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Two or three Tamdhu ex-oloroso


 

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November 4, 2024


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Two or three Tamdhu ex-oloroso

Tamdhu Distillery, no pagodas however it’s nonetheless beautful (Ian MacLeod)

In fact, our predominant curiosity was in tasting the newly launched 43-year-old, which made its debut earlier this yr. We had sampled it on the Whisky Present in London, and this time, its substance completely matched its spectacular look—a uncommon feat that isn’t at all times the case elsewhere. However for now, let’s begin with a small aperitif or two…

Tamdhu 15 yo (46%, OB, first fill oloroso, +/-2024)

Tamdhu 15 yo (46%, OB, first fill oloroso, +/-2024) Four stars

We tasted a 2019 model of this 15-year-old, which again then gave the impression to be a ‘restricted launch’—or so it appeared. Both it’s since joined the core vary or has stayed ‘restricted’, however aren’t all malts considerably restricted in their very own method? Color: amber gold. Nostril: a contact of burnt wooden proper up entrance, adopted by moreish darkish chocolate and a double espresso. Behind that, hints of aged copper, crème brûlée, and walnut liqueur, with singed raisins that spent a little bit too lengthy within the oven. I’m additionally selecting up an enthralling rancio. Mouth: a perfectly bitter opening, stuffed with walnuts and bitter almonds, shortly joined by the quintessential bitter oranges, tobacco, leather-based, a whiff of curry spices, and a distinctly turmeric-like be aware. That espresso and the scorched raisins hold making an look. End: lengthy, dry, and fairly heavy on some acidic and bitter espresso, with extra walnut. Totally ‘oloroso’, with oak changing into extra assertive on the again finish. Feedback: I feel I’m revisiting that properly dry, virtually austere model it confirmed the primary time. Simply how we prefer it at Château WF.

SGP: 461 – 85 factors.

Tamdhu 18 yo (46.8%, OB, first fill oloroso, +/-2024)

Tamdhu 18 yo (46.8%, OB, first fill oloroso, +/-2024) Four stars

We didn’t significantly love the final 18-year-old we tried (WF 78), however that was an official bottling from round 2008, sporting a really completely different design and marred by a faintly cardboard-like profile—much less widespread in right now’s Scotch malt, fortunately. As soon as once more, this one is fully from oloroso-prepped casks. Color: barely darker amber. Nostril: a method fairly akin to the 15, although gentler, with extra sultanas, cloves, and a gradual construct of spices and inexperienced walnuts heading in a special path. There’s peach pores and skin, chocolate, cherry liqueur, roasted peanuts, sticky toffee pudding, and brownies… Intriguingly, it opens, closes, then opens once more over the minutes. Mouth: even nearer to the 15, with a tremendous array of bitters, bitter walnuts, darkish chocolate, closely roasted hazelnuts and pecans, pipe tobacco, toasted rye bread, malt extract, and bitter orange. End: a lot the identical construction because the 15, laden with espresso, walnut, clove, oak, and with spectacular size. The oak is pretty pronounced. Feedback: a stupendous austerity right here, each the 15 and the 18 are commendably strict, so to talk.

SGP: 461 – 86 factors.

Tamdhu 43 yo ‘Forty Three’ (50.8%, OB, The Dedication Collection, oloroso sherry, casks #234 + 236 + 1319, 100 bottles, 2024)

Tamdhu 43 yo ‘Forty Three’ (50.8%, OB, The Dedication Assortment, oloroso sherry, casks #234 + 236 + 1319, 100 bottles, 2024) Five stars

This sumptuously introduced bottle brings collectively two 1978 casks and one from 1979, although calling it a ‘multi-vintage bottling’ could be a contact grandiose. Color: amber with copper hues. Nostril: a shift away from the traditional espresso, chocolate, and roasted walnut territory, venturing as an alternative into one thing extra floral, fruity, and virtually jammy. Notes of prune, damp earth, very darkish pipe tobacco, and wafts of peony and forest flooring emerge, adopted by a fantastically refreshing eucalyptus and menthol. The complexity deepens over time, giving the impression of sniffing a black Dunhill pipe tobacco tin, an intensely wealthy mix. With a drop of water: it leans a bit towards the 18-yo, but retains its putting coherence and layered complexity. Dried figs of each type spring to life, complementing that deep pipe tobacco. Mouth (neat): an beautiful interaction of pepper and dried fruits, with dried pear slices, papaya, burnt raisins, very earthy humus, Chinese language mushrooms, petite dried figs, and roasted pecans. A shocking trio of liquorice, mint, and pepper ties the whole lot collectively seamlessly. It brings to thoughts a well-aged armagnac, lovingly stored in reserve. With water: deeply spectacular, with that peppery backbone remaining intact all through. Bitter oranges, tobacco, dry liquorice wooden, and really dry sultanas shine via. End: splendidly lengthy, sustaining a steadiness that’s without delay complicated but splendidly compact. Feedback: a real old-school Tamdhu, evoking recollections of some venerable previous Craigellachie bottlings from its former stablemate, which begins with an M. Let’s keep in mind that each distilleries have been as soon as a part of the Highland Distillers/Edrington fold, earlier than Tamdhu was bought to Ian MacLeod in 2011 following a interval of closure. It’s additionally value noting Tamdhu has proudly upheld the custom of all-sherry maturation that when outlined its illustrious counterpart. An outstanding 43 certainly!

SGP: 561 – 91 factors.

 

 
   

 

 

 

 



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