The Douro valley is rightly recognized for its fortified wines. However its desk wines are additionally properly value exploring, as Barbara Drew MW explains.
After I point out Portugal as a wine-producing nation, the response is invariably, “Ah sure, Port!” That is usually adopted by “Ooh, too candy”, “too alcoholic”, or “not for me”. These misconceptions are for one more article (in brief, Port positively is for you). However for immediately I wish to give attention to the nonetheless or desk wines of Portugal.
That is barely complicated terminology for the uninitiated and refers to wines that aren’t fortified; which might be made in the identical approach as different pink wines from world wide; wines that in another area would merely be known as “wine”.
The Douro river valley – located in northern Portugal and heartland of Port manufacturing – needs to be probably the most stunning wine areas on this planet; a lofty accolade amongst some heavy competitors. The river wends and winds between sculpted hillsides and wild vistas. At instances it may well really feel like there’s virtually nothing else there besides slopes and vines and the occasional boat. For hundreds of years the area has been related to fortified wines – aged in enormous warehouses down on the port of Vila Nova de Gaia (simply throughout the river from town of Porto).
And the grapes that lend themselves so properly to those complicated, layered and fruit-driven fortified wines are additionally excellent in unfortified wines.
Portugal’s native grapes
Portugal has a wealth of native grape varieties. They thrive within the scorching and dry local weather of the nation’s inside, retaining their acidity and contemporary fruit flavours when temperatures soar. Touriga Nacional is maybe probably the most recognised – regardless of accounting for only a few % of plantings within the nation. Different key pink grapes embody Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo), Tinta Francesca, Tinto Cão, Bastardo, Mourisco Tinto, Tinta Amarela and Tinta Barroca.
Most of those grapes have a tendency to provide fairly low yields on this harsh and infrequently arid area. The soils listed here are very poor and the slopes are steep; most vineyards are both constructed on steep terraces, supported by hand-constructed retaining partitions, or else are planted on gently sloping vineyards. Flat land and mechanical harvesters are alien round these elements. The paltry numbers of grapes per vine permit for focus, of deep color, excessive tannin and loads of flavour.
The ensuing wines are magnificent, completely balanced regardless of their full flavours and dense tannins. As well as, some traditional French varieties have additionally discovered their approach right here. Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah thrive on the fitting websites, and are used for the native Vinho Regional wines. Much like France’s Vin de Pays or Italy’s IGT designation, the Vinho Regional wines permit for extra flexibility in how the wine is made – and may provide a few of the most modern, and nice worth wines to be discovered.
Whites from the Douro
While the area may be very a lot related to pink grapes, white grapes do thrive right here. Many go into the small proportion of White Port produced every year – scrumptious served with tonic and ice on a heat summer season’s day. However some are destined for unfortified wines. The names will check the pronunciation of even probably the most adept linguist, with Rabigato, Gouveio, Codega, Donzelinho, Malvasia Fina and Viosinho among the many listing. Many of those grapes are planted on cooler websites, be that north-facing terraces, vineyards which might be in shade for almost all of the day or areas at larger altitudes. This, mixed with their naturally excessive acidity, and early choosing, leads to pleasant dry white wines. Typically with barely floral and fruity flavours, these wines are refreshing and balanced.
For me, they’re usually a failsafe go-to, in the event you’re unsure if visitors will get pleasure from an oaked Chardonnay or a shiny and pungent Sauvignon Blanc. These are white wines which actually have the perfect of all worlds. High wines might spend a while in oak, however total the fruit and mineral character tends to dominate. Like virtually all Portuguese wines, they’re additionally criminally underpriced.
The place to search out them
This development in the direction of producing dry desk wines started with a handful of Port producers, seeking to department out, develop new merchandise and use grapes not ideally suited to their Ports. Now nonetheless virtually all Port producers additionally make desk wines. These are not any mere product extensions although; there are more and more superb wines in their very own proper.
Some take inspiration from different elements of the world. Chryseia, for instance, is a collaboration between the Symingtons, locals who’ve been making Port for hundreds of years, and Bruno Prats, initially of Bordeaux. The glossiness and slight natural notice evident in lots of good Bordeaux wines additionally shines by way of on this instance, regardless of it being made solely from native grapes (Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca). Others make determinedly native expressions, highlighting the massive vary of grape varieties which have made their residence right here. These might use differing proportions of grapes every year and even discipline blends (the place completely different varieties are all planted collectively in a single winery and harvested directly). Some decide early for contemporary, zesty kinds. Others age for a lot of months in oak barrels, so as to add spice and breadth to those hearty wines.
Whichever model you like, there’s something right here for you. And naturally, to spherical off your meal, there’s all the time a Port.
Three to strive
2022 La Rosa Reserve Branco, Quinta de la Rosa, Douro, Portugal
An attractive white wine, aromatic and floral with a contact of texture from some oak ageing. The mix is 60% Viosinho, 25% Rabigato, 5% Gouveio, and 10% a combined discipline mix. One of the vital versatile white wines I’ve but come throughout.
2021 Property Tinto, Quinta de la Rosa, Douro, Portugal
Dominated by Touriga Nacional (60%) it is a pleasant expression of a Douro pink, coming primarily from the high-altitude Lamelas winery. The nostril is shiny with raspberry syrup and plums, with some smoky spice. The tannins are silky, the acidity is refreshing and the flavours unfold in elegant layers. It’s good for mid-weight dishes, lamb or duck.
2017 Chryseia, Prats & Symington, Quinta de Roriz, Douro, Portugal Seven years after harvest, this has an enormous quantity of focus and complexity on the nostril. Darkish berry fruits and floral notes seem initially, with aromas of darkish chocolate, mocha, roast espresso bean and spicy hints of pepper and clove. The palate is full, multi-layered, and supple, with a superb stage of focus and ripe tannins offering a substantial construction to the wine. As with the perfect Bordeaux wines, will be loved now, however will reward additional cellaring.
