What we like about US proof levels is that they’re much simpler to transform than UK proof levels. You simply divide by two, and voilà, you’ve the % alcohol by quantity.
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Highland Park 1988/2023 ‘Classic Launch’ (43.8%, OB, bourbon hogsheads and European oak, 625 bottles)
I am so wanting to style this current child that I will not even hassle writing an introductory sentence (however you simply did, S.) Color: full gold. Nostril: properly, they could have made a mistake right here—absolutely it is a cask from the Nineteen Sixties? It actually has that splendidly honeyed, delicately minty profile, with tiny hints of camphor and grapefruit liqueur, rounded off by moss, ferns, and the scent of a freshly opened pack of cigarettes (you recognize, those docs used to choose in outdated adverts). Mild whiffs of outdated wooden, a dusty wine cellar, maybe even a contact of morels. Completely masterful, this 1968… I imply, 1988. Mouth: a bit extra sturdy and rustic, as one may count on, however nonetheless magnificent, with very ripe apples, perhaps a few raspberries, apricot, honey, a touch of lavender sweets, a contact of pink pepper, after which some orange marmalade and quince paste. At no level do the 43.8% ABV really feel a tad too low. End: virtually lengthy, nonetheless fantastically honeyed, with a couple of sultanas and a touch of orange blossom water. A hint of smoke lingers on the aftertaste. Feedback: no must beat across the bush—that is up there with the perfect, on par with the Averys. Although this official +/- 35-year-old (which additionally occurs to be my age, ha!) feels noticeably richer. Maybe a well-timed household re-racking did the trick.
SGP: 651 – 92 factors. |
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Highland Park 54 yo 1970/2024 (42%, Duncan Taylor, Rarest Assortment, Accolade, sherry oak cask, cask #3254, 158 decanters)
Offered in a ‘dagger-type’ decanter, which might actually double, as soon as emptied, as a chic vessel for airing your Pétrus or Romanée-Conti earlier than dinner. Notably, this Highland Park has spent its complete life in the identical sherry cask, with none boosting alongside the best way. I need to say, Duncan Taylor’s method of showcasing their treasures from outdated casks is nothing wanting spectacular. Color: full gold. Nostril: completely magical, decanter or no decanter. It jogs my memory of the official ‘John Goodwin Retirement’ launch if that rings a bell. Wonderful honey, Sauternes, winery peaches, apricot ganache, and a contact of peppermint, adopted by rosewood and sandalwood. The nostril is sort of easy, compact even, which is an amazing high quality after greater than 50 years. It additionally evokes a positive, equally aged Grande Champagne, which is actually no dangerous factor both. Mouth: I anticipated some wooden upfront, however no, it’s as contemporary as a daisy, nonetheless dripping in honey, outdated Sauternes, and aged Cognac, with extra blood oranges than anticipated, even a touch of mangoes and guavas—an surprising delight! Praline and nougat spherical it out, although it hardly wants that assist. End: a touch of wooden finally, probably Darjeeling ‘first flush’ (if I’m not mistaken), however the oranges, mangoes, and honey shortly reassert themselves after a couple of seconds. The aftertaste is astoundingly contemporary and fruity. Feedback: individuals usually say those that purchase bottles like this (north of £20K) by no means truly open them. Properly, if that’s true, they’re lacking out. What a marvel! And once more, these 42% don’t present in any respect—that is in no way a light-weight malt. Now, for the compulsory draw back (thesis and antithesis, because it have been): a decanter crafted like it will actually collect a little bit of mud, no? And in the event you go away it in its field, it loses a contact of its attract. Definitely a merciless dilemma. Oh, and no matter you do, don’t drop this ‘dagger’ bottle in your foot, or worse, in your priceless Renaissance tiles within the kitchen.
SGP:651 – 94 factors. |
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Proper, one final one, a bit cheaper although, simply to return again all the way down to earth after these three absolute gems from Orkney, Sacramento, and Huntly…
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Highland Park 18 yo 2004/2022 (59.7%, Ferg & Harris, oloroso cask end, cask #4689, 285 bottles) 
I do consider that is the primary time we’re sampling a malt from these new unbiased bottlers. No offence meant, however the title does sound a bit like a British royal couple, doesn’t it? Joking apart, it’s refreshing to see the distillery’s full title on an indie label once more. Color: gold. Nostril: discreet however noticeable sherry, bringing chocolate and walnut liqueur to a base that’s very a lot ‘trendy HP’, earthy, coastal, and gently smoky. Lapsang and Assam teas make an look as properly. It’s additionally a tad sturdy. So, with water: cigars, leather-based, and cherry wooden come to the fore, with a faint contact of cured ham. Mouth (neat): daring and completely pleasant, salty, lemony, earthy, with loads of nuts, leather-based, and a whisper of mustard. There’s a somewhat amusing back-and-forth between the distillate and the Oloroso end, virtually like a recreation of ping-pong. With water: a refined floral observe emerges—jasmine, violet, lavender—all very delicate. And naturally, a little bit of heather honey. End: lengthy, mineral, smoky, but additionally honeyed with a scattering of dried fruits. Chocolate with a pinch of salt lingers on the aftertaste. Feedback: this glorious middle-aged dram has held its personal remarkably properly after three outdated legends, hats off to it, that wasn’t a straightforward feat.
SGP:552 – 88 factors. |
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(Merci beaucoup Logan, additionally Kirsty and Martin – and cheers, Olivier!)
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