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A bag of Longmorn, randomly, Half Drei Let’s style one other 5 – 6, some latest and a few older ones, in the event you don’t thoughts. Bertanne apple (Pour de Bon) |
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Longmorn 22 yo 1988/2011 (46%, Mo Òr Assortment, launch 44, bourbon hogshead, cask #14378, 411 bottles)  What an unimaginable assortment—housing all of the Scottish distilleries, even the rarest ones like Ladyburn. I feel they have been just a bit forward of their time in 2011. Color: straw. Nostril: this one is fantastically recent and citric, bursting with all types of yellow citrus fruits, then shifting in direction of freshly minimize grass, a contact of recent mint and rhubarb, and at last tiny hints of vanilla pods. Magnificent purity. Mouth: {powerful} for its pedigree, leaning extra in direction of unique fruits—banana and guava—then mead and a contact of liquorice earlier than turning into barely extra natural and bitter. As is commonly the case, 46% works very properly. End: lengthy and admittedly natural by this stage, with roasted aubergines showing within the aftertaste. Feedback: in your palate it might have misplaced a little bit of its citrus delicacy over time, however it stays wonderful. And did you discover we haven’t talked about apples? SGP:561 – 87 factors. |
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Longmorn 28 yo 1996/2024 (58.8%, The Antelope Macau & Kanpaikai Japan, refill hogshead, cask #17388, 196 bottles)  What a enjoyable label—cats now appear to reign supreme on whisky bottles for the Far East, very like they rule at Château WF, for that matter. They even seem like toppling the dragons Bowmore launched again within the Nineteen Nineties, through the period of their well-known 30-year-old ‘Sea Dragon’. Color: deep gold. Nostril: properly, that is good—worthy of purring with delight (S.!). Very good citrus notes, recent or in marmalade kind, plus crème de menthe and numerous tiny fragrant herbs, at all times round mint but additionally basil and coriander. Ever tried basil ice cream? Then come kumquats and bergamots. Totally flawless and feline (!) in class. With water: and right here come the mineral and saline notes. Mouth (neat): like a grand previous white wine of nice age. Really extraordinary—actually, 101% my most popular type. Please name the Anti-Maltoporn Brigade! With water: this now heads in direction of fruity previous cognacs—it’s unimaginable. Honey, winery peaches, candied violets, liquorice… Have you ever known as the A.M.B. but? End: blindfolded, one may genuinely mistake this for an previous cognac from a small, prestigious home, like those we regularly focus on right here. Feedback: really chic. SGP:651 – 92 factors. |
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Longmorn 23 yo 1992/2015 (52.1%, Single Cask Assortment, bourbon hogshead, cask #71757, 257 bottles) Right here we’re in Austria, with nice pleasure. We’ve already tasted a number of distinctive whiskies from the Single Cask Assortment of Wels, close to Linz. And certainly, the considered Linzertorte is now firmly lodged in my thoughts—an actual ‘palateworm’… Color: full gold. Nostril: reasonably sharp, beginning with cider apples and a contact of varnish, then unfolding into apples, pears, plums, cherries, and gooseberries. Very typical of Longmorn in its most pure state. With water: as typical, chalk, floor barley, and recent bread emerge. Impeccably pure. Mouth (neat): no Linzertorte. I repeat, no Linzertorte. As a substitute, vibrant apples, melons, pears, then a contact of inexperienced pepper blended with honey (why not?). With water: little change, aside from extra lemon. End: lengthy, turning into extra natural and peppery, with barley syrup within the aftertaste. Feedback: a fantastic beast, all pure. SGP:561 – 87 factors. |
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Longmorn 11 yo 2008/2020 (56.6%, Boogieman Import for The Longmorn Bros., bourbon barrel) We all know the Longmorn Brothers—they’re nice folks (guys, you owe me the aperitif subsequent time). Color: white wine. Nostril: good! Recent almonds, parsley, apples, mirabelles, quinces, and a contact of damp earth. Amusing hints of fruity shampoo (apple!). With water: recent rhubarb and small windfall apples. Mouth (neat): superb, recent and tense, on white, yellow, and inexperienced fruits, with more and more extra pepper. With water: the addition of water triggers an avalanche of fruit drops in numerous flavours, together with loads of lemon drops. End: lengthy, extra natural. Apple peelings and honey within the aftertaste. Feedback: pretty much as good as a pure 11-year-old Longmorn might be. SGP:651 – 87 factors. |
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What a distillery, although! Talking of the Longmorn Bros., it’s value realizing that twenty or thirty years in the past—and even earlier—whisky fans usually had the behavior of choosing their ‘favorite’ distillery, then gathering its bottles and artefacts and build up information that generally even the manufacturers themselves didn’t possess. That didn’t cease them from gathering different whiskies, in fact, however finally, in the event you needed dependable details about a specific distillery, you’d flip to those associates reasonably than a few of the distillers themselves, who already tended – however not all of them – to dish out a good quantity of ‘company speak’—not at all times essentially the most fascinating. That stated, there have been at all times exceptions certainly, and it additionally trusted whom you spoke to throughout the corporations. Usually talking, the decrease somebody ranked within the organisations, the extra dependable the data was—ha! However since then, everybody’s attended seminars on “what to say and what to not say,” and company speak now tends, at many locations, to trickle all the best way down—even to college students working as tour guides, gardeners, or cleansing employees. |
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Cautious, we’re about to return by way of the vintages… |
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Longmorn 1976/2013 (53.7%, Malts of Scotland, bourbon hogshead, Cask #MoS 13029, 143 bottles) I’m unsure why I hadn’t tasted this very engaging child prior to now. Color: gold. Nostril: the vanilla from the American oak is kind of distinguished at first, with crème brûlée, vanilla cream, and custard (we get it, S.), then hints of pinewood, cooked yellow fruits of all types, and at last some rum-like notes and unique fruits, particularly ripe bananas. With water: apple and banana juice, 50/50. Now there’s an thought! Simply add rum—or Longmorn. Mouth (neat): nice energy with reasonably distinguished woodiness, however it stays on pine buds, cherry sap, or maple syrup. Orchard fruits then make their method by way of with out a lot hassle, significantly all types of apples, as typical. With water: it handles these barely resinous and really, very faintly dusty notes reasonably with gusto. Thirty-six or thirty-seven years previous, thoughts you. End: medium size, with tea, gray pepper, wooden, and grassy juice. Feedback: maybe only a contact fragile resulting from age, however the DNA stays excellent. SGP:451 – 87 factors. |
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Longmorn 28 yo 1971/2000 (57.9%, Classic Hallmark of St. James’s, USA, sherry cask) A bottle with fairly the fame, it should be stated. The bottles from the defunct Hallmark of St. James’s have been recognized for that includes tasting notes by Wallace Milroy of Milroy’s of Soho, additionally one of many true legends of whisky writing. Color: copper amber. Nostril: oh! Roasted chestnuts, morels, truffles, clootie dumpling, butterscotch, fantastic espresso, wooden varnish, 100 totally different dried fruits, and essentially the most luxurious waxes. I feel it’s good—on par with the best Macallans of their golden period (and don’t speak to me about paxarette or brandy!). With water: pata negra ham and prunes in Armagnac. Mouth (neat): thunderbolts and lightning—what a marvel! A large arrival, nearly intrusive, like Schwarzenegger, adopted by a machine gun of flavours firing essentially the most great dried fruits, goodies, coffees, tobaccos, and woody spices (cinnamon, tea, mild smoke/toast…). Mainly, you’re lifeless. Properly, your style buds and olfactory bulb are virtually lifeless. With water: growth—absolute marvel. I’m accomplished for. End: … Feedback: … SGP:652 – 95 factors. |
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We should always in all probability cease right here, however that is Whiskyfun, and we’d nonetheless prefer to go all the best way again to the Sixties and revisit this child that I had tried a bit shortly again in 2008… |
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Longmorn 31 yo 1969/2001 (45.65%, Douglas Laing, Outdated Malt Cask, 210 bottles) Color: full gold. Nostril: we begin with more energizing fruits, jams, liqueurs, and syrups, however you’ll be able to instantly inform that is, but once more, a cask of interstellar high quality. Step by step, dried fruits take over—first dates (and what a magnificence they’re!), then figs, and at last raisins of all types. Add a contact of earth, tobacco, and a recent mint leaf, and you’ve got yet one more completely definitive nostril. You don’t discover this form of profile in latest releases anymore—and let’s not even point out these previous casks reconditioned with very lively wooden or wine, a reasonably regrettable pattern, frankly. With water: was Mozart a distiller too? Distinctive tiny meaty notes—dry hams, Chinese language sauces, refined fermentations… Mouth (neat): very, very barely extra fragile and fewer structured than the Classic Hallmark, however nonetheless sitting firmly within the higher flooring of malt whisky. Thoughts you, we’re virtually on the rooftop. Fruit sauce, Christmas cake, previous Madeira… With water: very, very, very faint dustiness, however the remainder is outstanding, with little dried figs and dried white mulberries standing tall. End: extra like an previous candy wine. Feedback: following the Classic Hallmark isn’t any small feat, however this one manages it. One other distinctive bottle which, furthermore, appears to have significantly benefited from a further 16 or 17 years within the bottle since we final tried it (fom one other bottle, naturally). SGP:651 – 93 factors. |
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I feel we gained’t revisit Longmorn for just a few months, however you by no means know. |
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(Mille mercis Andy and Michiel – and Edward) |
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I do know, we have had some Dufftown fairly not too long ago, however we needed to style this little Ukrainian model we have simply obtained. To pay tribute to it, we’ll then deliver out a kind of unimaginable 8-year-olds relationship again to… properly earlier than Gorbachev. |
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Dufftown 15 yo 2008/2024 (54.7%, Scyfion, armagnac cask end, 102 bottles) That is really maturation since this child from Ukraine spent 45 months in an armagnac cask, so greater than 36 months. Allow us to hope that very quickly, we will not must ship cannons and should as a substitute primarily export casks of armagnac, empty or not, to Ukraine. Slava Ukraini, and peace! Color: mild gold. Nostril: it’s the malt that speaks, and it’s a really pretty malt. Orange caramel, bergamots, roasted hazelnuts, maple syrup, salted butter caramels, apples… Some pleasant hints of anise within the background—maybe there was a drop of pastis within the armagnac. Simply joking. With water: extra rustic. Earth, foliage, baker’s yeast… Mouth (neat): a contact of peppered apple. One may ponder whether the equation malt whisky + armagnac = calvados may maintain a bit fact. Joking apart, that is good, fruity, beneficiant but recent… With water: it really works, the oranges cost in at full gallop and carry the day (what?). End: lengthy, on apples and plums, with maybe just a few raisins. Maybe… Feedback: all of this works very properly, with armagnac, very like cognac for that matter, embracing the malt with out ever disfiguring it. Bud’mo! SGP:551 – 87 factors. |
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Dufftown-Glenlivet 8 yo (80°proof, OB, early Sixties) With the 80°proof point out below the golden line—it does make all of the distinction, doesn’t it. In fact, in concept, this Dufftown must be brushing the celebrities, however in any case, take this as a tribute to our Ukrainian associates. Color: gold. Nostril: there’s some OBE, with that metallic edge (previous copper cash, pennies, classic instruments), however the improvement, on uncommon herbs and all types of oils and broths, is solely magnificent, particularly as previous natural and mint liqueurs come alongside to finish the image. These Dufftowns from Arthur Bell & Sons have been merely unimaginable. Mouth: oh my! It’s barely bitter, with loads of pine sap, for instance, however there’s additionally an unimaginable salinity and, above all, stewed fruits cooked in a copper cauldron with absolute majesty. Figs then deliver everybody into settlement, adopted by menthol and liquorice. Cough syrup. End: lengthy, on mild broths and chutneys. Magical. Feedback: the 80°proof (46% vol.) works wonders, even in any case these years. An ideal level of stability, these barely greater strengths maintain their floor a lot better than these at 40/43%, as we’ve usually noticed. In spite of everything, this bottle is over 60 years previous, maybe much more. Very spectacular. It leaves me speechless (you’ll in all probability say ‘thank goodness!’). SGP:561 – 91 factors. |
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We’re experiencing a slight delay with our third Longmorn session, however we are going to publish it in just a few days. Within the meantime… |
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Quirky Little Duos: lastly, an innovation on Whiskyfun! |
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WF’s Quirky Little Duos, at present Dalmunach vs. Imperial |
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The form of duet that’s reasonably loosely outlined—purely for enjoyable and a little bit of glory. At this time, as an illustration, we’ll be evaluating a Dalmunach, which changed the Imperial Distillery in Carron after its demolition by Pernod Ricard, with a malt nonetheless produced on the latter. Don’t fear, we’re not going to search for any so-called “terroir” impact linked to the distilleries’ places—particularly since our Imperial is of course fairly just a few years previous (the distillery closed in 1998 and was demolished in 2013), whereas the brand new Dalmunach solely started to make a reputation for itself in 2014. At the very least, that’s, I imagine, the official line—however I’ve already tasted some from 2013, ahem. |
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Dalmunach 7 yo 2016/2024 (58.4%, Dràm Mor, 1st fill Buffalo Hint barrel, cask #670, 254 bottles) Already a fantastic age and a bourbon cask, which ought to enable us to kind a clearer impression of Dalmunach’s malt. Color: white wine. Nostril: one of the vital floral malts I’ve sampled in latest months, with loads of wisteria and honeysuckle, adopted by easy dandelions, earlier than the profile shifts in direction of yellow fruits and recent brioche, all wrapped in vanilla custard. With water: cassata and custard in beneficiant proportions, with hints of buttery pears and chardonnay. Mouth (neat): {powerful} and wealthy in fruits and charred oak, with fudge all over the place and butterscotch piled on high, then IPA (very citrusy hops) and really recent honey. Fairly a little bit of cinnamon from the cask. With water: properly, this is excellent certainly, reasonably traditional total however vibrant and refreshing. Beautiful notes of verbena and genepy. End: lengthy, extra peppery, with zest, pink pepper, and custard. The aftertaste is extra peppery. Feedback: I feel the very early Dalmunachs have been too younger and considerably uninteresting, however already final yr we tasted a shocking Watt Whisky that was extremely spectacular. SGP:651 – 85 factors. |
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Imperial 33 yo 1990/2024 (52.7%, Gordon & MacPhail, The Recollection Sequence #3, refill American oak hogshead, cask #9825, 63 bottles) A really small launch in G&M’s collection honouring closed distilleries. Till pretty not too long ago, G&M have been nonetheless providing some pretty classic Imperials below their ‘distillery labels’. Beware, this might be an actual fruit bomb… Color: darkish gold. Nostril: it’s the time spent in cask that speaks first, with pine buds and wooden varnish swiftly adopted by recent almonds and kirsch. Then come important oils (thyme, mint, rosemary) and unique fruits, dominated by very ripe mangoes, nearly ‘petrol-like’ in the event you see what I imply. In any case, that is excellent. With water: as usually with G&M, the whisky turns into fairly opaque after water is added, indicating pretty minimal filtration. That stated, the profile modifications little, remaining magnificent, resinous, and fruity, with a barely oriental contact (loukoumi, mint tea, and pine nuts). Mouth (neat): an ideal mirror of the nostril, with distinguished woodiness paying homage to pine and bitter almonds, but very properly built-in with stewed fruits and mentholated and aniseed spices. Very curious to see what water does on the palate. With water: as soon as once more, not a lot change, although citrus notes and Sichuan pepper make an look alongside the remainder. End: pretty lengthy and even fruitier, whereas fruity notes usually fade within the end, I imply elsewhere. Blood oranges, hints of cedar and tobacco, then a return of pine buds. Feedback: an impressive dialogue with the cask. A disgrace there have been solely 63 bottles—if solely they’d been double-magnums! SGP:661 – 92 factors. |
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I promise you’ll be able to sense a form of kinship between the Dalmunach and the Imperial, particularly across the fruity notes. Don’t they are saying the apple by no means falls removed from the tree? (You’re exhausting, S.) |
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A bag of Longmorn, randomly, Half Dos We’re again. Wow that new 30/1994 ‘Rothes Glen’ yesterday! Goldrush apple (Pour de Bon) |
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Longmorn 15 yo (54.2%, Morisco Spirits, first fill bourbon, 2022) Color: white wine. Nostril: this might be fast—ultra-precise, inexperienced apple and damp chalk, with a contact of honeysuckle. It’s paying homage to a cool-vintage Sancerre (they’re getting uncommon) from Vacheron. With water: quinces and mirabelles seem, but it stays properly targeted. Mouth (neat): splendidly fruity and totally typical. Lemon, inexperienced apples, inexperienced pepper. One other superbly pure malt with sharper angles. With water: it turns barely softer, with apple juice, cinnamon and a touch of barley sugar. End: medium size, very clear, with that signature fruitiness and a barely extra peppery aftertaste. Feedback: stunning in its simplicity. SGP:551 – 86 factors. |
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Longmorn 13 yo 2011/2024 (58.2%, Girl of the Glen, PX end, cask #1721, 297 bottles) Properly, I’ve simply learnt that in pharmacy, PX can generally be shorthand for ‘prescription’, however can something be inferred from this within the realm of whisky? Color: deep gold. Nostril: complete butterscotch, walnut cake and cinnamon rolls. Good prescription. With water: few modifications, in all probability just a bit Bénédictine. Outdated bottles of Bénédictine might be completely excellent. A contact of good-quality black tea. Mouth (neat): certainly, thick PX however PX that works—candy however not overly so, with peppered raisins and loads of cloves. Even a touch of chilli. With water: softer, rounder, however Spanish orange liqueurs step in to maintain all of it in test. End: lengthy, on sultanas, orange marmalade and pepper. Feedback: about pretty much as good as a PX end on a younger Speysider might be. SGP:661 – 85 factors. |
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Longmorn 22 yo 1997/2020 (58.7%, The Single Malts of Scotland, hogshead, cask #163301, 240 bottles) My phrase, 2020 was already 5 years in the past. Color: white wine. Nostril: it’s exceptional how an excellent age—22 years is definitely an excellent age—brings complexity and begins to deconstruct major aromas. Right here we’re transferring in direction of layers of pastries, apple tarts, turnovers, strudel, with hints of vanilla pods and honeysuckle… Ultimately, we land on apple compote, the type all of us ate by the ton as youngsters, didn’t we? With water: recent barley emerges, which is amusing. It’s not the primary time this has occurred with these Longmorns. Mouth (neat): oh, citrus, pepper and mint! Although the alcohol does block issues only a bit. With water: and there it’s—a cavalcade of ripe orchard fruits, joined by lemon, grapefruit, aniseed and liquorice. End: pretty lengthy, with comparable notes. A really citrusy aftertaste. Feedback: for lovers of grapefruit, amongst whom I’m counting myself. SGP:651 – 87 factors. |
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Longmorn 22 yo 1992/2014 (51.4%, Signatory Classic, handpicked by The Whisky Trade, hogshead, cask #48488, 224 bottles) Consideration, we’re diving into this one with all sirens blaring! These 1992s from SigV have been absolute bombs. Color: deep gold. Nostril: pretty nostril—tobacco, roasted chestnuts, and so on.—however you’ll be able to already inform the magic will occur on the palate. With water: a slight basaltic fringe of the best type, adopted by hints of varnish, like in a really previous Sauternes turned mahogany. Mosses and mushrooms. Very good nostril. Mouth (neat): the purest expression of bitter orange, with an added amontillado-like word. Was this a sherry hogshead? But there are additionally touches of previous bourbon. By no means thoughts, not so way back no one cared about such particulars—it was both sherrywood or all the pieces else. Or maybe simply ‘American’ or ‘European’. With water: splendid. Let’s name it American amontillado (apologies, apologies, apologies). End: lengthy, leaning extra in direction of earthy tones and occasional. Espresso dregs—however what a espresso it was. Feedback: licking the sting of 91 factors, as we generally say. SGP:562 – 90 factors. |
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Longmorn 24 yo 1983/2007 (51.6%, Riegger’s Choice, hogshead, cask #51) I’m sorry, no picture discovered, besides maybe of a comparable bottle. 2007—these have been the great previous days when not everybody was obsessive about flooding the web with content material of questionable necessity. Color: deep gold. Nostril: pretty nostril of orange liqueur, sultanas and previous natural liqueurs. A surprising mixture of pine and mint on high of all of it—extremely invigorating—with hints of verbena and chartreuse. With water: oh, all these honeys, how stunning! Mouth: however that is so good! I can’t say if it was already this excellent again in 2007, however this sort of mix of fantastic liqueurs with figs and dates works wonders. With water: marvellous—extra mineral and waxier. This two jogs my memory of Clynelish—we’ve had some chic Clynelish 1983s, together with one from Samaroli. End: reasonably lengthy, easy, leaning in direction of roasted hazelnuts and previous Madeiras, with a splendidly natural aftertaste. Feedback: thanks, Roger—18 years later (higher late than by no means, I suppose). If anybody nonetheless has bottles of this little marvel, take excellent care of them! SGP:661 – 91 factors. |
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Longmorn-Glenlivet 1969/1991 (43%, Berry Bros. & Rudd Glasgow) Straight from Dunreath Avenue, Glasgow, however with the label ‘3, St. James’s St., London’. Already a 70cl bottle, but nonetheless bearing BB&R’s previous presentation, together with a well-made screw cap. Color: copper honey. Nostril: let’s not waste time—that is pure marvel, the type solely the Fifties or Sixties may produce. Astonishing honeys, ripe apples, cherries, pollen, winery peaches, incense, previous cognacs, then camphor and even just a few maritime touches. This whisky is the boss, not you. Mouth: sheer class. Mandarins, wild strawberries, previous yellow chartreuse, extra honeys, a drop of pine liqueur, fruit ganaches, and—dare I say it?—two or three drops of moutai. Go on, one, two, three, and-we-bow. End: unbelievably lengthy for a whisky at 43% from a bottle that’s already thirty-four years previous. However let’s not overlook this Longmorn was solely 21 or 22 years previous when bottled. There’s only a contact an excessive amount of leather-based within the aftertaste to achieve 93. There’s additionally a touch of salty/smoky broth—sudden, however maybe not that a lot. Feedback: what a magnificence, nonetheless bursting with power. SGP:661 – 92 factors. |
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There now we have it, one other session-breaker. It appears to be like like we’ll want to come back again a 3rd time with some extra Longmorns. |
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(Thanks, Geert, thanks Roger) |
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A fairly large bag of Longmorn, randomly |
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We by no means fairly understood why such an excellent malt as Longmorn remained form of tucked away within the house owners’ drawers. They’d certainly launched a gorgeous new 16-year-old after the previous 15, however its value shortly crushed the shopping for ambitions of many fans. To be truthful, it was the period of unbridled premiumisation, the place little or no really made sense. Anyway, let’s dive in at random at present—there’ll in all probability be fairly just a few reasonably previous bottlings with no tasting notes but right here on this awful web site. |
 Pinova apple (Pour de Bon) |
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Longmorn-Glenlivet 23 yo 1994/2018 (52.6%, Cadenhead’s, Rum cask, Guadeloupe, 222 bottles) A four-year ending in Guadeloupean rum casks. These aren’t the worst, it should be stated! Certainly, using rum casks has turn out to be reasonably commonplace, although one ought to keep in mind that the primary Springbank ‘rum cask’ releases from Cadenhead have been met with thunderous applause, notably the astonishing 18-year-old 1973/1991 (WF 93). Color: pale gold. Nostril: one instantly detects Longmorn’s very ‘orchard-like’ fruitiness, with excellent barely inexperienced fruits, apples, plums, then hints of white beer and jasmine, earlier than extra unique fruits—seemingly from the rum—reminiscent of lychees. With water: notes of orange zest and wax. Mouth (neat): taut as a bowstring, with little rum affect however as a substitute inexperienced pepper, cider apples and recent herbs, underpinned by a stunning acidity. With water: the sugarcane facet emerges, together with pineapple and banana liqueur, turning into extra pronounced. Guava juice follows, together with much more herbs. End: lengthy, fruit peelings and bitters. Feedback: the 2 spirits flirted with one another all through. SGP:561 – 85 factors. |
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Longmorn 17 yo 1996/2014 (46%, Signatory Classic, Un-Chillfiltered Assortment for The Whisky Truthful Limburg, 1st fill sherry, cask #72322, 748 bottles) Properly, we’re not precisely early to this one. Color: amber. Nostril: everyone knows that Longmorn and an enormous, wealthy sherry cask go hand in hand, and that’s definitely the case right here, with raisins, millionaire shortbread and some tiny fragments of flint… and truffle. Mouth: chocolate and tobacco over almonds and bitter oranges, then progressively extra espresso and really darkish tea. End: a lot the identical, with wonderful size. Feedback: old-school sherry, nearly a sherry monster, barely rustic. All in all, a captivating nation malt. SGP:451 – 85 factors. |
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Longmorn 2008/2022 (46%, Gordon & MacPhail, Distillery Labels)  There have already been so many splendid Longmorns from G&M! In truth, they’re in all probability those who popularised this distillery, if I’m not mistaken. Color: gold. Nostril: pure orchard-style Longmorn, apple juice, stewed apples, overripe apples… You get the concept. A contact of acacia honey and two or three sultanas within the background. To this point, it does the job completely, supplied one enjoys apples. Mouth: a bit stranger, barely prickly and even fizzy, then nearly soapy. An unexpectedly gin-and-tonic-like facet emerges. Que pasa? It’s definitely not a pattern subject. End: of medium size, a bit calmer, with apples returning alongside pears, and a touch of fudge within the aftertaste. Phew. Feedback: I’m unsure I absolutely grasped this one. A placeholder rating—the nostril is gorgeous! SGP:561 – 80 factors. |
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Longmorn 21 yo 1992/2014 (49.7%, The Single Malts of Scotland, sherry hogshead, cask #110979, 293 bottles) Color: full gold. Nostril: near the SigV, with distinguished sherry, Mars bar, pipe tobacco, tarte Tatin (sure, apples once more!) and quince paste. Mouth: wonderful sherry, huge, barely peppery, that includes walnut caramel tart, pecans, tobacco, darkish chocolate and a contact of ginger… End: lengthy, wealthy but superbly balanced, with citrus including a way of freshness. A touch of previous amontillado. Feedback: that is very, superb—completely constructed, extremely traditional, and with nothing to fault. SGP:651 – 87 factors. |
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Longmorn 11 yo 2011/2022 (52.4%, Michiel Wigman, Inspiring Buddies, 208 bottles)  These labels depict Michiel’s associates and have been illustrated by Hans Dillesse, whose personal portrait is featured right here. In essence, it’s a self-portrait, nearly on par with these of his compatriots Van Gogh or Rembrandt. Certainly! Color: white wine. Nostril: sure, right here it’s, the distillate in its purest kind, with marvellous backyard fruits—ripe apples as soon as once more, together with mirabelles, quinces, pears, pink grapefruits and a stunning contact of flint. With water: a really mild waxy word à la Clynelish and hints of unripe bananas. Mouth (neat): honey and blood oranges, with a contact of pink pepper. Good weight. With water: nearly like pure barley syrup. End: medium size, completely balanced, ideally fruity, by no means vulgar—or let’s say ‘an excessive amount of’. Feedback: pure Longmorn, by and for Longmorn aficionados. Exceptionally excessive stage for an 11-year-old. SGP:651 – 89 factors. |
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Longmorn 30 yo 1994/2024 (55.5%, LMDW Rothes Glen, Artist #14, refill American hogshead, cask #50086, 141 bottles) ‘Rothes Glen’ is the title of the one non-public home ever constructed by Charles Doig—you’ll be able to’t get geekier than that, are you able to? Bravo to La Maison du Whisky. As typical, the label may be very a lot to my style. Color: gold. Nostril: it’s easy—take the 2011 we’ve simply tasted and add 20 years of refractions and little fragrant twists. If you happen to see what I imply. Leathers, flowers, tobaccos, waxes, small berries, valuable woods, damp earth… With water: thuja wooden, mint tea and hints of sea breezes. It looks like Essaouira—simply add some Gnawa music and also you’re there. Mouth (neat): firmer than anticipated, extra resinous however with excellent softness and complexity. Snuff tobacco, spruce bud liqueur, a contact of sudden hoisin sauce, then luggage of figs from numerous origins. With water: all of the fruits of the backyard, plus jams and syrups you possibly can make from them. It’s extra ‘Longmorn’ than Longmorn itself. End: resinous notes return, Vosges fir sweets, spruce honeydew, then almonds and orange peels. Feedback: it sounds nearly like a Michelin *** restaurant menu. SGP:661 – 92 factors. |
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No query of making an attempt to high this chic 30-year-old—we’ll decide up once more tomorrow or later. Thanks on your understanding. |
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A phrase of warning Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are accomplished from the perspective of a malt whisky fanatic who, what’s extra, is aboslutely not an skilled in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or some other spirits. Thanks – and peace! |
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First rum session of the yr, |
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Goodness, that’s 100 and forty-five years aside. I can’t consider some other non-artistic product that takes you on such a journey by way of time. In fact, one may argue that fantastic spirits are a type of artwork as properly, however if you go to the distilleries, you shortly realise that they’re all factories—whether or not small or massive. So, ultimately, lengthy dwell factories! |
 Early label for Outdated Medford Rum (Medford Historic Society & Museum) |
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Romero ‘Amber Rum’ (40%, OB, Canada, sherry cask end, +/-2024)  Oops! I believed this was a kind of Romero & Sons from Ecuador, whose reasonably charming expressions we’ve sampled earlier than. These Romero, hailing from Alberta, reasonably conjure pictures of glacial waters (properly there’s snow on the best Ecuadorian mountains as properly), ex-Woodford Reserve barrels, and oloroso casks shipped straight from Jerez, though we discovered no particulars concerning the sourcing of the molasses or the kinds of stills used. Properly then, let’s style this child… Color: mild gold. Nostril: very, very mild, with a contact of orange, a touch of honey, and the faintest whiff of tar. I’d say it leans barely Cuban in type. Mouth: a bit boozy, not a lot character, although not disagreeable. I reckon it wants a little bit of ice to tone down the alcoholic edge. However, it doesn’t appear overly doctored. The sherry affect stays discreet. End: very brief, with a splash of cane juice adopted by a natural word. Feedback: it’s pretty respectable. Properly then, Canadian rum! SGP:340 – 70 factors. |
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Nicaragua 19 yo 2004/2024 (60%, Rum Sponge, for LMDW Foundations, refill barrel, 230 bottles) Ex-pot nonetheless, most definitely from the makers of Flor de Cana. 3 years on location, then some ‘early touchdown’ within the UK (I suppose it was not the Netherlands). Color: wealthy gold. Nostril: it begins with notes of hairspray and pear, considerably amylaceous, adopted by buttercream, orgeat, and really recent white nougat. At 60%, it’s exceedingly comfortable and thus fairly harmful. With water: praline, hazelnut cream, almond croissant, then a contact of previous cedarwood (Chinese language temple) and incense, with refined hints of dried fruits. Mouth (neat): comparable impression of varnish, then pears and pineapples, adopted by citrus fruits. It’s a bit sharper than on the nostril however stays a really easy rum, laden with almond milk. With water: orange liqueur and white peach purée (Bellini-ready). Critically, in the event you don’t have recent peaches handy, you possibly can pour a splash of this Nicaraguan into your champagne as a substitute. Do word, you’ll be elevating reasonably than reducing the alcohol stage (de nada, glad to assist). End: medium in size, very comfortable and chic. A touch of avocado, coconut, and papaya juice. Feedback: the pot-still character isn’t significantly evident, however all this delicacy is absolutely fairly charming. Undoubtedly one of many most interesting Nicaraguans, with an infinitely mild softness. SGP:540 – 87 factors. |
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Properly, it’s now or by no means to style this very previous, historic rum. Now we have a small ‘semi-official’ bottle produced by Wealth Options two or three years in the past to mark their fifteenth anniversary. So let’s not wait, as a result of there isn’t any method we’re tasting this historical glory after some funky, high-energy Jamaicans! |
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Positive Outdated Medford Rum 1876 (M.E. Bellows’ & Son, USA, 15 Years of Wealth Options) From the Daniel Lawrence Distillery in Medford, New England, closed in 1905. It seems, nevertheless, that the ‘Outdated Medford Rum’ model continued for use, although maybe solely from shares of the previous distillery, and it nonetheless is at present, now produced in Boston, though the title is simply ‘ Medrum Rum’ today. This model was bought by wine and spirits importers and retailers M.E. Bellows, 50 Broad St. in New York, however we couldn’t discover any on-line photographs of this bottle with its label. We had beforehand sampled an admirable ‘Scotch Whiskey’ from Bellows (see 1 February 2024). Color: espresso. Nostril: it’s pretty, delicate, and much better than I had feared, not weak in any respect, leaning as a substitute in direction of plum juice with a touch of tar and molasses, together with refined notes of beef broth. Wonderful presence and fragrant depth, with not the slightest hint of cardboard or mustiness on the nostril. On this respect, it’s fairly spectacular, nearly paying homage to a fantastic previous Navy mix from earlier than WWII. Mouth: it’s candy and extremely ‘organized’, seemingly with fairly just a few components, maybe molasses honey, which makes it very sugary but nonetheless gives some pleasant notes of brown sugar and cane sugar, far faraway from these closely doctored modern ‘rums’ that reek of vanillin and pineapple liqueur from fifty paces. You realize what I imply. It continues with hints of espresso liqueur earlier than fading gently. End: reasonably brief however clear, with a faint woody bitterness and real honey lingering within the aftertaste, in very refined touches. Feedback: I believe the sugar preserved this charming rum, considerably like a really previous port, Madeira, or candy sherry, to which it finally bears some resemblance. Simply suppose—1876! We would even have loved this alongside very previous cognacs, however alas, it’s too late. Mea culpa, we’re undoubtedly too rational. SGP:720 – 85 factors (a partly symbolic rating). |
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Windfall 3 yo 2021/2024 (52%, OB, Haiti, 1,900 bottles) Find it irresistible that they might add that it’s ‘handmade’ and ‘robotic free’. Ex-1,500l pot nonetheless fitted with a water tub (we use roughly the identical expertise after we distill at WF HQ, however ours is simply a 100l). Pure cane honey. Matured in ex-bourbon and rum casks. Color: full gold. Nostril: this, I get pleasure from, recent beets, celeriac and carrots, plus a double-magnum of cane juice and a handful of small wild strawberries. Very elegant nostril, comfortable and complicated. With water: orange-flavoured marzipan, with flying colors, plus a small oliveness which will stem from some cask’s earlier contents. Tiny contact of paprika and nutmeg, fairly distinctive. Mouth (neat): very comfortable at first, then liquorice and lime that simply continue to grow. The extremely distinctive rooty notes stay, together with a sure acidity, even a barely vinegary contact that I fairly like, including pep. With water: have been there ex-Caroni casks? It feels prefer it now. As with Hampden or Ardbeg, there’s an actual homeopathic impact in any mix that features any drops of them (in-cask mix or not), as even the tiniest molecule leaves its mark. End: medium in size, with orange marzipan mingling with hints of olives, brine, and tar. Feedback: a stunning 3-year-old. And moreover, we should help Haiti, past its incredible clairins. SGP:542 – 86 factors. |
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Monymusk 12 yo 2010/2023 ‘MMW’ (66.9%, The Whisky Blues, Jamaica, barrel, cask #433029, 250 bottles) Good heavens, I hadn’t seen the alcohol power! MMW is the mark for Wedderburn from Monymusk, that means this can be a rum with a really excessive ester content material, 200-300 gr/hlpa, although Monymusk does produce even greater ranges. Color: gold. Nostril: typical, varnish, glue, acetone, and white vinegar, over extraordinarily ripe bananas. With water: notes of damp cement, caraway, tarragon, capers, and salmiak, together with a touch of toasted bread. Mouth (neat): oily, ultra-powerful, but very, very stunning citrus fruits emerge amidst all of the varnish. Shortly now… With water: good, banana and mango liqueurs, plus loads of varnish and liquorice. The stability, in actual fact, is spot on. End: lengthy, fruity, but nonetheless unmistakably ‘high-ester’, with out veering into burnt tyre territory. Feedback: a slight Trinidadian contact on this very, very fantastic Jamaican, maybe. Fruity esters turned as much as eleven. SGP:652 – 88 factors. |
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Jamaica 5 yo 2017/2023 ‘Single Cask’ (58.32%, Rum Nation, New Vibrations, 642 bottles)  Single-domaine pot nonetheless rum and 5 years in a PX cask on our continent. Color: golden amber. Nostril: a extra traditional Jamaican profile, rounder and softer, with seeded bread and, as soon as once more, loads of marzipan, together with cherry liqueur and maybe even a drop of maraschino. Additionally some curious but nice smoky notes, in addition to a handful of dried muscat grapes. With water: a lot the identical. Mouth (neat): really a comfortable Jamaican, nearly candy, however the rum has sufficient physique to help this sweetness. In brief, a contact of ‘cooking’—or reasonably patisserie right here however that’s high-quality patisserie. Positive banana liqueur (in contrast to the dreadful stuff usually present in supermarkets). With water: it’s candy, it’s good, and it stays simply throughout the limits. End: lengthy, now drier. Hints of grape pips. Feedback: I actually do like this one, although I wouldn’t rule out having fun with it with two ice cubes. The much less candy common Jamaica 5 yo ‘Single Domaine Rum’ from 2023 was great in my ebook (WF 89). SGP:652 – 84 factors. |
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I’ve obtained an thought—how about we end with two from 1998? |
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Lengthy Pond 23 yo 1998/2022 (52.7%, The Colors of Rum, Jamaica, refill cask, N°12, cask #1, 163 bottles) Full continental ageing. A foolish query—does this description think about the UK a part of the continent, or did the rum essentially age within the Netherlands? Anyway, you understand what I imply. Color: gold. Nostril: very a lot on recent tar, heat candle wax, then tinned sardines and pickled anchovies. Splendid notes of citrus liqueurs and late-harvest Riesling (nearly the identical factor—no, I exaggerate). With water: previous ship ropes and a slight Islay contact, adopted by loads of unique fruits, all completely ripe. Mouth (neat): as soon as once more, a reasonably good stability of varnish and fruits, not far faraway from the Monymusk. Oysters, olives, bananas, peaches, paraffin, tar, and nail varnish (sure, nail varnish). With water: excellent rum, with hints of salinity rising. End: reasonably lengthy and now far more saline and liquorice-led. Curious touches of chervil, verbena, and honey proper on the finish. Feedback: merely wonderful, as anticipated. SGP:652 – 89 factors. |
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Caroni 25 yo 1998/2024 (59.6%, Bedford Park, North Coast Distillers, cask #2159, 208 bottles) Rum chosen by the distillers of the brand new North Level Distillery in Forss close to Thurso, West Caithness. They’ve simply begun producing Dalclagie malt however are already providing gin and even rum, together with a variety of impartial whisky and rum bottlings below the ‘Bedford Park’ label. Color: amber. Nostril: this looks like ‘heavy to semi-heavy’ Caroni, with loads of new tyres and engine oil, in addition to a stunning earthy facet, plus black truffles and inexperienced olives. We’re completely glad up to now. With water: not a lot change, besides that it leans much more in direction of coal tar. Mouth (neat): nearly like ingesting a mixture of tar, lime juice, salted liquorice paste, and really peppery brine. Deliciously brutal. With water: seawater, extra tar, oysters, and black olives. End: very lengthy, following the identical profile. Peppery lemon within the aftertaste with a touch of chilli. Feedback: it’s stated to be ex-column Caroni, however I need to say it feels remarkably ‘pot nonetheless’. You’d wish to sip this on the terrace of a small bistro overlooking an industrial harbour, watching the ships come and go—with just a few olives on the desk, naturally. Properly, you get the concept. SGP:463 – 90 factors. |
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Between this Caroni and the Outdated Medford, it was fairly the distinction at present! Wishing you a contented Sunday. |
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Concerning temperatures | |
| That is necessary for sure rums—at totally different temperatures, we understand tastes in another way, reminiscent of sweetness. For instance, a candy rum will style even sweeter if consumed at room temperature, as we regularly do. Nevertheless, it’s necessary to take into account that these candy rums are designed to be served over ice or in cocktails which can be served chilled—circumstances below which they are going to style much less candy, and even a lot much less candy. Distillers and blenders naturally take these elements into consideration when growing their recipes. Typically, it’s stated that candy and salty flavours are most noticeable at room temperature, whereas bitter and bitter/acid flavours have a tendency to face out extra when served chilly or chilled. |
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Just a few wee Linkwood Linkwood is a flexible malt that loves sherry however can also be able to embracing essentially the most uncommon woods and wines. Relaxation assured, nevertheless, at present we gained’t be coping with any mizunara. Would not mizunara be the vocoder of spirits? |
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Linkwood-Glenlivet 10 yo 2013/2024 (46%, Cadenhead, Unique Assortment, oloroso sherry casks) Color: amber. Nostril: pretty caramel, praline, toffee and raisin rolls. Chocolate and Mars bars which may solely want a fast deep-fry. Properly, you get the concept. Beautiful nostril, pretty sherry, easy-going and uncomplicated. Mouth: traditional Jaffa desserts, caramel-filled chocolate (sure, Mars bar once more), Nescafé and Ovaltine. The 46% works very properly. End: good size, caramel and occasional, then roasted peanuts. Maple syrup and marmalade lingering within the aftertaste. Feedback: pretty easy however superb, very properly made, considerably old style. Everyone knows Linkwood has cherished sherry since time immemorial. SGP:551 – 85 factors. |
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Linkwood 15 yo 2008/2023 (45%, Samaroli, refill bourbon hogshead, cask #306029, 384 bottles) Color: pale gold. Nostril: hey, good! That is not the Samaroli of previous (the model was bought fairly just a few years in the past) however this can be a very pretty nostril, with tarte Tatin, pistachio halva and panettone. To be sincere, it feels far more like refill sherry than refill bourbon, however let’s not break up hairs—it’s a stunning nostril certainly. Recent raisin rolls. Mouth: sure, superb, within the type of Cadenhead, just a bit more energizing and extra targeted on orchard fruits. In fact, that depends upon the bushes in your orchard. Caramel and honey-coated apples, plus just a few inexperienced spices, particularly pepper. End: pretty lengthy, with toffee, ginger and lemon zest. Some woody spices within the aftertaste, ginseng, turmeric… Feedback: actually superb. SGP:551 – 85 factors. |
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Linkwood 12 yo 2012/2024 (48%, Signatory Classic for LMDW Artist Collective 7.0, first fill bourbon barrel, 1776 bottles) A vatting of six casks. One doesn’t count on this to go unsuitable. Color: white wine. Nostril: wow, right here come the recent fruits in full freedom, from mango to apple, passing by way of recent croissants and banana cream. Jellybeans and infants. Arduous to withstand all this—as they are saying, any resistance is futile. Mouth: simply give in, that is recent fruit on recent herbs with a contact of clay and chalk. A champagne-like character, actually. End: pretty lengthy, with yellow citrus fruits taking cost. Citron and pomelos. Feedback: it’s recent, it’s wonderful, it goes down effortlessly. SGP:651 – 86 factors. |
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Linkwood 15 yo 2022/2024 (54.3%, Single Malt Desires, for Bergen Whisky Social Membership, 1st fill oloroso octave end, 65 bottles) There’s no actual distinction between Bergen in Norway and Havana in Cuba, since each have their Social Golf equipment, you see. That stated, the final time I used to be on the one in Havana, they weren’t serving Linkwood—until somebody had invented a Linkwood Daiquiri. And why not! Color: deep gold. Nostril: a typical well-toasted octave, with caramel and turrón, then barely mentholated tobacco. Just a few wafts of geranium, bay leaves, after which leather-based. With water: it turns into more and more meaty. Mole sauce, Maggi, biltong, teriyaki, brown sauce… Mouth (neat): it really works. Loads of thyme and occasional, lovage, glutamate, chewing tobacco, liquorice wooden, mustard… Fairly a concoction—we wouldn’t name it ‘typical’. With water: we’re venturing into reasonably unfamiliar territories so far as Scotch goes. Heavy pinewood, tobacco, juniper, …? … ? … ? End: lengthy, fatty, bitter and chocolatey, resinous… Lingering notes of bitter oranges and walnut wine. Feedback: after the palate I actually don’t know learn how to rating this sort of extremely uncommon however very amusing creation. Let’s simply give it some thought—these octaves! SGP:371 – (pending) factors. |
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WF’s Little Duos, two strong, well-aged Allt-A-Bhainne to ease the stress |
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We at all times love these little names, which we get pleasure from tasting as usually as attainable. The title of this pretty trendy distillery (1975) continues to seem in all types of various spellings (Allt-A-Bhainne, Allt-á-Bhainne, Allt A Bhainne, Allt A’Bhainne, and so forth). |
 (Geograph.co.uk) |
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And let’s word that even the house owners themselves, Chivas Bros./Pernod-Ricard, generally write it as Allt’A Bhainne (of their Distillery Reserve Assortment), generally as Allt-A-Bhainne (the latest OB ‘The Sweetly Peated Single Malt’ packaged like a… bourbon), and even as Allt a’ Bhainne (within the Misplaced in Time collection for TWE). In brief, there are nearly as many spellings as there are expressions available on the market. However let’s not dwell on that—it’s the whisky that issues… |
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Allt-a-Bhainne 26 yo 1997/2024 (52.1%, The Whisky Blues for MUJO Liquor Retailer 1st Anniversary, Taiwan, ex-Williamson refill barrel, 236 bottles) The extremely surreal label is amusing and engaging. Let’s see whether or not the cask’s earlier occupant makes its presence felt or not… Color: pale gold. Nostril: that is typical ‘filler’ of top quality in my opinion, brimming with inexperienced apples and pears, plums, damp chalk, paraffin, and sourdough. Good in one thing like Chivas 25 years previous (simply for instance) and equally good because it stands, au naturel. Anticipated citrus notes emerge later. With water: not significantly peaty, solely faintly medicinal, although at this stage that’s hardly the unique area of Laphroaig. Bandages be a part of the chalk. Mouth (neat): very stunning, considerably within the vein of previous Strathisla 100 proof (pale vattings). Very taut, peppery, nearly a contact aggressive but in a chic method. Bushels of cider apples and a wee glass of fruity eau-de-vie (tutti frutti, proper). With water: the pepper grows even stronger. Lemon zest, then outright hints of chilli and salt. End: lengthy, a bit ‘Orkney’ if you understand what I imply. Lemon pepper and a contact of paraffin dominate this barely austere aftertaste. Feedback: the previous occupant of the cask performs a little bit of hide-and-seek with the attentive taster. Simply as amusing because the label. Wonderful malt. SGP:462 – 87 factors. |
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Allt a Bhainne 31 yo 1992/2024 (48%, The Whisky Cask Firm, PX Sherry, 250 bottles) Allt-A-Bhainne, very like its companion Braeval, appears very snug with sherry, based mostly on our modest experiences. Color: bronzeish gold. Nostril: previous walnuts and an vintage wine cellar, just a few mushrooms, then it takes an amusing U-turn in direction of all types of citrus, significantly pink grapefruit, with hints of coconut that really feel reasonably ‘white oak’. The entire ensemble is considerably paying homage to the best white wines from the Basque Nation, notably the Irouléguy, a marvellous little appellation that’s comparatively unknown (although some would say that’s for the most effective – the egocentric ones!). Mouth: we discover that very same peppery and barely combative edge as within the earlier dram, solely with a well-integrated layer of sherry. I actually get pleasure from each kinds. Just a few notes of bitter walnut liqueur, considerably within the type of Italian nocino however much less candy. End: lengthy, with all the pieces melding superbly into these pleasant bitters. Coriander seeds and Seville oranges linger within the aftertaste. Feedback: a pleasantly bitter PX, which we’re very keen on as properly. SGP:461 – 87 factors. |
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A small line-up of Clynelish, vertically organized, to have fun the New 12 months |
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With out ‘Secret Highlands’ which may—or won’t—be Clynelish. We merely could not begin the yr with no few Clynelish, you see, and with out asking ourselves a query that is elementary for us however in all probability of little curiosity to the remainder of the world: “Does Brora’s relaunch forged a little bit of a shadow over Clynelish?” Take into account yourselves warned. |
 A bit of glimpse of paradise—Italy, round 2004 (WF Archive) |
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Clynelish 10 yo 2011/2021 (60.2%, Timeless & Tasty, Whiskies & Extra, barrel, cask #800313, 234 bottles) A bottling from Hong Kong. Color: straw. Nostril: it opens with crushed slate and apple compote earlier than shifting in direction of grist and husks, evoking a way of wandering by way of the distillery itself. With water: damp chalk, bandages, camphor, embrocations and plasticine—the hallmark has arrived. Mouth (neat): these vintages lean closely in direction of fruit, however right here it’s extra about sharp apple and lemon with barely uncommon medicinal notes. Nevertheless, at this power, it’s a contact early to attract agency conclusions. With water: pure Clynelish, simply calmly mentholated and mildly aniseed. End: lengthy, with citrus firmly taking cost. Feedback: 1. purchase by the case, 2. lay down for 30 years. Deep affection for this profile. SGP:562 – 88 factors. |
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Clynelish 13 yo 2010/2024 (56.6%, The Single Malts of Scotland Reserve Casks, Elixir Distillers for LMDW, bourbon barrel, cask #800188, 207 bottles) Color: white wine. Nostril: it opens with recent cement and damp chalk, adopted by a touch of the seaside not removed from the distillery and ending with inexperienced apples and a form of fruity earthiness. Little or no wax at this stage. With water: austere, leaning in direction of minimize grass and much more cement, although the apples have ripened. Mouth (neat): very Clynelish this time, beginning with paraffin, then rising salinity and touches of varnish and mustard, more and more evoking the West Coast—Ben N. type—which is definitely no dangerous factor. With water: traditional Clynelish! A contact of beer, candle wax, mandarin, inexperienced pepper and a notably oily texture. End: lengthy and oily, with these pretty mandarins and a touch of jasmine tea. Feedback: a real dialog in your glass. Fascinating and wonderful. Ultimately, it turns into very near the 2011, which is able to shock nobody. SGP:562 – 88 factors. |
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Let’s soar ahead greater than 15 years, however we’re again round Hong Kong… |
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Clynelish 27 yo 1997/2024 (47.2%, The Antelope Macau, fifth Anniversary, refill hogshead) Very fantastic vintages once they’re not too influenced by sherry—let’s see what these Aristocats on the label have to supply. Color: deep gold. Nostril: few issues can rival the candied citrons present in these Clynelish. Neither the nuts (sherry, naturally), nor the beeswax, nor the recent fougasse. One bows in reverence… Mouth: what stability! An ideal instance of a sherry (I believe it’s refill sherry) that provides complexity with out overshadowing the distillate within the slightest. And what a distillate! Orange zest, pollen, little violet-flavoured sweets, hints of earth, loads of wax in fact, a tiny drop of fantastic Sauternes, and ever-present citrus, particularly easy squeezed orange. I’m completely smitten with this one. End: lengthy and extra earthy, with touches of truffles and morels, together with these marvellous oranges peeled in honey and olive oil that at all times win common approval. Black pepper lingers within the aftertaste. Feedback: the age is ideal. Hope we’ll maintain discovering these below the Distillery’s banner. SGP:651 – 90 factors. |
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Clynelish 30 yo 1993/2023 (42.1%, Halcyon Spirit, casks #11082 + 11104, 154 bottles) An intriguing vatting, maybe accomplished to ‘enhance’ a cask that had dropped a bit too low in ABV. It’s at all times fascinating and infrequently chic when it comes to outcomes. Didn’t Springbank usually do that again within the day? Color: pale gold. Nostril: it’s exceptional—although maybe not stunning—how a lot this leans in direction of the early Seventies type, with these ripe previous apples and, above all, all the pieces that comes from a beehive, beginning with beeswax but additionally pollen, pinewood, honey and propolis. Within the background, there’s recent paint and putty. Watch your fingers (S.!) Mouth: the oak is barely extra current, with black tea and crushed pepper, however the wax and previous apples quickly reclaim management, accompanied by a contact of turpentine and menthol. The propolis is much more pronounced than on the nostril. End: medium size, leaning extra in direction of pine needles and, once more, propolis. A touch of juniper. Feedback: it’s magnificent and at no level do you would like for extra watts. It reasonably calls to thoughts a really previous pianist who nonetheless masters Chopin in addition to ever—if not higher. SGP:651 – 91 factors. |
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We’re ending with this gem, one of many uncommon 98/100 on WF, however from a unique bottle than those we’ve already tasted. Any excuse to revisit these items, actually… (It was really a Fb submit that gave me the concept, I swear!) |
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Clynelish 24 yo (49.4%, Cadenhead, Sestante, +/-1989) We’ve by no means been capable of affirm whether or not this bottle was distilled in 1965 or 1966 (so pre-Brora Brora in any case). That issues as a result of it was in 1965 that Clynelish ceased utilizing its personal ground malting. Nevertheless, there’s no proof that the 1965 Cadenhead’s have been nonetheless ‘ground malted’, and we don’t know exactly which month in 1965 the distillery switched to sourced malt (in all probability from Ord). I ought to add that M. Mainardi of Sestante doesn’t appear to recall this specific bottle, but when that is ‘pretend’ Outdated Clynelish, then the forgers have been absolute geniuses—bravo and thanks to them! Color: amber. Nostril: good heavens! We begin off in a luxurious shoe store, with luxurious leathers and polishes, then transfer to a storage specialising in classic automobiles (uncommon previous instruments, engine oils, petrol, tyres), adopted by an artist’s workshop (linseed oil, paint, canvases, turpentine, varnish) and end up at a fruit service provider’s stall brimming with all types of citrus. Mouth: we linger on the fruit service provider’s, then wander over to the tea vendor, and at last step into an previous church the place the pews have simply been waxed and the candles changed (these aromas translate superbly onto the palate). Past that, we’ll let your creativeness take over. End: an totally chic finale, smoky, immensely advanced and astonishingly lengthy, with refined coffees and broths on the very finish. Truffle broth, Bocuse-style. Feedback: amusingly, I’ve simply realised we tasted this Outdated Clynelish earlier than—from one other bottle—whereas celebrating New 12 months 2015. In fact, we gained’t revise our ultimate rating regardless of the ten-year hole. SGP:563 – 98 factors. |
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Clynelish is significant for our survival. Dinosaurs did not have Clynelish and look what occurred to them! (Could not we cease the foolish jokes in 2025, S.?) Talking of jokes, right here’s what a whisky skilled—whom we gained’t title out of Christian charity—wrote about Clynelish again within the Nineteen Nineties: |
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Certainly, since everybody appears to be after lists today, here is a PDF file (within the previous Malt-Maniacs type) that includes all of the spirits we have rated 92 factors or above in 2024: Naturally, we could not resist including just a few scattered statistics and feedback under: |
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The Scores: |
| 133 tastings obtained a rating of 92 factors or greater from Serge or Angus between 1 January and 31 December 2024, out of roughly 1,800 opinions written through the yr. |
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| Our Two Tasters: |
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| 4 Classes: |
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| Latest Bottles vs. Outdated Bottles: |
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| The Prime Whisky Distilleries: |
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Reasonably important feedback: |
| This listing depends upon what comes our method or what we actively search out It’s not a exact reflection of the market or the general high quality of spirits, regardless that we make a degree, particularly with whiskies and even rums, of tasting a little bit of all the pieces. That stated, it’s nonetheless the highest distilleries that have a tendency to seem on this listing. |
| Costly Whiskies Dominate the Prime of the Record The upper finish of the whisky listing is usually occupied by whiskies which can be presently very costly—generally even outrageously so. At the very least we will say that these bottles are genuinely uncommon, and we settle for that rarity usually instructions a excessive value. Relaxation assured, nevertheless, that very costly whiskies whose rarity is merely a façade, whereas their high quality stays common or simply barely above, won’t ever make it into this listing. Let’s see what the upcoming pattern of “de-premiumisation” will deliver. |
| Wonderful Whiskies Scoring 88–91 Factors Understand that many whiskies scoring 88–91 factors, which are sometimes fabulous and far more inexpensive—generally round €50—aren’t, de facto, included on this listing. |
| Older Bottlings Proceed to Impress After 22 years of Whiskyfun, we’re nonetheless coming throughout older bottlings that we’ve by no means tasted earlier than and that completely blow us away. We couldn’t be happier about that! |
| Notable Traits Amongst Distilleries Many large names solely seem on this listing due to older bottlings (e.g., Ardbeg, Macallan, Bowmore, Laphroaig, Glen Grant). We hope to see this stability shift sooner or later. Some distilleries preserve their rankings by way of a mix of latest and older releases, reminiscent of Highland Park, Bunnahabhain, Lagavulin, and Springbank—kudos to them! |
| Rising Stars New “blue chip” distilleries are rising, like Benromach and Ben Nevis, which appear to have made important progress prior to now few a long time. |
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Closed Distilleries Maintain Their Standing |
| The Absence of Clynelish Clynelish is notably absent, largely as a result of lack of latest releases below the unique distillery’s title—an unlucky scenario. Additionally it is true that we had already tasted nearly all the older bottlings earlier than 2024. |
| New Distilleries Present Promise New Scottish and Irish distilleries aren’t fairly at this stage but, however that’s to be anticipated. We’ll seemingly see them make their mark throughout the subsequent ten years (e.g., Ardnahoe, Ardnamurchan, Isle of Harris, and others). |
| Whiskies from Newer Areas Whiskies from newer whisky-producing nations are getting nearer to inclusion. Hellyers Highway is already on the listing, and we anticipate others will comply with within the coming years—reminiscent of Millstone, Smögen, Cotswolds, hopefully Waterford, in addition to some smaller American, Nordic, French, and German distilleries. I am positive I am lacking different nations. |
| Japanese Whiskies Japan is well-represented with Yoichi and Chichibu. We’re anticipating others, like Shizuoka, to affix quickly. Different large names, reminiscent of Yamazaki and Miyagikyo, stay very shut. |
| Excellent Rums A number of rums have impressed us, significantly Enmores and a few TDL from Trinidad. Different distilleries are producing huge numbers of various chic rums (scoring 89–91) which can be more likely to make it onto this listing quickly—names like Hampden, Bielle, and others. Different productions stay fairly poor although, particularly some ‘new manufacturers’. |
| Distinctive Cognacs and Armagnacs There’s a good variety of cognacs and armagnacs featured, however this isn’t absolutely consultant since we are inclined to obtain or retrieve solely the easiest examples—and even then, not all of them. Not like with whiskies and rums, we not often style the extra on a regular basis choices in these classes. Life is brief and valuable. |
| Except for that, and extra typically: We gained’t harp on about it, however using alien casks—and the “Doritos technique”—is turning into much more widespread, as most second-hand wine casks are actually fairly cheap. It’s value noting that some distilleries now focus nearly solely on finishings—whether or not in purple wine casks, mizunara, STR casks, or absolutely anything else you’ll be able to consider. More and more, and in contrast to what occurs in different classes reminiscent of cognac, whisky producers are clearly prioritising age statements first utilizing ‘any lazy casks’ after which simply flavouring their distillates earlier than releasing them. Sadly, we’re beginning to see this pattern seem in rum as properly… I need to admit we’re getting uninterested in receiving press releases saying a so-called world-changing innovation—a brand new expression completed in mizunara! Wow! |
| The waves of latest distilleries proceed—however the tide retains going out I imagine that high quality would be the key throughout these instances of low tide. The numbers have been alarming in 2024, however we gained’t repeat or analyse them as everybody else has already accomplished, generally in a reasonably sardonic method—we’ve seen numerous schadenfreude. You may rely on us to help, inside our modest means, those that select to give attention to high quality. That stated, some youthful producers who spotlight their moral, native and environmentally pleasant approaches (as all of them appear to do, to be truthful) might want to align their actions with their claims. |
| By the best way There are some new, extremely “branded” names, like SirDavis or Eminente, which aren’t as dangerous in tasting as whisky geeks had feared. This marks a change from simply three years in the past, when many believed that solely branding, packaging, and low-cost storytelling mattered. Who is aware of—Beyoncé’s whisky won’t turn into only a buy-once bottle in any case (S., you’ve outdone your self as soon as once more!) I even suppose we’ll find yourself tasting SirDavis in 2025—simply think about that! |
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| Okay, good… |
| Just a few phrases in regards to the market, from my very modest perspective (I simply couldn’t resist). I wrote 99% of this fairly just a few weeks in the past and had by no means revealed it—maybe I ought to have caught with that call in any case. Learn provided that it’s essential to, |
| Certainly social media, boards, blogs, vlogs, and podcasts are brimming with discussions in regards to the state of the whisky market, and spirits basically, particularly for the reason that Scotch Whisky Affiliation launched its newest figures (exports for the primary half of 2024: -18% in worth, -10% in quantity in comparison with the primary half of 2023, which additionally signifies value pressures). It is even worse in the event you take the primary 9 months into consideration – in actual fact, we don’t wish to know. . |
| The scenario varies throughout totally different markets, and commentators supply a variety of causes, together with: post-Covid results, inflationary spirals resulting in a slowdown, a shift in direction of frugality, the fragility of previously rising markets, developments in direction of modesty, world nervousness, extreme premiumisation, declining alcohol consumption amongst youthful folks, the rise of different substances which supposedly ‘make you drop some pounds reasonably than acquire it’ – or so I’ve even heard, well being considerations, a requirement for transparency on environmental influence, rejection of greenwashing, the weariness of sure ideas and market positions, over-industrialisation, short-termism, growing mixing/ending with different wines and spirits (bastardisation of the product), native markets favouring regional choices, a extremely fragmented provide, unrestrained branding however globally equivalent model visions, homogenisation of kinds resulting in the lack of what used to make manufacturers and distilleries distinctive, rising energy of the secondary market, the fetishisation of previous bottles by fans (buffered market), lack of qualitative markers (an age assertion can’t get replaced by a pretend crystal decanter), proliferation of product references, and the pure lengthy and medium-term cycles inherent to the class, to call however just a few. Sufficient already! |
| Was this predictable, did we see it coming? We are able to at all times say sure, in fact, and declare that individuals had been speaking a couple of “bubble burst” for years, however hindsight makes everybody a genius. Now it’s true that we had already talked about all this right here on 1st January 2024—how we want we had been unsuitable! In any case, it appears to me that, over the long run and in broad strokes, the phases of all this might be outlined as follows. Keep in mind, that is actually only a tough, fast, and extremely private tackle the so-called “ages” that the business itself has highlighted (particularly the Age of Innocence, in fact): |
| Our 5 Ages of malt whisky: |
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| Keys, I feel: training, affordable transparency, authenticity, confirmed high quality, product over branding, new belief. |
| Let’s hope this isn’t simply wishful pondering. |
| We have been too lengthy once more. |
| Pleased New 12 months, hugs and peace! |
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Wrapping up 2024 |
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Concern not, we’ll at all times keep on with our easy, descriptive, and anti-clickbait headlines. To be sincere, we will’t fairly stand those utilized by a few of the reasonably humorous – and interesting – new of us on YouTube, alongside the traces of “Is This Actually the Finest Glen Grant within the World??? Click on Now to Discover Out How This Bottle Practically Poisoned Me!!!” |
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Proper, to recuperate we’re quickly going to have an outstanding vertical tasting of Glen Grant, together with many official bottlings from the period when the distillery was on the very high of its sport, earlier than progressively turning into just a bit extra extraordinary. For now, we needed to get pleasure from two or three latest high-quality impartial bottlings (or possibly 4) earlier than this unusual yr ends. French journal advert for Glen Grant, early Nineteen Nineties, ‘A color of Scotland that stands out from the herd.’ Proper. Glen Grant additionally showcased ‘A lighter color, a purer style.’ In these instances of No/Low drinks, this sort of argument may properly make a comeback. |
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Glen Grant 14 yo 2009/2024 (56.9%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Selection, Kirsch Import Germany, refill sherry hogshead, cask #900927, 269 bottles) Color: mild gold. Nostril: loads of nougat, acacia honey, Earl Gray tea and brioche dough, adopted by just a few walnut skins and a contact of pine resin. A playful trace of one thing barely lactic, like vanilla custard. With water: tomato leaves, ferns, carrot tops, and baker’s yeast… This child appears reasonably untameable. Mouth (neat): good, {powerful}, barely candy, then more and more bitter and natural, with cherry stems, thyme infusion, inexperienced pepper, and cardamom… It clearly cries out for water, now Glen Grant usually swims like a champion. With water: a lot, a lot better now, that includes orange pastilles, dried raisins, cloves, and a contact of ras-el-hanout. End: reasonably lengthy, leaning as soon as extra in direction of infusions and teas, however all is properly. A barely extra chocolatey aftertaste. Feedback: this stressed child is a bit in all places, which is kind of entertaining. With persistence and water, you’ll tame it. SGP:561 – 85 factors. |
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Glen Grant 21 yo 2003/2024 (53.3%, Royal Mile Whiskies, sherry hogshead, cask #59894, 181 bottles) RMW have had some fab whiskies this yr – ooh that Springbank. One wouldn’t count on this GG to be of the identical calibre, however you by no means know. Color: mild gold. Nostril: wait, what’s this? We discover right here that very specific mineral type paying homage to the ‘pale’ Glen Grants distilled within the Fifties! I swear! Plus, marrow, stearin, cement mud, and paraffin oil… Might somebody clarify this? With water: mosses, ferns, and fig leaves, even a bit tar and clear mud. So deliciously old-school, let’s say Harry Lauder-esque. Virtually. Mouth (neat): a contact of ‘high quality’ retsina at first, loads of inexperienced pepper and yellow capsicum, pine sap, then a touch of pad Thai and a chalky, nearly metallic edge, rounded out with apples and lime. Very curious to see what water will do to it. With water: growth, all the pieces folds into place—lemon, mint, inexperienced olives, candied angelica. Wonderful. End: lengthy and far more compact and cleaner. Juicy Fruit Gum. Feedback: what an journey. Its solely flaw is that it’ll demand time. Certainly, each time. SGP:561 – 88 factors. |
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Glen Grant 20 yo 2003/2024 ‘100°proof’ (57.1%, Whisky Sponge, Decadent Drinks, #98, 1st fill barrel, 169 bottles) The label right here displays the love – and rightly so – that ex-Mr Sponge holds for previous Glen Grant bottlings. Color: mild previous. Nostril: ah sure, rapeseed and sunflower oils, bruised apples, previous copper objects (not essentially a copper canine), recent concrete, and half-burnt church candles—spot on. With water: yeasty notes emerge, with hints of toasted bread and bottled lemon juice. Mouth (neat): considerably more energizing and extra citrusy than the RMW, although sure elements really feel comparable (citrus, sap). Like biting right into a scented orange candle sprinkled with pink pepper, or one thing alongside these traces. With water: oh, yellow peaches and apricots! That’s unbeatable in line with our personal dogma. End: lengthy, fruity but elegant, with a sure restraint. I do know, that doesn’t imply a lot. A contact of pine sap lingers within the aftertaste, including a slight bitterness. Feedback: flirting with 90 factors. Let’s name it 89.49, although we at all times spherical to the closest complete quantity. SGP:651 – 89 factors. |
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Glen Grant 20 yo 2003/2024 (58.9%, Single Cask Nation, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #192741, 165 bottles) Color: white wine. Nostril: it could appear these 2003s are reasonably explosive, and right here now we have a fair livelier model, with only a contact of recent butter alongside inexperienced, white, yellow, and purple apples in all their types, together with tarte tatin. Beautiful rooty touches—celery, radish, beetroot… With water: and right here come the chalk and paraffin! Mouth (neat): nearly a carbon copy of the Sponge, however greener, nearly acidic. Love this, as they often say, it enables you to rely your vertebrae because it goes down, making certain all the pieces’s in place. The worst half is we actually adore it. Nice stress! With water: the fruits come bursting out—inexperienced melon, white peaches, inexperienced bananas, and naturally, apples of each form. End: lengthy and taut, but additionally with just a few unique fruits—ardour fruit and lime. Feedback: these gifted independents actually do a superb job with their alternatives. SGP:561 – 88 factors. |
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Glen Grant 25 yo 1998/2023 (50%, Hunter Laing, twenty fifth Anniversary of the Outdated Malt Casks, refill barrel) These replica-style bottles haven’t been round for very lengthy. In truth, it’s not very form—do they even realise the impact this distinctive livery has on us each time we see it? It brings to thoughts Ardbeg 1975 ‘702’ or ‘Brorageddon’; watch out for coronary heart palpitations! Color: pale gold. Nostril: oh, vegetable oils, pollens, and ripe apples. It’s hyper-precise and easily good—you don’t want something extra. With water: nothing extra, and that’s completely fantastic. Maybe a faint contact of paint. Mouth (neat): easy but wonderful. Ripe apples, ripe pears, a touch of soppy paprika, comfortable honey, and chamomile. With water: completely ‘Western’ fruits—orchard fruits, for instance greengages, whose close to disappearance from our native markets stays an awesome disgrace. End: superbly lengthy, with comparable notes and only a trace of wax. Feedback: an impressive Glen Grant, ‘regular’ with all the pieces that’s most pleasurable about normality (that’s not very woke, S.). SGP:551 – 87 factors. |
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For sure, we hadn’t deliberate on tasting fairly so many. However since we’re at it, and as that is the final whisky tasting of 2024, let’s wrap up this little session with one of many ‘fathers’ of contemporary impartial bottling, in the event you don’t thoughts… |
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Glen Grant 21 yo 1963/1984 (46%, Samaroli, R.W. Duthie, sherry wooden, 480 bottles) The pleasant Silvano Samaroli defined, on the again label, that this Glen Grant was distilled earlier than the distillery expanded from 4 to six stills in 1973 and from 6 to 10 stills in 1977. Unusually, it appears they’ve 8 stills now—maybe they bought 2 to Macallan (simply joking!). In any case, even again then, Samaroli didn’t color his whiskies with caramel or chill-filter them, which could clarify this… Color: hazy pale gold, nearly opaque. Nostril: metallic polish, luxurious shoe polish, plasticine, and wheat beer dominate at first, earlier than being joined by rutabagas, parsnips, and different so-called ‘forgotten’ greens. Outdated apples and lemon zest then brighten issues up. A stunning metallic contact typical of previous Cadenhead’s, although please word—this was no screw cap just like the ‘dumpies’. Mouth: straight right into a forest, with mosses, mushrooms, resins, and saps (birch, fir). The ever-present apples then take over in essentially the most stunning method, accompanied by pollens and floral syrups (mullein). You do sense a tiny little bit of fatigue after 40 years in bottle, like an previous white wine of fantastic pedigree, however it by no means falters. End: medium to brief, with a sudden burst of small citrus fruits that deliver all the pieces again into stability. How amusing! Bergamots dominate the aftertaste. Feedback: a captivating fragility that reminds us whisky is a dwelling factor (what?). But some elements additionally recall these magnificent previous official bottlings we’ll be tasting in just a few weeks, as promised. SGP:562 – 90 factors. |
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Serge’s Non-Awards This is a short rundown of my high picks from the roughly 1,400 whiskies and different spirits I sampled in 2024, persevering with our annual custom. Do not take it too severely; I discover these lists are sometimes extra of a routine train than something really significant—until they’re sponsored, then they serve a advertising and marketing goal. However right here we go once more… |
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Favorite latest bottling |
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Port Ellen 44 yo 1978/2023 ‘Gemini Unique Cask’ (54.9%, OB, European oak butts, 274 bottles, 2024) WF 95 Port Ellen, in fact, with its brand-new and, shall we embrace, extremely aesthetic distillery. We may simply as simply have chosen the latest Brora 1977 ‘Untold Depths’, which we additionally scored 95/100, however Brora already gained in 2023, so… A 3rd and really severe contender for this title is the Glen Grant 1958 ‘Mr George Legacy Fourth Version’ from Gordon & MacPhail. Admittedly, all these bottles are horrendously costly—I’m properly conscious of that—however not less than their contents signify the easiest Scotland has to supply in the meanwhile. IMHO, as we used to say. |
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Bowmore 1955/1974 ‘For twelfth September 1974’ (unknown ABV, OB, 100 half jugs) WF 96 We tasted this marvel as soon as once more, this time from a unique decanter than these we had beforehand sampled, all in help of our shared noble trigger. Relaxation assured, we gained’t elaborate additional—simply so as to add that one other Bowmore, the 1969/1978 for Fecchio & Frassa at G.L.58, got here very, very shut. |
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Favorite bang on your buck |
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François Voyer ‘Temps Magique Lot 19.20’ (43.8%, Malternative Belgium, Grande Champagne, 2024) WF 93 A fully unimaginable cognac from Malternative Belgium, which does a very exceptional job choosing previous cognacs. Even when it does irk us a bit to see our pricey Belgian associates considerably diverting these nice French spirits (simply teasing, in fact), it’s an excellent reminder for us in France to take extra curiosity in what we produce! A number of different cognac homes additionally rank very extremely—Vallein Tercinier, JL Pasquet, Famille Cabanne, Tiffon, and others. In truth, we had a Cabanne that scored 94, however it was bottled in 2023. |
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The Nikka ‘9 Many years’ (48%, OB, ninetieth Anniversary Restricted, premium blended whisky, 2024) WF 92 I really feel that 2024 has marked the triumphant return of Japanese whiskies, following a number of years considerably marred by overpriced NAS malts and so-called Japanese whiskies sourced overseas and merely bottled within the Land of the Rising Solar. We’ve tasted some distinctive Yamazaki and Hakushu, for instance—to not point out the intergalactic Chichibus ex-bourbons, Mars, and these spectacular new malts like Shizuoka that proceed to amaze us. All of this leads us to focus on a… mix—however not simply any mix. This Nikka was merely beautiful! |
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Barcelo ‘Gran Anejo’ (37.5%, OB, Dominican Republic, +/-2023) WF 25 Folks usually make enjoyable of rums boosted with sugar (now labelled as spirit drinks in Europe), however not less than these have some flavour (terrible, however flavour nonetheless). In distinction, this poor little Barceló, regardless of being carbon-neutral, felt emptier than a jeroboam of Bollinger after a New 12 months’s Eve celebration. One other contender is El Ron Prohibido 15 yo ‘Gran Reserva’ from Mexico, which actually ought to stay ‘prohibido’ (WF 25). Then there are these whiskies sourced from inconceivable nations and bought at rock-bottom costs in supermarkets, masquerading as Scotch. Yuk. |
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Proper tomorrow we’ll attempt to publish an entire listing of all of the 100 and thirty-three 92 factors + we have tasted in 2024, Angus and myself, probably with feedback if Bollinger’s Jeroboam permits us, |
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WF’s Little Duos, at present valuable previous Bunnahabhain plus apéritif |
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(Remembering John MacLellan) |
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| We may have a lot extra Bunnahabhains initially of subsequent yr, however for now, we needed to have fun the top of the yr with two very prestigious previous bottlings, preceded by an aperitif that shouldn’t be too dangerous both. (Warehouse tasting, early 2000s, WF Archive) |
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Bunnahabhain 21 yo ‘2024 Cask Energy Version’ (53.6%, OB, oloroso + 21 months Pedro Ximenez cask end, 2682 bottles) What quantity of latest Scottish malts at the moment are PX-finished? One reasonably will get the impression we’re nearing 50%, which should be splendid information for Andalusian coopers (Jerez, Huelva, Montilla, Malaga). That stated, it does go away us more and more reflective about what Scottish distillers really consider their ‘pure’ merchandise and the casks they make use of for brand spanking new fillings. Nonetheless, there are, in fact, some wonderful PX finishes, particularly when not from first-fill casks. Color: amber. Nostril: it opens with cedarwood, pencil shavings and gum arabic, earlier than shifting in direction of sultanas, dried figs and even a touch of strawberry jam made with brown sugar. One can’t deny that that is definitely trendy, with noticeable recent oak, however very properly executed. With water: chocolate and occasional, with cedarwood nonetheless taking the lead. Mouth (neat): drier than the nostril urged, but additionally far spicier, that includes a mixture of cinnamon, pepper, ginger and nutmeg that immediately evokes recent oak as soon as extra. Sultanas and dried figs comply with however fail to totally masks the pronounced woodiness. With water: comparable remarks. Loads of liquorice wooden, turmeric and cardamom. End: very lengthy and nonetheless intensely spicy. Pink pepper, curry and darkish chocolate, with a contact of orange zest within the aftertaste. Feedback: decidedly trendy and cask-driven, however definitely very properly made. SGP:372 – 85 factors. |
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The subsequent two must be much less ‘trendy’… |
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Bunnahabhain 35 yo 1966/2002 (46.1%, OB, Feis Ile 2002, sherry, cask #4379, 401 bottles) That is the primary time we’re formally tasting this previous expression, relationship again to the times when Islay Competition guests had entry to unique previous whiskies at very affordable costs (and never the opposite method spherical, ha). Observe that our benchmark stays the 1968 ‘Auld Acquaintance’. Color: mahogany/espresso. Nostril: I’m instantly transported to the previous, again to warehouse excursions with John MacLellan, bung-puller and valinch in hand. What reminiscences! At any price, this can be a wealthy and weighty sherry on the nostril, evoking the impression of nosing a really previous ‘V.O.R.S.’, with an explosion of prunes and currants. Pipe tobacco, roasted pecans, triple sec and crème de menthe comply with. A powerful nostril, fairly direct, with even fewer flaws than a Botticelli. Mouth: drier, focusing extra on aged walnuts, unsweetened espresso and really darkish chocolate, earlier than transferring in direction of more and more great notes of bitters of all types. It turns barely drying, however this nearly turns into a constructive trait on this context. Chestnut honey brings some sweetness again after a couple of minute. End: pretty lengthy, very elegantly dry but mild directly. Blackberry and blueberry jam linger, with a peppermint and Christmas cake aftertaste (higher use this descriptor whereas it’s nonetheless in season). Feedback: I really feel this comes very near the stupendous Auld Acquaintance. I additionally suppose it’s time we revisit the latter quickly—it’s excessive time to re-check a few of our benchmarks. Sensible. SGP:651 – 93 factors. |
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Bunnahabhain 35 yo 1965/2001 (53.9%, OB, Feis Ile 2001, sherry, cask #7159, 594 bottles) Identical feedback in regards to the Islay Competition, proper. I imagine this child, just like the earlier one, got here from real sherry butts reasonably than casks custom-made and seasoned for the whisky business. That’s definitely what one may observe in Bunnahabhain’s warehouses on the time, I imply within the very early 2000s. Color: deep gold—not ‘espresso’ this time. Nostril: magnificent, although much less dominated by sherry, making it more energizing, nearly barely maritime (seaweed, brine), earlier than leaning extra in direction of orange marmalade and cherry liqueur. A faintly earthy contact is kind of excellent, adopted by tobacco and a touch of latest leather-based. Pistachio nougat. With water: nearly like an previous cognac now, with honey and splendidly ripe, juicy winery peaches. Mouth (neat): the sherry comes by way of extra strongly, as do the spices, making it really feel barely – however superbly – rustic at this stage regardless of great citrus and honey notes. Fairly a little bit of peppermint emerges later. With water: and there it’s, tamed and mild as a lamb, with sultanas, loads of candied fruits, and a stunning cup of tea with darkish chocolate. End: pretty lengthy and spicier, with occasional faint natural touches. Liquorice with mint lingers within the aftertaste. Feedback: this splendid dram could have suffered ever so barely in comparison with the totally supersonic 1966. Fond reminiscences of John MacLellan. SGP:551 – 92 factors. |
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A phrase of warning Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are accomplished from the perspective of a malt whisky fanatic who, what’s extra, is aboslutely not an skilled in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or some other spirits. Thanks – and peace! |
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Our ultimate rums of 2024 |
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A number of roughly easy-going rums for this very finish of the yr, really chosen at random however beginning with two or three aperitifs with out an excessive amount of ambition. Christmas in Martinique is even higher than elsewhere! (France-Antilles Martinique) |
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Doble 9 15 yo ‘Anejo’ (38%, OB, Cuba, +/-2024) An amusing bottle adorned round its neck with a domino that includes a double 9, a nod to the standard Cuban domino sport. I’ve by no means encountered this pretty new model in Cuba, however the Cuban authorities’s authentication label does seem, properly, genuine, even when it appears this rum was blended and bottled within the Dominican Republic after having been produced in Cuba. The bottling power of 38% stays only a tad worrying… Color: pale gold. Nostril: it doesn’t fairly really feel its supposed 15 years and comes throughout as extraordinarily mild, providing a distinctly Cuban contact (recent hay, as an illustration) together with a touch of lime. It’s all reasonably inoffensive. Mouth: there’s a faint sweetness, although it’s exhausting to inform if it’s been boosted, resting on a barely natural base. Nonetheless very mild, not disagreeable, with refined hints of coconut and immediate espresso. End: very brief, with orange liqueur lingering within the aftertaste. Feedback: it’s actually fairly respectable, I feel. SGP:330 – 70 factors. |
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Abuelo XII anos ‘Three Angels’ (43%, Panama, +/-2024) The Abuelo XII ‘Two Oaks’ was reasonably common and pretty laden with sugar three years in the past (WF 60). This ‘Three Angels’ version was partially aged below the warehouse roofs, the place temperatures are at all times greater and thus the angels’ share extra important (15% per yr, they are saying, however did the casks really spend not less than a yr below the roofs?). The 43% ABV is an effective signal. Color: amber brown. Nostril: I fairly like this—it’s reasonably dry, providing notes of espresso, darkish chocolate, black tea, burnt wooden, roasted chestnuts, and even hints of menthol and liquorice. To this point, so good. Mouth: there’s some sugar and molasses, however not excessively so, accompanied by molasses honey and a contact of espresso liqueur. Roasted hazelnuts, darkish raisins, and even a faint muscat-like word seem. End: lengthy, definitely candy however with out an excessive amount of extra this time. Feedback: it’s value noting that, below EU guidelines, a spirit can not be labelled as ‘rum’ if it exceeds 20 grams of added sugar per litre. I feel this reasonably good Abuelo stays inside that restrict, though the sugar stays noticeable. Miles forward of the sooner ‘Two Casks’. SGP:650 – 75 factors. |
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Navy Island Jamaica ‘XO Reserve’ (40%, Navy Island Rum Firm, Jamaican mix, +/-2024) This child at 40% ABV and with out an age assertion is reasonably dear (€45), however then once more, it’s a mix of ‘pot nonetheless’ Hampden, Monymusk, and Worthy Park. So, ultimately, it’s not that costly, is it. Color: mild gold. Nostril: it jogs my memory of the early Mezan blends. Surprisingly mild however in no way ‘empty’, that includes carbon paper, mild brine, and ultra-ripe fruits (these well-known pineapples ‘teetering on the sting of the street’ as we are saying in French), together with a faint contact of wooden varnish. It whispers, however what it says is gorgeous. Mouth: equally mild however not empty—let’s say ‘pastel’. Good salinity, two or three capers, a little bit of tar and salmiak, then a small piece of tarte tatin. Gentle pepper. End: not very lengthy, in fact, however acceptable. Bits of pineapple in brine? Do these exist? Feedback: good for introducing your visitors to Jamaican rums with out instantly forcing them to gulp down Hampden SGP:642 – 85 factors. |
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Bielle 2015/2024 (54.9%, Swell de Spirits x Inter Caves, Pop’ collection, Marie-Galante) Bielle is Bielle (properly, you’ve outdone your self, S.) This one spent 7 years on Marie-Galante earlier than crusing to France in 2022 aboard the two-masted schooner ‘Avontuur’. Look her up on Google—it’s a fantastic ship. Color: vivid straw. Nostril: it’s unmistakably Bielle, with these aniseed notes mingling with recent cane and putty. Magnificently recent—maybe the Atlantic crossing on a crusing ship additional amplified that impression. With water: even prettier, with hints of previous gas oil, eucalyptus, extra anise, and mint. Mouth (neat): that medicinal edge additionally evokes sure artisanal cachaças (did the schooner take a detour through Brazil?), together with lemon, recent cane, pink grapefruit, and a contact of fennel. A rum like no different. With water: citron liqueur, candied cherries, and angelica. End: not particularly lengthy however fantastically refreshing. Impressions of putty and anise return within the aftertaste, adopted by lemon and pepper. Feedback: totally charming, this Bielle. Plus, pouring it to associates permits you to recount the story of the schooner, its wind generators, photo voltaic panels, and all that. An superior beast. SGP:562 – 90 factors. |
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Foursquare 15 yo 2006/2022 (59.1%, Whisky AGE, barrel, #15, 231 bottles) It’s exhausting to think about something going unsuitable right here, although one may nonetheless dream of a pure pot nonetheless FS. That stated, the label clearly specifies that is the standard self-blend of column and pot nonetheless. Color: straw. Nostril: I’m not completely positive what number of totally different mixtures they experiment with when it comes to percentages of the 2 kinds, however right here the pot nonetheless appears to take the lead, leaving the lighter column rum within the background. I’m getting chalk, soot, even a contact of saltpetre, grape seed oil, pistachio, and praline… Ultimately, it’s nonetheless pretty elegant, even delicate. With water: hints of recent cake, fougasse, scones, orange cake, and ginger cookies… Mouth (neat): that well-known orange marmalade with cane syrup and inexperienced and pink peppercorns. No complaints right here. With water: not a lot evolution, however that’s completely fantastic. Extra recent cane juice and maybe even a small glass of umeshu. End: medium size, that includes pu-ehr tea and only a contact of turmeric. Vanilla and a little bit of coconut linger within the aftertaste, together with one wee dried fig. Feedback: ultimately, that is fairly a delicate Foursquare, however/and it’s wonderful. SGP:551 – 88 factors. |
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Uitvlugt Port Mourant 1999/2024 (47.1%, The Whisky Jury, Guyana, refill barrel, cask #88, 173 bottles) It’s value remembering that 1999 was the ultimate yr for Uitvlugt at first was transferred to Diamond, together with the very previous Port Mourant nonetheless, which had first been at Albion earlier than being moved to Uitvlugt. Let’s say it once more, please repeat—the nonetheless from… Color: gold. Nostril: monstrously stunning, because the comparatively low bottling power already hinted. Extraordinary notes of recent rubber, liquorice, overripe mangoes, oysters, olives, Bakelite, engine oil, and oil paint in each conceivable color (actually?), plus linoleum… Mouth: that is completely maddening. An ideal mixture of mango, tar, liquorice, and seaweed. And numerous different nuances, however we don’t have all day… End: lengthy, with salinity turning into much more pronounced. The mango and different parts echo within the aftertaste, which is simply barely astringent total. Pretty robust pepper. Feedback: very, very maddening. SGP:463 – 91 factors. |
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Enmore 26 yo 1998/2024 ‘EHP’ (49.3%, WFRC & WDC, Dos Deliquentes, 204 bottles) Ex-wooden 2-column Coffey nonetheless (nonetheless a thriller to this humble whisky geek) with ageing in bourbon, armagnac, and refill rum casks—the entire course of stays much more mysterious to me. Sure, EHP means Enmore. I suppose we’d higher give attention to the liquid in the event you don’t thoughts… Color: gold. Nostril: the softest of the Guyanese bunch, that includes loads of yellow flowers and all types of desserts, notably coconut balls and vanilla sponge, adopted by praline and English tea ‘with a splash of milk’. Actually very civilised. Beautiful little earthy touches emerge subsequent. Mouth: an uncommon profile combining coconut and vanilla sweetness with hints of glue and solvent, plus a yeasty background. End: medium size, turning alternately acetic and extra targeted on cane and little fruity sweets. Feedback: very exhausting to comply with the Port Mourant—I in all probability ought to have tasted this primary, however I adopted the order of bottling strengths. Nonetheless wonderful, although I feel this one is for über-geeks and Demerara rum students. In brief, being softer doesn’t imply it must be handed to only anybody. Very exhausting to attain, as my rum information stops right here. SGP:641 – 85 factors (to be taken with a big pinch of salt). |
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Let’s liven issues up a bit… |
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Hampden 2023/2024 (63.14%, The Colors of Rum for 13. German Rum Competition, Jamaica) Some DOK aged in ex-PX, oloroso, and bourbon. What a humorous joke—who’s going to note the varied casks in a DOK at 63%? Sorry, 63.14%. DOK, as a reminder, means 1,500 to 1,700 gr ester/HLPA. And this one’s obtained loads of that ‘A’, so loads of esters. Proper then, let’s say our prayers and brace ourselves… Color: gold. Nostril: let’s be sincere—our olfactory bulb, which processes scent alerts from receptor neurons in our nasal cavity, shortly filters out something deemed ‘extreme’. That’s why we generally discover Octomore ‘not so peaty’ or DOK ‘not so acetic/tarry’. In brief, it’s only a beautiful Hampden. With water: I really feel like you possibly can drown this in Vittel (our official water—we’re nonetheless unpaid, thoughts you) and it wouldn’t change a factor. Perhaps hints of burning tyres or a failed burnout by a novice Harley rider. Mouth (neat): excellent sharpness, as if consuming unripe salted olives in absurd portions whereas sipping Tesla brake fluid. Properly, I think about. With water: right here comes the lemon, inexperienced pepper, salted liquorice, and so forth. End: very lengthy, although finally barely dominated by rubber. Feedback: completely insane. SGP:475 – 88 factors. |
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Come on, one final one which ‘may’ stand as much as this totally infernal Germanic DOK… |
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Secret Jamaican Distillery 9 yo 2012/2022 (62%, Dràm Mor, bourbon barrel, cask #072, 198 bottles) Typically, these secret Jamaicans are Worthy Park, although in fact there’s no proof. Color: full gold. Nostril: ultra-ripe unique fruits, hints of ammonia and acetone, artichokes, olives, pipe tobacco, crushed gravel, and slate. General, the construction feels finer and fruitier than a few of the different well-known Jamaicans, which lean a bit extra in direction of ‘doom metallic’ than WP’s traditional exhausting rock (what?). Okay, not Appleton. With water: oh, scallops cooked in Noilly with little Chinese language mushrooms. And there you have got it—I’ve made myself hungry. Mouth (neat): merely good. Equal elements citrus juice and seawater. Wonderful, exact, very WP. With water: intensely maritime and lemony earlier than tar and extremely concentrated molasses take over. End: nearly spicy, thick, and peppery. Fairly enjoyable. Sudden notes of flambéed and salted bananas seem within the aftertaste. Feedback: a full of life little Jamaican with a lot to say—on the very least. SGP:563 – 88 factors. |
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4 younger indie Tamnavulin |
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In the course of the festive season, we historically get pleasure from well-known names, however we additionally make a degree of together with lesser-known distilleries—bear in mind, certainly one of our mottos is “little names, large whiskies”, though we will’t declare to have absolute proof of that, thoughts you. At this time, we’ll be tasting Tamnavulin from Speyside, which, sadly, we don’t pattern fairly often. Over all these years, we’ve formally tasted solely about thirty of them—simply to provide you an thought. It’s true that it has been reasonably quiet, albeit intermittently, and was solely relaunched fairly not too long ago, in 2007. |
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Tamnavulin 10 yo 2013/2024 (55.3%, Dràm Mor, refill bourbon, cask #110915, 225 bottles) Color: white wine. Nostril: completely good, damp chalk, grist, inexperienced apples and bitter cherries, then lemon and a touch of candle wax. With water: that recent new jumper vibe, plus paraffin and black cleaning soap. Mouth (neat): the purity of a recent and invigorating younger malt, no frills, barely rustic however crammed stuffed with fruit peels and lime, the entire turning into more and more natural and taut. No mercy given, and none required. With water: small white and yellow fruits awaken, white currants, inexperienced pear, and pepper (inexperienced and gray) … End: lengthy, natural, nearly sharp. A great deal of pepper. Feedback: pretty brutal, however one gladly yields to its charms. What one may name a pure wee malt, good on your hipflask (the one with the cranium and the Indian Bikes brand). SGP:361 – 84 factors. |
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Tamnavulin 10 yo 2013/2024 (56.6%, James Eadie, UK unique, 1st fill Malaga hogshead, cask #373073) Malaga! One goals of PX seco, the nice wine of Malaga in our view, reasonably than the thicker and sweeter concoctions (although a few of these are wonderful too). Color: gold. Nostril: in any case, this was a circumspect ending, and we’re not buried below three tonnes of raisins. Fairly the other, as apples take the lead as soon as extra, together with chalk, limestone, cake, and some recent walnuts lurking within the background. With water: the chalk, grist, and recent wool return. This PX was very well-raised. Mouth (neat): there’s a contact of walnut cake, however it’s the spices that take centre stage, with inexperienced pepper and orange peel. Cinnamon mints. With water: extra sherriness (or reasonably, malaganess) emerges, with raisins and bay leaves becoming a member of the walnuts. End: lengthy, now barely bitter. Feedback: on your second hipflask (the one with the Accomplice flag and the Harley Davidson brand). SGP:361 – 84 factors. |
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Tamnavulin 12 yo 2011/2023 (56.8%, Tri Carragh, 1st Fill PX Sherry Hogshead, 314 bottles) Color: white wine. Very pale for a 1st fill PX. Nostril: maybe this was seco? Right here we lean extra in direction of paraffin, plasticine, recent rubber, and even sulphur (in powder kind, not burnt). I fairly like this ‘industrial’ type. With water: we drift again in direction of the type of the earlier dram, with recent walnuts rising together with citrus peels. Mouth (neat): odd, even deviant, with a great deal of lemon and, as soon as once more, inexperienced pepper. A prickly, nearly fizzy edge (ginger tonic) and a contact of gin, even with a soapy trace. Properly, I reasonably prefer it—it’s very uncommon. With water: lovable ginger tonic with lemon. I gained’t title the model, as I by no means did obtain the keys to that Dubai penthouse I used to be promised. End: lengthy, taut like a fantastic cool-climate Chardonnay. The aftertaste turns extra natural and bitter (ouch, a degree off there). Feedback: it actually looks like PX seco, bone-dry and sharp as a whip. I reasonably adore it. SGP:361 – 86 factors. |
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Tamnavulin 13 yo 2010/2023 (57.6%, Connoisseurs Dram, DH World Wine Ltd, 1st fill oloroso, cask #800768, 400 bottles) Color: deep gold. Nostril: properly then, that is the softer, extra civilised ex-oloroso model, seemingly essentially the most cake-like, with recent kougelhopf, sponge cake, and even rum baba. Within the background, oranges (marmalade and liqueur) maintain watch. Beautiful nostril. Did I point out blueberry muffins? With water: tobacco, espresso, and walnuts, all typical of oloroso. Mouth (neat): a way more traditional sherry profile, with bitter oranges on high and loads of pepper and nutmeg. It’s {powerful}. With water: superb, regardless of a contact of saponification that makes you wait 10 minutes (as soapy notes seem after which fade) … 10 minutes… and there now we have it, a splendid oloroso loaded with walnuts, mustard, pepper, tobacco, and reasonably darkish chocolate. End: lengthy and much more peppery and bitter. However the oranges maintain watch, as they at all times do. Feedback: a superb success, although as soon as once more, it’s extra of a younger malt for the hipflask than on your Riedel Vinum glass (the one designed the wrong way up, with the edges turned outward—what a wierd thought!). SGP:361 – 87 factors. |
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Observe that the 4 abstract fragrant profiles (SGP) have been equivalent at present. |
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WF’s Little Duos, at present high indie Brackla |
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I do know, we tasted Brackla not way back, however many indies are clear and never too smothered by some inconceivable wine, just like the, er, properly, you understand which of them I imply. Once you apply finishings throughout your total vary, it’s nonetheless extraordinarily worrying, in my view. Anyway, transferring on since, certainly, there are wonderful younger Brackla among the many Indies in the meanwhile. |
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Royal Brackla 9 yo 2014/2023 (48%, The Single Malts of Scotland, Reserve Casks, Parcel No.12) Color: very pale white wine. Nostril: little to no cask affect, an abundance of citrus fruits, freshly picked apples and pears, hints of liquorice and gentian, then uncooked cake batter, IPA-style beer, and honeysuckle paying homage to a Sauvignon Blanc… Sure, it’s nearly a Sauvignon Blanc. Impeccable nostril, recent, sincere, and simple. Mouth: one other dangerously drinkable malt that ought to hold a warning label. An excellent medley of peppermint, lime, banana cake, and a splash of Jamaican rum (really only a few drops). The primary individual to say ‘mojito’ might be reported to the Drinks Police. End: lengthy, very fruity but extremely refreshing, with that persistent mojito vibe (hoist with my very own petard) earlier than bergamots step in to revive order. Unstoppable. Feedback: completely chiselled, a really severe contender for December’s Bang-For-Your-Buck bottle. SGP:651 – 88 factors. |
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Royal Brackla 2007/2024 (51.7%, Cask Six & Liquid Artwork, 161 bottles) At the very least we might be pretty sure the label—maybe barely unsettling—was designed neither with the assistance of ChatGPT nor Elon Musk’s Grok. One can think about the transient to the designer: ‘1. down a bottle, 2. do a label’. Color: pale white wine. Nostril: I like these notes of… properly… let’s say olive oil and flat-leaf parsley financier, adopted by absolutely ripe orchard fruits. With water: all of the constructing blocks of whisky emerge—malted barley flour, yeasts, even water itself. And loads of apples. Mouth (neat): yet one more palate that proves it’s a sin to masks such a stunning distillate, even when this one is much less emphatically fruity than the 2014. Hints of cherry stems, touches of blackcurrant, and a suggestion of tomato leaves. I believe water will deliver order to those molecules. With water: completely, water is important, revealing a pleasant mixture of liquorice wooden, pears, apples, and white peaches. The tomato leaves? Gone, gone, gone, honey. End: medium size, with a return of the grist. Feedback: the 2014 was speedy, whereas this one calls for extra effort in your half. SGP:561 – 87 factors. |
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Another, this simply in… |
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Royal Brackla 2015/2024 ‘BeeSquadUA’ (46%, WhiskyUA Kyiv, 1st fill sherry, cask #304266, 358 bottles) This very bottling promotes the use and funding of drones for the Ukrainian Military. Drones are cheap, can fight weapons value tens of millions of {dollars}, and infrequently change human troopers, thus saving numerous lives in a battle as terrifying because the one ongoing in Ukraine for practically three years. Color: deep gold. Nostril: a good looking malt–sherry fusion, extraordinarily well-balanced, with out the slightest sense of layering or artificiality. Notes of squash, carrots, recent walnuts, celery, apples, tangerines, beeswax, and marzipan… It’s actually very fairly. Mouth: the sherry’s nutty character takes over now, together with tea, natural infusions, chocolate, and occasional, a contact of mustard, leafy tones, a touch of seawater, even dried seaweed, maybe a splash of Worcester sauce, and a little bit of sesame paste… End: pretty lengthy, with no marked modifications. An especially fantastic dry sherry type. Feedback: Peace! SGP:451 – 88 factors. |
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To buy a bottle or a pallet of this very fantastic Brackla and thus assist in direction of reaching a simply peace in Ukraine—reasonably than contributing to the funding of a brand new jet or Lamborghini SUV (properly, maybe extra seemingly a Vary Rover within the present local weather) for the CEO of some multinational drinks konzern go to the WhiskyUA web site. They’ve already raised over €110K. |
Earlier entries
(archived)
