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| Hello, that is one in all our (virtually) each day tastings. Santé! |
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December 8, 2024
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Vintage Cognacs
(a barely disrupted session)
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It’s time to conclude our little vertical tasting of high-quality classic cognacs. Thus far, we’ve efficiently averted the overly standardised blends of the massive manufacturers and the borderline obscurations, and we’ve fortunately explored vintages starting from 1989 to 1970 two weeks in the past, then from 1961 to 1940 final week. At this time, we’ll naturally need to leap over the Second World Conflict, however not with out first having fun with a nice little aperitif…
Each 20 to 25 years, main manufacturers attempt to promote the usage of their spirits on the earth of cocktails, usually in an effort to offset intervals of declining gross sales. Right here, Courvoisier within the Fifties provided a mix mentioned to be good for a “lengthy drink,” clearly impressed by whisky, which was begining to flood into France after World Conflict II.
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Tiffon ‘Très Vieille Réserve’ (43%, OB, Tiffon, Grande Champagne, +/-2024) 
We first tasted this precisely 10 years in the past, and right here now we have a way more current bottling. We all know it’s excellent. Color: copper amber. Nostril: completely explosive on the nostril, virtually like an outdated gewurztraminer late harvest, and let’s admit, an outdated pineau des Charentes. The type of factor one would by no means have drunk till the nice individuals of Cognac began letting us style outdated household barrels. What a revelation, the one situation being to find out the best serving temperature—a number of faculties of thought, it appears. However again to this very beautiful Cognac: so, outdated pineau, then very outdated Malaga, raisins, artisanal peach liqueur, and a few tertiary notes of morels, tobacco, damp earth, and liquorice. At no level do the 43% really feel like a hindrance. Mouth: inevitably rather less emphatic and barely drying, maybe as a result of historic casks and the comparatively low energy. However this mix of liquorice, pine resin, and orange liqueur works superbly. Tobacco returns with a touch of menthol. End: medium in size and nonetheless barely drying, however the flavours are spot on. A contact of leather-based. Feedback: one goals of three or 4 additional levels of alcohol, however the general expertise is just glorious. We’ve simply found that the youngest Cognac on this mix is 80 years outdated, so there should absolutely be some pre-war spirit on this little gem.
SGP:551 – 88 factors.
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Maison Prunier ‘Lot 28’ (49.3%, Via the Grapevine, 7.0, Grande Champagne, 2024) 
A really outdated classic, aged in roux oak (aka refill) earlier than being transferred to a demijohn within the early Nineteen Sixties. So, we are able to estimate roughly 35 years in wooden + 60 years in glass = round 45 years by my totally unscientific reckoning. Color: mahogany. Nostril: tar, mint, and basalt, I’d say, earlier than including the everlasting winery peaches and some touches of beeswax, outdated books, abbey libraries, wild mushrooms, chestnut honey, and little liquorice pastilles like these cachous now we have in France. Possibly they added just a few to the demijohn (simply joking!). Mouth: an iron fist in a velvet glove. Honey, candy liquorice, sultanas, and citrus marmalade upfront, but additionally brown tobacco, black tea, pine buds, and floor espresso within the background. The entire thing works to perfection. End: lengthy, leaning extra in the direction of oak, black tea, and darkish chocolate, with a contact of herbaceousness, however by no means turning into overly drying. Feedback: two geniuses have been lively within the early Nineteen Sixties—(Sir) Paul McCartney and the nice soul who determined to switch this admirable outdated Cognac to a demijohn.
SGP:561 – 90 factors. |
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François Voyer ‘Temps Magique Lot 19.20’ (43.8%, Malternative Belgium, Grande Champagne, 2024)
We’re not totally certain the right way to interpret the lot quantity—1920? A multivintage 1919+1920? A 1919 transferred to a demijohn in 2020 and bottled in 2024? Let’s depart the thriller hanging—why should we at all times know every little thing? Color: walnut stain. Nostril: these preliminary puffs of pinewood suggesting very extended maturation in wooden, then shifting to different resins (spruce, cedar) earlier than an outright explosion of fruits, each dried and really ripe. A number of sorts of raisins, figs, slices of pear, dates, prunes, and eventually a freshly opened field of ‘deluxe’ pipe tobacco. Even in the event you don’t or now not smoke, it’s value selecting up a small packet simply to log the aromas in your cerebral library (proper?). After all, we’re not speaking about smoking the stuff. Then, just a few touches of liquorice, tar, extra pine resin, turpentine, and outdated orange liqueur… All in all, fairly a magical nostril. Mouth: the wooden is current, ‘after all’, however it’s very delicate and wrapped in honey, beeswax, and citrus marmalade. It’s rather more compact than on the nostril, however that’s usually the way in which with very outdated spirits. It evolves logically in the direction of pine bud liqueur, very dry rancio, and bitter chocolate. End: not many adjustments right here; the bitter chocolate and pine resin stay firmly in management. Feedback: what’s astonishing is how you are feeling the spirit of the occasions during which this marvel was distilled—so, the roaring twenties—but additionally different historic drinks of the period, similar to medicinal liqueurs, elixirs, and cordials. Actually a window to the previous, and also you virtually need to placed on Bix Beiderbecke or Maurice Chevalier on the outdated crank-driven phonograph at WF HQ. That alone earns it one additional level.
SGP:571 – 93 factors. |
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Effectively, we thought we additionally had three current bottlings of a lot older vintages, however we obtained it improper—they have been the bottling numbers, not the batch/vintages. What a blunder! However as an alternative of reimbursing you, we’d wish to make it as much as you with some very outdated bottles, if that works for you…
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Grande Champagne 1906 (Jacksons de Piccadilly, ‘Qualité Exceptionnelle’, Fifties)
Bottled for the long-lasting London grocers, tea home, and wine retailers Jacksons of Piccadilly, whose model was later acquired by Twinings. The point out of “The Queen” on the label and the absence of a energy indication counsel a bottling from the Fifties, probably that includes a Grande Champagne cognac of about fifty years. Most likely crafted from grafted vines post-phylloxera, although not sure—Cognac retained 40,000ha of vineyards round 1906 in comparison with over 300,000ha in 1870 and 75,000ha at this time (with yields now a lot greater). Color: deep gold. Nostril: fairly a little bit of OBE, I’d say, however this outdated cognac begins off a lot drier, targeted on saps and resins, earlier than opening into grilled tones, sautéed mushrooms, and brown tobacco. One is transported to a pine forest, amongst moss, ferns, and fungi—you would possibly solely miss a little bit of sport trotting by. Mouth: the profile stays constant, with pine sap and touches of liquorice sweets, adopted by a salty brothiness and that celebrated outdated rancio, displaying a well-matured woodiness and hints of ham. A hint of mead seems, with little or no fruit, although the entire is totally fascinating. Not overly highly effective however poised, holding itself admirably with none type of decline. End: of medium size, a bit softer with the late arrival of some raisins that improve the rancio. Barely oxidative, with a persistently saline aftertaste. Feedback: I need to admit, I’m impressed by how properly this very London-esque Grande Champagne has held up. And I do have a gentle spot for pine sap.
SGP:461 – 90 factors. |
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Lauzac 1906 ‘Borderie’ (37.3%)
This one got here with a captivating little handwritten label, probably a non-public bottling, or maybe the unique label was misplaced or changed by this artisanal substitute. The ABV displays the cognac’s energy on the time of opening, measured utilizing our pal Angus’s trusty Anton Parr digital alco-meter, after he uncovered this Borderies gem. That mentioned, the title ‘Lauzac’ provides no clues about any recognized location or cognac home, although there’s a Château Lauzac in Bordeaux. Maybe that is an outdated brandy de Bordeaux, with “borderie” referring, in French, to a small farm fairly than Cognac’s well-known cru. An actual thriller! Color: brownish amber. Nostril: not very highly effective, however honey and outdated raisins emerge, like these present in a tin field tucked away for many years. This develops into candy wine notes, harking back to outdated malmsey Madeira, fruit pudding, and inevitably, Christmas cake. O Tannenbaum, O Tannenbaum, wie treu… It’s all splendidly old-school, with a contact of sticky Jerez brandy about it. Mouth: that’s spot on—honey, pancake syrup, heaps of raisins, and luxurious dessert wines (assume Tokaji, Rivesaltes, Pineau…). Then come pleasant hints of fragrant herbs, aniseed, and pipe tobacco. It could really feel barely “doctored” however doesn’t veer into espresso liqueur territory. End: pretty lengthy, virtually sticky with sugary sweetness, although the herbs maintain it afloat superbly. Feedback: a fairly luscious outdated cognac (or brandy) that brings to thoughts the fashion beloved by my dearly missed grandparents. I’m pondering of them as I savour the final drops of this charming ‘Lauzac’.
SGP:650 – 89 factors. |
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Courvoisier 60 yo ‘The Brandy of Napoléon’ (Grande Superb Champagne, late Nineteen Thirties)
The “60 ans” is indicated on the primary label, whereas the second states “by appointment to the late King George V”, who handed in 1936. Doubtless bottled within the late Nineteen Thirties then, this would come with distillates from the 1860s–1870s, across the time phylloxera started ravaging the Charente vineyards (primarily planted with folle blanche) in 1872. Whereas folle blanche now accounts for simply 1% of the area’s vines, it’s having fun with renewed focus in some cuvées, and this venerable Courvoisier is probably going principally, if not totally, folle blanche. Let’s dive in! Color: walnut stain. Nostril: we hardly ever style these main manufacturers—maybe not malternative sufficient for this humble website—however I recall attempting the total Erté Assortment, throughout 60 years outdated, with vintages happening to 1892. Some have been glorious; would possibly this even older 60-year-old be in the identical league? Its deep, virtually opaque color indicators a decidedly ‘retro’ fashion, to say the least. The nostril is exclusive, wealthy with chestnut cream, milk chocolate, hazelnut unfold (from a well-known model), Corinth raisins, umeshu, mocha, and pipe tobacco. There’s a contact of morels and earthy humus typical of historic bottles, but it’s in no way mouldy—quite the opposite, it’s fairly majestic (although we wouldn’t fairly name it imperial). Mouth: the “Brandy of Napoléon” tagline doesn’t suggest distillates from the early nineteenth century (or the well-known comet 12 months of 1811), however maybe some from the Second Empire (1852–1870) could possibly be current. It is the model’s tagline anyway. After the wonderful nostril, the palate feels extra liqueur-like, as these outdated cognacs usually do, missing the definition of finer WF stalwarts. A great deal of raisins and candy wines with a pronounced “brandy” character, however hardly any contemporary fruit or spices. It’s practically a barely sugar-stripped liqueur with notes of pine buds, espresso, chocolate, fig, and honey liqueurs. Some Cognac homes do make such honey-based liqueurs (Normandin involves thoughts), as do whisky distilleries (Jack, Irish Mist, Drambuie, Bushmills, Atholl Brose, and so on.). End: medium size, candy, leaning on raisins, dessert wines (moscatel), and darkish, barely tannic honey. Feedback: fairly on the high quality for this charmingly vintage, elegantly old style fashion.
SGP:631 – 88 factors. |
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(Merci, Monsieur Angus !)
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