Single malt is way from being the only real ardour of Glenmorangie Grasp Distiller Dr Invoice Lumsden. The arch experimenter (generally jarringly dubbed the Willy Wonka of whisky) additionally has a penchant for top vogue, early Alan Partridge – and wonderful wine. He’s equally at residence discussing Sassicaia as he’s Speyside.
Scroll right down to see our number of 12 good whiskies for wine lovers
So when Glenmorangie launched its Pursuit of Ardour Wine Cask Assortment earlier this 12 months – a £7,740 trio of long-aged single malts part-matured in Margaux, Corton-Charlemagne and Barbaresco wine casks – the identify was a great deal greater than mere advertising and marketing spin. Moreover, Lumsden was perpetuating the lengthy, proud connection between the worlds of wine and whisky.
Historic coincidence and sheer practicality play a task right here. As Scotch whisky’s attraction grew in the course of the nineteenth century, the dearth of regionally grown oak meant that blenders have been compelled to look elsewhere to seek out casks through which to age and marry their spirit. Fortunately sufficient, the docks of Leith, Glasgow and Aberdeen have been heaving with barrels of wine imported from European wine areas: most famously Sherry, but in addition Port, Madeira and claret. So the thought of utilizing an outdated Margaux cask to mature Scotch definitely wasn’t invented within the twenty first century. What started as necessity – whisky makers used these casks just because they have been there – has, over time, turn out to be a fancy synergy that distillers have probed and refined.
The Sherry issue
Scott Adamson, Tomatin. Credit score: John Paul
We’ve been shopping for Sherry casks for over 100 years,’ says Scott Adamson, world model ambassador and blender for Highland single malt-maker Tomatin. ‘It’s one thing we’ve recognized for therefore lengthy that works so properly for Tomatin.’
Like Lumsden, Adamson is a wine fanatic. ‘I feel Sherry is a wine for whisky lovers,’ he says. ‘It’s bought a spot, a narrative and variety, similar to Scotch.’ Tomatin’s newest vary, the limited-edition Sherry Assortment, bridges the hole between grape and grain: displaying wine lovers how whisky and Sherry can mix to create one thing scrumptious, and displaying Sherry’s range to whisky followers.
The vary eschews whisky’s commonplace use of ex-oloroso casks – the supply of these traditional Christmas cake/dried fruit flavours – in favour of cask finishes in ex-manzanilla, palo cortado and Pedro Ximénez wooden. And these are ex-bodega casks – in different phrases, casks which have been retired from their respective Sherry-ageing soleras.
Why does this matter? Most Sherry casks used for whisky right now are bespoke creations – coopered, ‘seasoned’ with Sherry, then emptied and transported to Scotland, all to the exact specs of the distiller. They are usually extra ‘energetic’ – in different phrases the oak (be it American or European) imparts extra flavour. In the meantime ex-bodega casks are decades-old and inactive. Right here, the whisky derives characters from the cask’s earlier contents, not the wooden itself.
Wine-cask wizardry
Dalmore distillery
Trendy-day distillers have explored the broad world of wine. Tomatin, as an illustration, launched its Italian Assortment, which used ex-Marsala, Amarone and Barolo casks, final 12 months. In the meantime Lumsden has tried every part from Meursault to Bolgheri. However working with wine wooden could be a difficult enterprise: overdo it and the whisky can develop over-sweet, jammy notes.
For Lumsden, endurance is vital – he believes that these vinous notes diminish with time – whereas Adamson reckons wine casks have a quick second the place they’re at their peak. ‘You may get a incredible stability between whisky and cask – then six to 12 months later, the wine may need utterly overwhelmed it,’ he says. ‘The window of alternative is far smaller.’
At their finest, wine cask-matured whiskies are a number of the most memorable and distinctive drops round. Assume Dalmore’s deep exploration of González Byass Sherry and Graham’s Port casks; Glenmorangie’s neverending experimental streak; or the beautiful wine cask whiskies produced in whisky’s new world – Taiwan’s Kavalan, Japan’s Chichibu and Australia’s Starward to call a couple of.
If there’s an underlying rule, it’s concord between wooden and liquid. ‘There are nonetheless a few wine estates on the market that I’d wish to get my palms on,’ says Lumsden. ‘I don’t wish to identify names as I’m sizzling on their path. However the mantra for me is all the time the identical: is it true to the Glenmorangie fashion and does it really style good?’
Whiskies for wine lovers: 12 to attempt
Bunnahabhain Fèis Ile 2024 19YO Mòine Madeira Cask End
Scotland
A distillery-exclusive from this 12 months’s Islay Pageant, that is the lesser-spotted peated aspect of Bunna’, combining the distillery’s smooth, juicy fruits (mandarin, peach) alongside candy, billowing smoke and – from a seven-year ‘end’ in ex-Madeira casks – notes of roasted chestnut, candy cinnamon and prunes in chocolate. Alcohol 51.2%
Cardrona Rising Wings Central Otago Pinot Noir Cask
New Zealand
Nice Kiwi whisky meets wonderful Kiwi wine on this high-octane bottling matured for 5 years in casks provided by Mount Issue. It’s all about poise, marrying Cardrona’s honeyed apples-and-pears distillate with the wooden’s wild strawberry, vanilla-cream character. Including a little bit water opens up the aromas. Alc 67.4%
Chichibu Pink Wine Cask 2023
Japan
Take 36 casks of spirit then rack them into an array of wine wooden: Pinot Noir from Burgundy and New Zealand; Napa Cabernet; pink wine and Muscat from Japan. Chaotic? Hardly. The end result from Japanese grasp Ichiro Akuto is a seamless, delicate mixture of vibrant pink fruits, heady floral aromas and a twist of menthol. Alc 50.5%
Glenfiddich Grand Château 31YO
Scotland
Glenfiddich’s first foray into Bordeaux pink wine casks, nevertheless it received’t be its final if that is something to go by. 9 years in wine wooden dial up the distillery’s apple-scented fruit, transferring into candy layers of cassis and black cherry, backed up by warming Christmas spices. Deep and resonant. Alc 47.6%
Glenmorangie The Nectar 16YO
Scotland
There’s one thing particular in regards to the mixture of Glenmorangie with dessert-wine casks. This revamped model makes use of oak from Sauternes, Monbazillac, Spanish Moscatel and Tokaji, and is predictably decadent: sticky bread-and-butter pudding, zingy lemon, roasted almond and a slight natural elevate. Alc 46%
Kavalan Triple Sherry Cask
Taiwan
Kavalan’s sterling work with fortified-wine casks has helped safe the Taiwan distillery’s popularity on the forefront of world whisky. This can be a pitch-perfect mixture of oloroso, PX and Moscatel, piling layers of dried plum and darkish chocolate on prime of Kavalan’s juicy tropical fruits. Alc 40%
Kingsbarns Distillery Reserve 2024
Scotland
The Fife distillery’s oldest launch so far was totally matured in ex-solera oloroso Sherry casks, ushering the gently fruity and floral distillate into richer, hotter territory: candied orange peel, mulled wine spices and blackberries in darkish chocolate. Unashamedly cask-driven and as comforting as a hug. Alc 58.2%
Redbreast Lustau Version
Eire
Two masters of their craft – Midleton distillery in Eire and Bodegas Lustau in Jerez – be a part of forces on this oloroso-matured traditional. Wealthy notes of dates and liquorice distinction with the oily orchard fruit of single pot nonetheless spirit, with a chew of grip and tannin from energetic European oak. Alc 46%
Starward Fortis
Australia
Starward’s provenance-first strategy extends to this single malt aged solely in American oak pink wine casks, principally from the Barossa. Plenty of wealthy, darkish fruit, a mouthful of chocolate brownie and loads of oak-driven baking spices and tannic construction. Explosive. Alc 50%
The Dalmore Port Wooden Reserve
Scotland
Can’t afford the £35,000 for Dalmore’s just lately launched Cask Curation Sequence trio of Port-matured malts? Console your self with this festive mixture of unctuous spirit with tawny Port pipes provided by Graham’s. Raspberries in darkish chocolate and cinnamon-dusted plums, melded with darker flavours of espresso roaster, sultanas and liquorice. Alc 46.5%
The GlenAllachie 10YO Grattamacco Wine Cask End
Scotland
GlenAllachie Grasp Distiller Billy Walker’s experiments with wine casks have spawned extra hits than misses, together with this tie-in with the Grattamacco property in Bolgheri. Wealthy cassis and heady spices from the cask, however all the time GlenAllachie’s irresistible honeyed magnificence as a counterpoint. Alc 48%
Tomatin The Sherry Assortment Manzanilla Version
Scotland
Exhibiting that there’s extra to Sherry maturation than oloroso, this mix of Tomatin’s light Highland spirit with ex-solera manzanilla butts represents spirit and wooden in good concord. Contemporary-baked bread and butter, ripe citrus fruits and a flippantly nutty end, with only a lick of sea salt. Alc 46%
